Clutch problem still!

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i just adjusted it where the tires move under tension and the clutch is not pulled in and when pulled, it takes the same amount of tension to move the backwheels. so your saying to once i got it where the tires will move under tension adjust back a little at a time until the tires will not move under tension when the clutch is pulled in right?
 
I think you might want to try adjusting it while runing. If I were you, I would adjust the cable so it is right smack in the middle of it's threads (down at the cover braket), that is generally where those cables like to sit. Then, (with no obstactles infront of you) hop on, start it, and put it in gear. Have a 12mm wrench handy. Keep the clutched pulled in, and if the bike rolls under it's own power take that wrench and tighten the front cable nut a little at a time, until the bike stops rolling. This MAY be easier than the route you're trying to take. At this point you have nothing to loose and everything to gain.
 
i will try it but could i just put the swingarm guard on a jackstand and do the same thing?
 
I just started it and put it on a jackstand and threw it in first tied the clutch lever to the handle bar and adjusted the cable until i couldnt adjust it no more and the tires kept spinning, never missed a lick genpat1!
 
did the tires turn freely when you did the vice grip and turned the lever all the way forward?
 
The reason I say to do it while on the ground is because the wheels will still spin some with the clutch pulled in and the rear on blocks. Cars with stick shifts do the same thing. Some will turn in neutral too. Just the nature of the beast. Sounds like you may want to have someone with experiance in this area help you in person. Its so hard to do things over the net. Nothing like having the bike right infront of you. We've exhausted our enternet diagnosis/repair minds on this one. Be best to bring in some fresh set of eyes, in person, not over the web.
 
yes I just did mine on the stand and the tires turn with it in first and running with clutch pulled in but as soon as i do it with the tires on ground with clutch pulled and start it it doesn't move so you gotta do the adjustment with wheels on ground and just feel the lever on bars when the engine starts grabbing you want it to start grabbing at just under half lever release
 
That is the norm I believe. Mine has hd clutch springs and it hooks up really fast when I start to let out the lever. Guys' clutch was engaging in the 1st vid and disengaged in the 2nd so it was working. Lets go back to square one. Forget about the clutch cable, lets make sure the clutch works. Take the old cable and put it in the clutch arm. Do not attach it to the bracket or the lever, you aren't going to use them. Just take the other end of the cable and loop it through something on the frame or bars, an hold it with your hand. With the engine running, pull the cable to move the clutch arm as far forward as it will go, and put the bitch in 1st. If it rolls, your clutch arm is too far forward on the splines, or the clutch is bad. I rode a warrior I picked up for resale like this to make sure everything worked before I put a new cable on it, lol.
 
alright genpat i will try the old cable and i will do the trick it on the ground also. I mean what have i got to lose like you said right.lol and did you guys see my latest video i put up today on the other thread?
 
I just watched that vid and the one before it. Even when the clutch disengages the wheels will be slightly difficult to turn, still. I think you may be over thinking the situation. In the latest vid you posted the wheels didn't turn at all because the clutch was fully engaged. I bet dollars to doughnuts that if you had pulled that clutch arm foreward with the old cable on it, you could have made the wheels turn.
 
You have to remember that even when the clutch is disengaged the trans is still in gear. And when you turn the wheels you are literally turning the transmission. The clutch only severes the link between the trans and the engine(crankshaft).
 
Gen1Pat said:
I just watched that vid and the one before it. Even when the clutch disengages the wheels will be slightly difficult to turn, still. I think you may be over thinking the situation. In the latest vid you posted the wheels didn't turn at all because the clutch was fully engaged. I bet dollars to doughnuts that if you had pulled that clutch arm foreward with the old cable on it, you could have made the wheels turn.
Click to expand...

so your saying im thinking to hard? it sure feels like it! haha "I bet dollars to doughnuts that if you had pulled that clutch arm foreward with the old cable on it, you could have made the wheels turn" what exactly do you mean? put the old cable back on and try it?
 
No no, just slip the cable end into the clutch arm, like you had it in the 2nd to last vid in the other thread, and pull foreward. I bet if you had pulled forward the wheels would have turned (with some resistance, remember they are turning all the trans gears). That confirms the clutch does indeed work.
 
so your saying the tires will always turn with some resistance with the clutch pulled in because of the transmission gears? i understand that. and the clutch is engaging and disengaging also, i can understand that too. but when i have it in first and i am going down the road and i pull the clutch in it wont stop? just because it needs adjusted right?
 
ok I just pulled the clutch arm all the way forward with the old clutch cable and pushed the start button in 1st gear when it was on the ground and it still tried to take off?
 
I don't have any sound on this work computer. But, seeing as how the bike rolls with the clutch pulled I'm gunna say you have 1 of 2 possible probs. Hell, it may be a combo of both. Anyhow, possible prob #1: with you moving the clutch arm on that shaft so many times it is not where it needs to be and the clutch isn't able to disengage fully.

Possible prob #2: you have clutch issues that go beyond cable and adjustment. You may be at the point of taking the clutch cover off and inspecting the clutch and it's release mechanisms.
 
well the arm on the shaft, i have tried in every position possible so i will have to go with #2. and I will take it off tonight and have a look see. I will probably post another video of it also.
 
I have difficulty believing the clutch is bad, because when a clutch goes bad it will slip. Unless the clutch plates are sticking together, keeping them locked. Take a real good look at the release shaft and mechanism.
 
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