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Measue that jug in millimeters. 83mm is stock stock bore. The piston will not fit real tight in the jug do to it expanding when heated up. So there should be some play in it, but no excessive. If it smokes constantly then the rings are shot. Thats good theres not scratches or gouges. Also since you have it apart check and see if the rod has alot of play in it.

Going with a 366 is good for power but it will run hotter, so you'll need to do an oil cooler to keep the temps down. If your not worried about power just get a wiesco piston 83.5mm and top end gaskets, and you'll be on your way. Another thing about boring to the max like the 366 is thats the biggest you can go, so the next time it needs rebored the jug will need resleeved which in the long run is more money.....
 
How do i get the piston out ? like off of the arm? it dosnt look like anythings holding it in but the fucker wont come off lol and is it suppose to slide back and forth ?
 
there is a metal ring holding the piston pin in you must remove that then you can tap the pin out
 
Not to discredit anyone that has already replied.

Yes, first step is to get a Manuel. If you bore it, you hone it as well, it smooths things out. You can get a bore and sleeve it in order to go back to stock if your jug is outta whack. How do your valves look like? If you have a lot of carbon buildup on your piston, I bet your vales could afford to be reseated as well.

Smoking isn't necessarily a rings issue. Bad or worn valve seals will make your quad smoke as well.

Just do some research and decide what exactly you want to do and how much you wanna spend. Once you get en idea what you want to do/how big you wanna go, we can give you better advice.

Have fun with the rebuild.
 
Yeah I think a Clymer is the first purchase anyone with a warrior should make, or a similar book for other ATV's quads and even cars and trucks anything that's mechanical. Having a good repair manual can save TONS of time and headaches.
 
yaaa, iv got a manual downloaded on my pc, i know i should get the real deal but idk if i wanna spend 30 bucks on one. and i just got my piston off and idk why i thought it didnt fit well in the sleeve because now that i have it all out i placeed it next to the jug and it fits perfect exept for the ..rings? idk if thats what there called but i think it is, anyway they stop it from going in because its like there to big for the piston. and iv got another LARGE problem ill post a pic of, and i reallly hope theres a solution
 

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I kinda wanna stay around the low side of 150 bucks on a piston kit.. i know that sounds cheep..sorry and i think i want like 60 over? i dont wanna go too big. So far i just wanna rebuild the top end with a new piston and gaskets, then go from there. i would like to reset the valves and do what ever i can to clean it and have a better chance of it running better but idk how to do all that
 
....If you can't spend 30 bucks on a repair manual idk that you should really should have bought the warrior, or any motor vehicle for that matter.
 
I'm not being an ass, 30 bucks isn't much money though, easily cheaper then an oil change depending on what oil and filter you use.
 
well 30 bucks, shipping and a week for it to get here, while my warrior sits in the garage untouched. by time it gets here ill have what i didnt know figured out, but yes your right. i need one and should get one ill look into it
 
Well the repair manual spells out a lot more then that, like what needs greased and lubed, and what types of grease and lubes to use and so on. It's easily one of the first things anyone should buy. Just changing out the piston is a pretty big job, and things like removing the piston from the crank rod would have been laid out very clearly with nice pictures in there instead of trying to figure it out from reading online.


I'm not sure where you are located, mine took a couple days to get here. Either way man I wasn't trying to be an ass, but when you buy a motorized vehicle there are some expenses, and most times they shouldn't be cut by going cheap on them. Otherwise you'll end up redoing it again later or worse completely destroying your engine and even worse then that injuring you. Doing the work your self can save tons of money as long as it's done properly. And a repair manual makes that much easier.
 
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wield a bolt onto the end of it and back it out that way, that is if you can get some vice grips on it.
 
If its the same manual that is avaliable for download on this site, it has all the same specs as the paper version. Myself I prefer the downloaded one, because I can print off the pages needed and when I get oil on them I can just throw them away.
 
If it's the full manual then I agree that's not a bad thing to use. As long as it's as detailed as the Clymer or similar :)
 
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