case saver?

Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum

Help Support Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
It touched a little but will do some more clearance work as I go. The whole idea is to have it run somewhat close to the chain so it has no where to bunch up if it breaks. The theory is that if it can't bunch up, it will just feed on through and onto the ground. I am sure there are exceptions and extreme cases where it won't matter and will still break things. Have a similar setup on my Banshee and have never had to test it either. Usually replace chains fairly regular.

Don't really intend to make any more. Too much time, and turned my finger into hamburger when the aluminum burr grabbed and bounced into my hand.

Figured it would be worth an ask. I always would rather pay a member than a big company.
 
Figured it would be worth an ask. I always would rather pay a member than a big company.

Yupp, and if you ever are hard for some cash, this is a great item to have replaced somewhere or you to one off and sell. Its a only one of its kind type of item, good money maker! Of course you'd have to take in effect that fact that people fun diff sprocket sizes too thou.

Great work!!!
 
You know as a justin case :) you should make another copy that you can use as a template when you have this one done, that way if you ever decide to make more you have one you can copy off of, or need to replace yours. Might make it faster to make once you have a template to run around.
 
can always find come company to make a CAD or mold of it too and shop around to see what having a batch of them would cost you, and then sell them on here and fleebay. If positioned right, you could sell a whole slew of them, warrior engine chain cracks are quite common, this is a great safety item!
 
I have heard so many stories of cracked cases on these ATV's from chains. One of my friends at the Yamaha dealer told me that was the first thing to look at when I was looking to buy. This was one of the first things on the agenda and until I saw the pics of the NOSS one I wasn't sure how I was going to go about it.

I have a bud that does CNC stuff and may hit him up about writing a program to make them. Don't really see it being cheaper than the NOSS unit, though.
 
May not be cheaper, but no one makes them from the stuff you did. So its different, and if Ive read this right the stuff you used is better than metal.
 
dude this is soooo sick if you were selling them id order 3!!!! but tobad your not selling them btw how thick is it were its by the sprocket 1.25-.75? and dose it fit really snug against the case? or dose it have extra space there?
 
I have a bud that does CNC stuff and may hit him up about writing a program to make them. Don't really see it being cheaper than the NOSS unit, though.

True, but NOSS is aluminum and you got a polymer. Yours is better.
 
dude this is soooo sick if you were selling them id order 3!!!! but tobad your not selling them btw how thick is it were its by the sprocket 1.25-.75? and dose it fit really snug against the case? or dose it have extra space there?

I'd have to measure how thick. It would depend on the size of sprocket. Mine is a 13 tooth. I'd say it's close to 1/2" thick. I laid the nylon over the bare case half I have and scribed it with a pick. The contour is pretty close and does fit tight to the case. Depth wise, it goes past the chain to the inside roughly 1/2" as well.
 
Kind of hard to see so I put an arrow, but here is a back view of the installed case saver:

case_saver_10.jpg
 
I just thought of something after seeing this pic, is the chain going to hit that case saver when you compress the shock and the swing arm swings up?
 
I just thought of something after seeing this pic, is the chain going to hit that case saver when you compress the shock and the swing arm swings up?

It does look like it would hit. Looking at the one side view picture it for sure looks like it will hit. If I get time tomorrow I will drop a straight edge across the top chain roller and the highest point of the curve and trim it off. Thanks for pointing that out.
 
Last edited:
Ok here are some pics with dimensions. Keep in mind there was a lot of freehand work done so don't abide by these dimensions 100%. After it was pointed out, and I looked at it, I cut the top a little higher so the chain won't hit it when the rear suspension is compressed. I stacked 3- 1/4" washers between the chain cover and frame to make up the distance for the thickness of the case saver (last photo). I put some silicone on the washers so they stay stuck to the cover. Sure beats trying to hold them and start the bolt. I also put metal spacers in the bolt holes of the case saver (just a hair thinner than the boss) to allow it to tighten up without distorting the nylon too much.

case_saver_11.jpg


case_saver_12.jpg


case_saver_13.jpg


case_saver_14.jpg


case_saver_15.jpg


case_saver_16.jpg
 
That looks good man. It does look better with the top of it cut at an angle and back more, now it makes the chain wad up when it breaks and stop rather then being slung around if that makes sense.
 
Looks good. Probably mounts a little more solid than mine. I may work off your idea and make a plate like that. I made the mounting lip a little too thick and now it would be tough to make it thinner and keep the contour correct. Probably made it easier to fit the curve of the case?
 
Back
Top