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warriorgirl09 said:
wrong... the transmission is indeed bullet proof but the engines are not! the 20R's are a bitch to kill! they used steal timing chain guides that wore evenly with the rings/cylinders, timing chain/cam gear. when thet built the 1st gen 22r they swapped over to cheap brittle plastic guides that wore to quick and would cause the engine to jump out of time and 99% of the time cause piston/valve contact. judging by the body style i'm guessing it has the short block/tall head 22r in it. i'm not a fan of those (still good motors with a steel guide conversion) but the head isn't interchangeable with the 20r/1st gen 22r blocks. Moral of the story.... he would be wise to buy a steel guide conversion kit
Click to expand...

i know all about that i had a 89 pickup with the 22re loved the truck but not the motor so much. never did get the thing to quit blowing head gaskets. if i had had the money at the time id have down a motor conversion to something with a little more power.
 
the main thing to help power on the 20r/22r is to put #1 a heavier flywheel (around 10 pounds heavier) helps the lil motor turn bigger tires (up to 32's) w/o bogging so much. and #2 a towing cam. stock specs are .393 lift and 193' duration. step it up to .414 to .420 lift with 210' duration and that coupled with the 10pund hevier fly wheel it'll pull 35's like a stock engine pulls 31's. and with 31's it'll pull hell off hinges.
 
no the truck isn't crooked. my camera screwed it up on panoramic
Photo0130.jpg


oily engine with bright new NGK wires and ACdelco plugs :p
Photo0127.jpg


my wonderfully rusty frame (not as bad as it looks)
Photo0131.jpg


in the woods playin around :p
Photo0197.jpg
 
Yupp, well aware of the timing upgrade. Where can he get that "towing cam" and the heavier flywheel?
 
Ok i just finished putting front and rear wheel bearings in!, neal sealed battery is on a fedex truck on the way and i paid Kyler today for some parts (wiring harness, cdi, stator, stator cover, coil, throttle, and throttle cable, and a stator cover gasket)! so i should be riding by the end of the week :D.
so far i have $265.75 in it total!
 
for time being! no one never knows how long i'll have something :p. someone comes by and offers me enough money it'll be going down the road! haha
 
i got problems! ok got the motor back together and on the frame, wiring harness, cdi, coil and everything but here's my problem.... ok it turns over great and in perfect time but it doesn't spark all the time... it will spark once every once in awhile! and only does it when you let off the starter button... i've racked my freakin brain!. i bought it all from Kyler and it has the dual pulser coils meaning the harness and cri and stator is from a '87-'90 model warrior right? but i have everything from the same bike. help? i've run outta ideas
 
ok i checked ohms and here is what i got.

source coil = 290ohms (i think lol) (specs say 270-330ohms)
since it's a '88-'89 stator it has 2 pick-up coils
#1 is at 171.9ohms and #2 is at 171.7ohms (specs say 171ohms to 190ohms i think it was for that model)
ignition coil primary is 1.6 ohms (specs say 0.36-0.48ohms.
secondary is 6.10ohms (specs say 5.44-7.36ohms)

so the only thing i'm seeing out is the primary winding in the ignition coil. is it enough to almost completely kill the spark?
how can i test the cdi?
 
the only way i know of to test a cdi is to get a known good one and put it on the quad. Have you went threw and checked all of the grounds. thats what happened to me last year when i was having so many no starts. the little ground that came of the main battery and went to the coil had corroded and broke, but the rubber on the connector made it not obvious.
 
yup! i know my way around a multi meter ;). i filed all the grounding points before bolting them on to get a good clean contact surface. checked all wire's with a dead short beep meter and they all tested to a dead short (no breaks in the wire) so the harness is 100% good. I've narrowed it down to coil or CDI. but i don't think it's the CDI and the coil is 1ohm higher resistance than it should be... I'm not sure if that's enough to completely kill a spark :/
 
figured ya checked, but decide to throw it out there, some times people forget the obvious. 1 ohm might be enough but im not sure. especially with intermittent spark.
 
seems as though my source coild is under spec (reads 253ohms. should be ATLEAST 270ohms)
 
Just caught wind of this post. Hope you get it running soon!! $75 is a good deal, even with the issues it had. I was looking to get a deal like that, but my ski mask and gun came up missing. lol j/k and hope all is well with your grandma!!!
 
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