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lol i like that beastly says one thing and we're all like "Oh ****! it the 5-0 get the hell outa here ,Run!" lmao but i do respect all the moderators on this sight
 
Gen1Pat said:
If I were you I would do the bolt on stuff first. That cam may be small, but getting it to breathe better is going to make a world of difference. Now, to do the cam, you have to drain the coolant, remove the radiator and condensor, hoses, drive belt, pullies, accessory brackets, water pump, crank dampiner, and timing cover just to get to the cam. (You don't HAVE to take out the radiator or condensor to GET it to it, but to swap it you do). Then to actually swap it out, you have to remove the intake so you can get to the lifters and pushrods. Not the worst job to do, but we are talking about a 17? year old engine with 111k miles on it. Not very high milage mind you, but it does have it's age. VERY typical, because of Ford's infinate wisdom, the water pump bolts can/like to break off in the block. They bolt the water pump to/through the timing cover, and bolt the timing cover to the block. You can see how fast/easy this "simple" cam swap can become a nut sack crusher. lol. Many times you get lucky and the bolts come out with some finesse. Question is, do you want to take that chance? It is far easier, with gains that you will notice, to do the bolt ons first, then rebuild the engine when it needs it (or when you want too). This gives you a fresh engine, upgraded internals, little more compression ratio, you can clean up the heads, etc... Not saying that is what you have to do, but it is a route I would consider.
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That's exactly how I do it.
 
Gen1Pat said:
If I were you I would do the bolt on stuff first. That cam may be small, but getting it to breathe better is going to make a world of difference. Now, to do the cam, you have to drain the coolant, remove the radiator and condensor, hoses, drive belt, pullies, accessory brackets, water pump, crank dampiner, and timing cover just to get to the cam. (You don't HAVE to take out the radiator or condensor to GET it to it, but to swap it you do). Then to actually swap it out, you have to remove the intake so you can get to the lifters and pushrods. Not the worst job to do, but we are talking about a 17? year old engine with 111k miles on it. Not very high milage mind you, but it does have it's age. VERY typical, because of Ford's infinate wisdom, the water pump bolts can/like to break off in the block. They bolt the water pump to/through the timing cover, and bolt the timing cover to the block. You can see how fast/easy this "simple" cam swap can become a nut sack crusher. lol. Many times you get lucky and the bolts come out with some finesse. Question is, do you want to take that chance? It is far easier, with gains that you will notice, to do the bolt ons first, then rebuild the engine when it needs it (or when you want too). This gives you a fresh engine, upgraded internals, little more compression ratio, you can clean up the heads, etc... Not saying that is what you have to do, but it is a route I would consider.
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thats another thing i mean my uncle is a mechanic and will help me if i ask, but i dont know what to do first, i do want to do bolt on first but idk what i should do fist like i just want to do headers and cam and port my intake
 
Aw forget the cam for now. Lot of work for the little bit of gain. Besides, you need to build the motor to work with the cam. It needs to be a complete package.
 
beastlywarrior228 said:
I just don't get how you could build a car like you said you did and a truck like you said you did and you think smaller tires give you more speed
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A taller tire allows you to get more top speed and run out a gear longer but a shorter tire allows you to accelerate faster. For example if you build your car to run in the 1/8th mile you have to either put on a taller tire or change your gear ratio to run the 1/4 mile. An 1/8th mile car will hit the rev limit about 200' for the 1/4. So a smaller tire is great on a 4 wheeler for track racing which is they way mine was set up when I got it. But sucks on the trails as I found out this weekend when the damn thing could climb a hill in the mud.
 
warriorgirl09 said:
the army trusts lifted with a rifle haha... (i think he was trying to scare me o_O. him not know that i dont need the government to give me one! i buy my own)
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I wasn't trying to scare anyone just stating I'm no mechanic in the army I am in the Infantry. And I don't need to buy my guns, I build them.
 
liftedhigh said:
A taller tire allows you to get more top speed and run out a gear longer but a shorter tire allows you to accelerate faster. For example if you build your car to run in the 1/8th mile you have to either put on a taller tire or change your gear ratio to run the 1/4 mile. An 1/8th mile car will hit the rev limit about 200' for the 1/4. So a smaller tire is great on a 4 wheeler for track racing which is they way mine was set up when I got it. But sucks on the trails as I found out this weekend when the damn thing could climb a hill in the mud.
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we established this already
 
The only porting you can do with the intake itself, I'm assuming you mean intake manifold, is to port match it to the gaskets. That is pretty much useless, unless you port match the heads at the same time. To do that, removal of the heads is the very best way to do it. You could do it with the heads on the block, in the truck, leaning over the front end with the hood latch neutering you like a dog. But, the letal shavings will get absolutely everywhere. And, you will have to make sure the valves are close on the ports you are working on, and will have to make sure that the lifter valley, timing chain area, and the other ports are all blocked off to do it. Then there is the clean up. I'm not meaning to intimidate you, or be condinsending, I'm not that person. But, it is in both yours, and the engines, best interest to pull the heads and do it. Which goes back to what I said earlier about rebuilding the bottom end. You're nearly there anyway. May as well do it. Btw, you need to remove the dist to get the cam out, and intake ( forgot that earlier, lol). There is no sense in doing the work twice (cam swap) because you are going to do it all again in what could be a very short while. Do all the bolt ons you can, then get into the engine when you are ready, or when the time comes. You are limited as to the bolt ons, but you will be doing them anyway.
 
but im not doing a complete life full out build just a mild boost so headers cam and intake is what i want to start on headers will be first either shorties or long tube, as for the intake i may just match port it to the opening of the heads and then a mild cam that comes in at about 1500 and last to 5500 even though my motor will not rev that hight unless im floating the valves or hitting the rev limiter
 
liftedhigh said:
I wasn't trying to scare anyone just stating I'm no mechanic in the army I am in the Infantry. And I don't need to buy my guns, I build them.
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Dog and pony show is getting old. From BOTH parties. Lets do what this thread was intended to do... Answer Buzzy's questions.
 
so pat your just saying save my cash, have WG help me find the bolt ons possible, for intake and exhaust then possible cam? if i do the gt40 head swap ill be sure to take a look at the bottom end and replace what is needed
 
If your not burning oil and still have good compression no need to rebuild the bottom end. The 351 had a decent CR for a street driven truck. Do a compression check. Pulling the heads and standing there looking at the shortblock will tell you nothing.
 
liftedhigh said:
Yeah I responded before continuing to read the thread.

I see your next thread title being "WG How do you install a cam?" LOL
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you know what you mother fucker just get the **** off of here if you going to be that inconsiderate to a ******* 17 year old kid who wants to ******* learn about this ****, just get the **** out, you a ******* joke thats all you are i support the troops and i have nothing against MS but you you pole smoking cut i have a problem with i dont give a **** how big you are or that you were a soldier you are the most ******* inconsiderate pice of **** god put on this planet, just get the **** off the fourm right ******* now.the other members and i are tired of the ******* smart little jack ass comments that your putting out and if posting this gets me band for a while i dont give a **** i appologise to all the moderators and esspecaly tha administrator for my foul use of language but im pretty sure every one is tires of the remarks that keep being posted after warnings have been givin out and all was done. And you call your self a man your a little bitch lifted im not a fraid to admit that WG and other females are better at things thani am
 
GT40 heads arn't very good but if you are set on them go to a junk yard and pull them off an explorer for cheap.
 
buzzy613 said:
you know what you mother fucker just get the **** off of here if you going to be that inconsiderate to a ******* 17 year old kid who wants to ******* learn about this ****, just get the **** out, you a ******* joke thats all you are i support the troops and i have nothing against MS but you you pole smoking cut i have a problem with i dont give a **** how big you are or that you were a soldier you are the most ******* inconsiderate pice of **** god put on this planet, just get the **** off the fourm right ******* now.the other members and i are tired of the ******* smart little jack ass comments that your putting out and if posting this gets me band for a while i dont give a **** i appologise to all the moderators and esspecaly tha administrator for my foul use of language but im pretty sure every one is tires of the remarks that keep being posted after warnings have been givin out and all was done. And you call your self a man your a little bitch lifted im not a fraid to admit that WG and other females are better at things thani am
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You kiss your mother with that mouth? Shame on you little kid, go wash your mouth out with soap.
 
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