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Bummer. I never thought of that... So your basically stuck with the EFI, unless you swap a C4, or 6 in it then?
well yes and no but there both naturally asperated motorsand i can build it up to 300 hp as it sits , but if i did a tranny swap then yes i could get all that and it would be simpler i dont have a kick dowm cable on this tranny and the c6 would need over drive i have 4:11 rear end gears so shes pretty torqy with the 325 ft lbs of torque my motor puts out right now but if my tranny goes the c6 will be put in for sure
 
[/QUATE]Ditch the EFI for a good carburated highrise intake. Rebuild your stock heads, and do a basic rebuild on the motor. Maybe toss some nice forged slugs at it, just to bump the comp a bit.
Then get yourself a good topend kit from comp. http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=CC&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=K35-238-3
I mean sure.. It's a flat tappet cam, and it's nothing special. But it would make for a solid runner. IMO anyway..[/QUOTE]


Okay... So, we have come full circle, gone ten rounds, and now we have come to close to what my suggestion was to buzzy. Now, I didn't suggest rebuilding the engine or going carbed. But, I did suggest this from earlier:


A little boost with a mild cam will make a nice improvement without being choked up. Increase the air flow in, and out, degree in the cam to taylor the power band, and it will be a much better performer.

Too add:
Port and bowl blend the heads, intall headers or performance exhaust mans, 2.5" duals is as much as I'd throw at it, good cam, degree it in, stronger ignition system, upgrade the induction system... yada yada yada. And if you are going to go through the effort to rebuild the heads, it is only a few more steps to do the bottom end. To which I would put the forged pistons in it, and get a min of 9.5:1 from it.
 
oh im running true dual and tru straight pipes 2.25 though so thy are the same as the collector tube, going to the empty glass packs i miter cut and bumped out the pass side in frot of the rear wheel that has a 18in section that goes to 4in lol and it sounds mean, ill to the six liter tune(adv spark stronger ignition, and idk ill see a rebuild in the futuer but not any time soon
 
Anything that increases the flow in and out according to your budget.
i want to do the cam first that way i can get spacific parts, ya fallow? loike i dont want to get a set of headers and find out they are holding my motor back from breathing but headers are next on my list and match porting or boul whatever pat said are on my consideration list, and if i find a used one for a good deal edelbrock truck intake
 
Headers increase exhaust flow. Bowl blending is technically part of porting. But, you don't HAVE to do it when you port/polish/cleanup a head.
 
Headers increase exhaust flow. Bowl blending is technically part of porting. But, you don't HAVE to do it when you port/polish/cleanup a head.
i know they do but i would rather get the cam first because im stuck between shortie headers and pacesetter long tubes i dont want to spend over 300 on the headers
 
I just don't get how you could build a car like you said you did and a truck like you said you did and you think smaller tires give you more speed
it will get to the top speed faster but the top speed will decreace which you already know lol i just wanted to make sure i still under stood it, but carol shelby did say this "Horsepower sells cars nad torque wins races" but he is no longer with us bless his soul
 
it will get to the top speed faster but the top speed will decreace which you already know lol i just wanted to make sure i still under stood it, but carol shelby did say this "Horsepower sells cars nad torque wins races" but he is no longer with us bless his soul

Ya talking to lifted and yes rip was a sad day
 
i know they do but i would rather get the cam first because im stuck between shortie headers and pacesetter long tubes i dont want to spend over 300 on the headers


If I were you I would do the bolt on stuff first. That cam may be small, but getting it to breathe better is going to make a world of difference. Now, to do the cam, you have to drain the coolant, remove the radiator and condensor, hoses, drive belt, pullies, accessory brackets, water pump, crank dampiner, and timing cover just to get to the cam. (You don't HAVE to take out the radiator or condensor to GET it to it, but to swap it you do). Then to actually swap it out, you have to remove the intake so you can get to the lifters and pushrods. Not the worst job to do, but we are talking about a 17? year old engine with 111k miles on it. Not very high milage mind you, but it does have it's age. VERY typical, because of Ford's infinate wisdom, the water pump bolts can/like to break off in the block. They bolt the water pump to/through the timing cover, and bolt the timing cover to the block. You can see how fast/easy this "simple" cam swap can become a nut sack crusher. lol. Many times you get lucky and the bolts come out with some finesse. Question is, do you want to take that chance? It is far easier, with gains that you will notice, to do the bolt ons first, then rebuild the engine when it needs it (or when you want too). This gives you a fresh engine, upgraded internals, little more compression ratio, you can clean up the heads, etc... Not saying that is what you have to do, but it is a route I would consider.
 
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