Found new yfm 350 "project" start???

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its not justy the throttle response just at idle it idles high and crappy and no throttle response maybe carb boot leak??? and ya i think that pipe is made for raptor cause it didnt fit right had to shorten where it mounts to head pipe like 5 inches, its loudest pipe ive ever heard i think lol
 
Yeah, sounds like it's got an air leak, clogged pilot jet, low fuel float height, or something along those lines making it run too lean. Does it get better if you pull the choke out a little? If it's too lean the choke would give it a little extra fuel and smooth it out some. Not a fix but it can help diagnose the problem.

If that pipe is really that loud you need to repack it, packing is only good for about a year on aftermarket pipes, less if it gets wet or muddy. As it gets bad it'll turn from a light fluffy pillow-like material into a hard lump pushed into one end of the pipe. You'll gain power and it'll look better, only costs a few bucks to do. If it's still too loud after that, the beauty of the disc type exhausts is that you can remove a few of the discs and quiet it down.

I like those front wheels, how much did those cost ya? I need to replace the bent up stock ones on my rappy, I have a real problem thrashing the **** out of my wheels.
 
What's the fuel screw set at? Should be about 2 or 2 1/2 turns out from fully in.

If you haven't checked out the intake manifold yet, make sure that isn't cracked. Usually they'll split right around the middle but they can also seperate at the ends which is less obvious when looking at it.

If that looks ok the next step is to take the manifold and carb off for closer inspection. Make sure the o-rings on the manifold and carb are both good, and not missing or split. I always use some RTV sealant on them for good measure when assembling them, I don't trust o-rings that are exposed to high heat like that.

If they look good, and the manifold is definitely in good shape, it's time to give the carb a good thorough cleaning. Take it apart piece by piece, remove all the jets, the fuel screw, everything. Blow carb cleaner then compressed air through each port until you're satisfied that anything in there is out of it.
 
you were right man split in carb boot and im a retard and had idle adjustment turned wrong way. mixture i played with and couldnt get occassional backfire through carb to go away and real bogging past 1/4 throttle. so now its all jetting problems i will drop it at shop tomorrow afternoon have them jet it all perfect i just dont have the time or patience so by end of week should be goo dto go.
 
that wouldnt make it backfire, it ran fine before stator went out and then added pipe and open air box
 
missouritrailrider said:
that wouldnt make it backfire, it ran fine before stator went out and then added pipe and open air box
Click to expand...

No but it would make it idle high even when you turn the idle adjuster out to idle it down.
 
lol did u read the post tyler? i dont mind u tryin to help but read before posting lol i said i got idle prob fixed caus screw was turned wrong way lol
 
ok guys here is my dilemma, i had the stud broke off for header. the shop said if they cant get it with puller or any other methods then they would have to pull head. if they gotta do that then should I go ahead with higher comp piston and .390 cam w springs, that also includes valve job bore hone pressure test head ect. so if they gotta pull head it will be like $200 for that labor on pullin head to fix stud or like $500 labor for top end plus parts
 
or another option would be to just replace stud and maybe thinner head gasket for more compression?
 
are you planning to put that stuff in later on? if so, why not go ahead and do it? i probably would in that situation.
 
ya but got lots of projects rite now and only thing rideable is old tecate lol ill wait and see wat the guy says about removing stud
 
F that, unless you got money to throw around, Pull it yourself and buy the parts, have them bore and hone it. And get the stud out. Same some $ for other parts.
 
Agreed, do it yourself and just have them do the non-diy stuff (bore, hone, stud removal). The rest you can do yourself with basic tools as long as you have the ability to read instructions and follow them, there's nothing hard about it once you break it down step by step.
 
ya, ill wait and make my decision on whether they can get the stud out without removing head. keep in mind that that labor price includes pressure checking valve job "trail" port ect. the actual labor on just removing and assembling would only save me about 150-200 bucks
 
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