Rebuild of my Raptor 350

Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum

Help Support Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Yes, totally different. Don't mind Tyler, he just tries to be helpful with **** he doesn't know anything about, that's how he rolls lol.

There are carb kits for the raptor 350 around if you need one. Do you have any reason to believe the carb needs rebuilt or are you just thinking about doing it while it's apart? I'd recommend leaving it alone if there's nothing wrong with it now, fixing **** that's not broken is just unnecessary cost and work. Carbs can be tempermental once they've been tampered with so you could be creating yourself more work down the road trying to get it right again.
 
Damn it I didn't mean to do that im just use to looking up warrior parts, and im pretty sure this is the FIRST time I have given bad information lol and thanks for catching that mistake yamarider.
 
Well I just wanted to replace a few gaskets really and clean it up figured if a rebuild kit had everything it might be cheaper. The bike ran fine though. I was trying to get the throttle shaft out usually you can just remove the blade thing was a pain in the ass. Guess ill clean it up as good as I can and not screw with it much. They had the plate off that covers where the throttle cable connects and didnt seal it back up good and it had a bunch of crap in there I was wanting to get cleaned out better. Too bad these arent EFI a throttle body is much easier to take apart lol.
 
Im thinking about getting some new bars and a clutch perch and lever but I cant decide on which to go with. Ide like to keep the stock shroud that holds the N and R lights. I was thinking about a MSR assembly for the clutch also but not sure which one.
 
Forget the stock neutral and reverse lights do this LOL

Lightmod1.jpg
 
Got my ball joint separator in the mail today and took the a-arms off. They all came off nice and easy except for when I got to the left side lower arm I guess they didnt grease that 1 as well. The bolts were seized to the sleeves I had to use the air hammer to get them out. If I didnt have that doubt I would of got them out with a regular hammer. All I have left now is to take the rear swing arm off and clean up everything and get it all powder coated then put it back together. :).
 
Im trying to get the rear axel out now and its being a pain in the ass. I followed the service manual and I got the 46mm nut off and im at the part where you put a socket over the end and hit it out. Its not coming out tho .
 
You could try Pb Blaster and some heat. The Pb blaster will loose up the rust and it will be quicker with some heat. You might want to replace the bearings after you get the axle out. That rust is pretty good at dissolving rust and I'm not sure what it would do to the bearing seals.
 
I did use some pb blaster I havnt tried to heat it yet though good idea. I thought about taking it out with the carrier and positioning it to pound down on it. I got new bearings also.
 
that stuff is great and it will pretty much eat the rust. On the side of the can they have the cup test well we tried it at the shop I used to work for and it's works. It ate a hole in the cup it's some sort of catalyst and with heat it should break loose. The only thing I would suggest is spraying it. Heat it and spray and heat it again and then let it soak in and the it should break loose with a little persuasion. A block of wood and a sledge hammer might just be enough to break it loose.
 
I forgot I would put the axle hub nut on so it's flush with the axle and carefully tap it with the hammer.
 
Hope you have better luck pulling the axle out than I usually do, I just have bad luck working on stuff though. The first time I took the axle out of my warrior for bearings it took me a week of trying different **** while being careful not to damage the axle before I just got pissed off and swung at it full force with a splitting maul, axle went flying out the other side of the carrier like a sum'bitch and i just had to chase the threads with a die to fix the damage I caused from wailing on it.

My 700 was even worse, I don't know why because the thing only had 40 hours of riding on it, but I ended up pretty much destroying that axle to get it apart. I actaully had to grind the castle nuts off both ends to get the hubs off because they were stuck so tight. Castle nuts piss me off too, the harder you crank on them, the tighter they get because it crushes the ends onto the axle threads. Then about 5 heavy swings with the maul to get it out of the carrier. The good news there is the axle was already fucked so it didn't matter what I had to do to it to get it out, there was a brand new Lonestar Axicalibar XC waiting to go in. Would have been a much more time consuming, stressful experience if i was trying to save the axle.

Words of wisdom though, when you put it back in grease the **** out of the bitch, I mean an obnoxious amount of grease, it'll come out a hell of a lot easier next time. The second time I removed the axle in my warrior I did it like the manual suggets, putting a socket over the nut and giving it a tap with a hammer. Just 2 taps with a 5 pound sledge and it slid right out even though the carrier was half full of rusty water... shitty ass pivot works seals.
 
Nice choice for the rear skid! I really really really want that one too.
 
Thanks, I just got the raptor down to the bare frame all I have to do now is get that carrier off the axel. Im going to go try in a few minutes.
 
Ahhhhhhhh that damn rear axle is not coming out!! I took it off with the carrier and set it up so I could hit down on it and still no luck. Im about to just tear it up and get another axle.
 
spdfrk1990 said:
Uhoh pivot works are the seals I bought. Should I not use them?

I don't know, one of the springs that coil around the inside of the seal broke on mine, so it opened up a gap and let water into the carrier. Might have just been a freak thing, but it pissed me off, so i just went with the cheap no-name ones that rocky mountain was selling and the worked fine, actually appeared to be great quality for parts that were 2-5 bucks.

You'll probably be fine with the ones you have, i'm thinking it was just an isolated incident with mine breaking, never heard any other big complaints about them.
 
Back
Top