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dodgewarrior

dodgewarrior

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2012
Messages
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Location
Edmonton, A.B.
So list of have dones
- Starter repalced
-CDI replaced
-stator replaced
-coil replaced
-wire harness replaced
-starter replaced
-valves set
-new plug
-new gas
- cleaned carb (dirty as hell)
-cleaned petcock (pluged right off)
-timing set
as a result of all this i have spark and it still wont run i get the odd back fire when trying to turn it over, or the odd rumble llike its about to fire but it never does.:argh: and ive had exhaust come out my intake on occasion (any i dea why this is happening) also as its spinning i get a clang and itll stop spinning then start again
now i was reading on here about a guy who had similar issues and it was the timing chain, it was 3/4" out or loose i cant rememeber. how do you check your chain to see if its loose and how do you resolve this i found a write up on how to set timing but could not find anything on the chain. i havent tried pull starting yet as i broke the shifter unloading from the truck. its minor ill fix it when im closer to a running machine i guess. HELP please spring is almost here and i feel llike im just :beat: im ready to just write it off for parts but like i said i get the odd burst of life outta it its just toying with me i swear
 
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Pull the cam chain tenisioner and see how far out the pusher has been sitting.
 
dodgewarrior said:
- cleaned carb (dirty as hell)
-cleaned petcock (pluged right off)
Click to expand...

How clean did you make it?
Did you remove the pilot jet from the body and run a small wire through it?
Run a wire in each end of the accelerator pump passages in the body, discharge nozzle, air/fuel screw orfice and bowl?
Verify full flow through every passage with carb cleaner?

Did mine a few times before I figured it out. Just hosing with cleaner won't really clean it.
It MUST be spotless.
 
Another thing to check is the intake manifold and the intake boots for rips/holes/splits. Does sound like more of a timing issue. Have you tried starting fluid? If it starts and runs breifly then you know its carb related. Also, be sure to blow out all jets a passageways with compressed air.
 
I was the guy with the streched chain. I would check all the dog bones in the starter clutch. Do not know if that is the officail name but it works around here. mine would start to turn then clunk or slam. A few of the bones were crack. If there is not enough tension put on the shaft they will slip and then the .... Clunk.
 
Yeah try ebay for a starter clutch (new they are close to 250, but ebay you can get one for about $50 new if your lucky) if the starter clutch is bad sometimes it wont run at all other times it will start and you will have a real hesitation when you hit the gas and a back fire the spark is an issue i have is it that your not getting any spark or really spuratic spark here and there just nothing constant thats what mine does and my wiring harness is about shot just the rear half running to the cdi box another thing to try is take off the back plastics and see what your spark is doing then if you get spark wiring connections or broken wires also try and move wires as your starting it just let me know how it turns out
 
Thanks guys haven't had a chance to get any work done on it yet been really busy at work.
@ dead last thanks I will check that for sure where should it be sitting
@ motoarts I stripped it right down and blasted it with carb cleaner didn't use air maybe a second try is in order lol.
@ gen1pat the intake boot is in good condition and I haven't tried starting fluid. I usually try and avoid that stuff I've seen what it does to diesels lol
@owenj Are you talking about those guide stopper thingss on either side of the chain
http://216.37.204.203/Yamaha_OEM/YamahaATV.asp?Type=13&A=51&B=6
http://216.37.204.203/Yamaha_OEM/YamahaATV.asp?Type=13&A=51&B=16 that's the starter clutch assembly which part is it
@road1420 I think I'm getting decent spark now I've replaced all the electrical at this point lOl
 
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Check before doing something Crazy

I got Two Warriors one of them stop running for no reason, when I got home I notice the Air Intake was broken but also when i crank the engine Inotice air pushing back on forward the carburator, I took it a part and found that the Intake Valve was bend and was not closing it stock open.

when I looked deep in to it My Camshaft broke in half dont know why since it was my daughter atv and she learning, dude check everything follow all tips in this place n you will get it right.....I wish I could be there to give u hand.......:atv:
 
I have a starter and clutch if you need it. It is from an 87 , not 100% positive it is the same as yours. Also, if you still need a shifter I will make you a direct one or sell you my old one off my quad. I just made a direct and it works pretty decent.
 
Starting fuild on a gasser is fine. Diesels are way too high compression to use it. Atleast on todays modern diesels with all the electronics/turbos/etc, older naturally asperated diesels seem to do alright. Are you sure the compression is okay? Sometimes compression is too low to start an engine, but with excessive cranking it can build enough to start, or atleast, backfire because of all the fuel in the cylinder. Do a compression test to verify. If you give it a shot of s/fluid and it still doesn't start then I'd look into timing or compression. If it has spark and compression it will start on s/fluid.

As to Los Coje, did a valve adjuster screw and locknut fall out of the rocker arm? I've seen this happen on 2 warriors. My buddies 88 right in front of me, and an older yfm I bought for resale a few years ago. They got lodged in the cam and spun the cam gear on the shaft and bang! Needed cams, gear, and adjuster screws/locknuts.
 
ok well not to seem like an ass but did you replace the wiring harness with a new or used i have off days with mine well half days one minute it runs the next it doesnt jiggke the wiring harness it runs fine (i also reran the stock harness till i get a new one) a common place if its used is under back plastics behind the battery box (only if there are no plastics screws under the battery usually) well if its used try taking plastics off if not maybe starter clutch is my opinion
 
RE:Gen1

:tup:mad: Gen,, nop thats the strange part the valve also broke in half, lugnuts n everything alse was in place, it cost about 200.00 just in parts to fix lucklely I know some mechanic work,,,,,,but right now is working and ready for trails.

One more thing for some reason I dont have front brakes, change both caliper and now its barely stop, I think ill change or get a repair kit for pump.

:slayer:
 
If you don't have leaks or kinks in the brake hoses then its the master cylinder. Unless the fuild got real hot and gelled some, or debris got in the system, the bango bolts could be stopped up. Hell the lines could be stopped up some,too. Take the bango bolts out of both ends and blow air through the lines to make sure there are no blockages. Warriors also have a proportioning valve that the lines split from to go to both wheels. If all that is good rebuild/replace master. Wierd your cam broke like that. But, there is a lemon time to time.
 
@gen1 I'm going to get a compression tester today and check that what should my comprisoin be. I'll also grab some starter fluid and give it a shot what the hell at this point. Also fixed the shifter so I'll just pulling it lol.
@ road 1420 I didn't think you where being an ass lol I replaced it with a used one but I inspected it all connections look good no frayed wires
@ John boy Haha heyy Johnboy you guys just as busy on the frac side of things I would imagine that with the amount of cement I've put underground you'll be pretty steady. If your around this week I'll prolly be looking for some parts if anyone knows if his 87 will be compatible with my 92 please advise thx
 
If this is an aftermarket stator I would flip the red and white wires around on the source/pickup side of the coil and see if that fixes your problem. They are known to wire them backwards.
 
You've got some internal issues in the top end. Either your timing is off, and the valves aren't fully closed on the compression stroke. Or your rings and cylinder wall are worn. You did mention s clanging sound, that could be valve to piston interference. You could even have a bent valve. Best thing to do is pull the head and see what there is to see.
 
yeah i agree. if the cam is off, the valves could be open when the piston is at tdc. this could cause the piston to hit, bend or even brake a valve.
 
Gen1Pat said:
You've got some internal issues in the top end. Either your timing is off, and the valves aren't fully closed on the compression stroke. Or your rings and cylinder wall are worn. You did mention s clanging sound, that could be valve to piston interference. You could even have a bent valve. Best thing to do is pull the head and see what there is to see.
Click to expand...


Instead of just pulling the head to see what is going on, I would take the spark plug out and rotate the engine by hand and see if something is hitting. Low compression can be from a couple different things like adjusting valves on the wrong stroke (overlap rather then compression), bad gauge... I would do a leak down test before tearing it appart.

Could also pull the valve covers, cam cover and timing mark plug to make sure everything was alined. I would also pull the cam tenisoner spring out first then the assembly to see how far out the adjuster is.

What was this guys problem in the first place? haha
 
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