Carburetor choice?

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Because your looking at the raptor boot. Isn't that the piece that goes from the carb to the air box?

If not I am sorry for wasting the time =/
 
heres the factory intake manifold for a raptor so you can bolt up any of these carbs you want. Wish I would have found this before ordering one from DR as then you don't have to use the stock intake manifold with an adaptor..
5YT-13586-00-00 JOINT, CARBURETOR 1 $22.25
Yamahasportsplaza.com under 06 raptor 350 intake.
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Use this place as its the cheapest place I've found if your looking for the intake manifold that will fit that carb, no adaptors needed. You might have to lengthen the stock airbox tube to fit the back of the carb.
Or you can use the stock warrior one and buy an adaptor from Duncan Racing that goes on to the stock intake manifold to the carb.
 
Since we are on this topic, will using a Z400 carb with the TPS sensor make a difference since the TPS would not be hooked up? Or could it be used at all?
 
I don't think there would be a difference. I'm pretty sure the TPS goes into the CDI, so if that's the case it wouldn't affect anything.

And another question, would the automatic choke that's on some Z400 carbs work? How does it work anyway, how does it know when to use choke or not?
 
I don't think there would be a difference. I'm pretty sure the TPS goes into the CDI, so if that's the case it wouldn't affect anything.

And another question, would the automatic choke that's on some Z400 carbs work? How does it work anyway, how does it know when to use choke or not?
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Yup the tps goes to the CDI to advance/retard ignition timing vs. rpm and throttle postion.
The auto choke is a neat feature.. I'll expain it when I have a little more time.
 
I don't think there would be a difference. I'm pretty sure the TPS goes into the CDI, so if that's the case it wouldn't affect anything.
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Correct. No difference at all.
 
The electric choke works off of voltage (heat basically).. There is a spring, coil of wires and wax inside where the choke goes... As you heat the coil it starts to melt the wax inside and the spring starts to relax and the choke comes off. As voltage is released or shut off the wax starts to form and spring more tension and the choke begins to come on.
I've seen it where they apply small amount of voltage to the coil of wire and that heats it and causes the coil to expand and contract, cause the choke to work.
 
Honestly I not sure at this point. I think you might need to wire up something but again I'm not so sure. If anything it will be very simple and I can help you.
Maybe a better picture where the choke is and I'll do a little research for you.
 
I'm not even sure, I didn't get it yet. I think it's the '04+ models, but don't quote me on that. I'll try to figure it out when I get it, if I can't I'll let you know jasonp. :p Thanks again. I can't even count the amount of times you've helped me.
 
Well I just got it in, and damn this thing is confusing. I has 2 cables coming out of it, 1 is throttle and I have no idea what the other one is, it doesn't even move when I pull it. I also can't find anything the resembles a choke mechanism on the outside, and finally, all the screws are stuck, and I stripped a float bowl screw.

Also, there is a 3-pin connector coming out of it, I'm guessing that has something to do with the auto choke and TPS, gonna ask on Z400 central.
 
Well I just got it in, and damn this thing is confusing. I has 2 cables coming out of it, 1 is throttle and I have no idea what the other one is, it doesn't even move when I pull it. I also can't find anything the resembles a choke mechanism on the outside, and finally, all the screws are stuck, and I stripped a float bowl screw.

Also, there is a 3-pin connector coming out of it, I'm guessing that has something to do with the auto choke and TPS, gonna ask on Z400 central.
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To get the float bowl screws out you can use a vise grip pliers and grab on the bolt head. Replace them with some allen headed screws and that would work great.
I bet that other cable is for the choke and the wires are for the tps or maybe some sort of carb heat... I also check into it as I'm interested.
 
Just got a reply, that other cable is the choke, they told me to replace it with a normal pull-style choke. And I can't get to the float bowl screws with visegrips, they're too close to the bowl. I'm thinking I should just dremel a slot and use a flat screwdriver.
 
You could do that or drill them out or drill the head off and then you should turn right out as you'll be able to take the float bowl off.
 
That seems like a better idea, just cut the head off and use visegrips to unscrew it, now if only I could find my visegrips.
 
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