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my 350 bruin is the same way, makes it sounds like its gonna blow up

its gonna be harder to turn when its in the motor because it has to turn the motor over. might be the battery if it have the power to turn it over

looking at atv parts unlimited just about everything matches up except bottom end gaskets match up cuz ones auto and ones manual. just whats the worst that can happens if they are a little off worse than what they are.

is the warrior and bruin top ends the same because i can't find a manual for my bruin and i need to adjust the valves and hope i don't mess it up. if they are the same would that valve gaps be the same or should i call the dealership and ask them.

i heard 660 has bad valves. i'm not sure if 2006's do but a buddy of mine told me not to get anything before 2004 cuz it will have that problem. a grizzly is a beast though take you anywhere you wanna go almost

my girl wants me to keep it only way i'll get rid of it is for a 450 wolverine with the newer body style

i'll take pics when i go ride tomorrow, but it looks almost identical to this one, except mine has a little dirt on it from the last ride. at least i'm still in the yfm350 catagory.

got me a 05 yfm350 bruin 4x4 auto. trade my 2000 warrior for it. motor was getting ready to need to be rebuild, needed a new clutch and trans work so i traded it to some dumb kid for my bruin. its in almost new condition. didn't want to fool with rebuilding the bike so traded even for it some...

found one this can be deleted.

got rid of the bike i had and got a new one and the ignition switch is broke on it and you gotta turn it with a screw driver

ran across a problem once had gas in the float and it would make it flood.

looks like 1 side was barely in and the other side all the way. might be able re tap it and get it back in there. stuff like that you need it even on both sides or close. usually one side is reverse threaded on one side so u can turn it and it goes in on both sides.

when ever i got anything that stripped i just cut a slit into it with my dremal and use a flathead to take it out.

i wouldn't stud the tire unless your gonna be on ice alot. i've never had it help in the snow. i would defiantly take off the swingarm skid like they said if your won't risk damaging the rotor. i did ok with mine in about 5-6 inches with the skid as long as i didn't come to a complete stop.just...

i have to keep my fenders for a place to put my feet when i go creek riding

haven't gotten around to changing the oil in it. i got the filter but haven't gotten around to getting the oil and changing it. the oil in it looks good and it don't use any so haven't messed with it. whats a good brand to use when i do it.

mines still stock was thinking about making it a direct but haven't took time to get the shifter. but idk if that's the problem for me. when the engine is cool it shifts fine all the way up and back down but once it warms up it will go up fine except for 6th at times but going back down it...

after going wot in 5th or 6th gear it don't want to go into first right after you stop. you gotta pop it in and out of a couple gears before it wants to go into first or second. not sure what it could be any ideas?

first time i really went hard on it and went creak riding. nut came loose on the bolt that holds the chain tensioner and bent that and sheared the head off with the sprocket on the ride back, and bent a tensioner.guess i should go over the bike and re torque everything. did some water wheelies...

its running fine now sprayed the jets with an air compressor.