micheal654
Well-Known Member
Ok I just installed some of my new gear (FMF powercore 4 , Powerbomb Header , K&N Air Filter and Dynojets ) just start it up and my header at right were the header meets the motor got blood red is this normal or wrong?
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RED HEAD PIPE HELP QUICK PLEASE
- Thread starter micheal654
- Start date
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jasonp
Well-Known Member
well it's going to get hot but it's mostlikely running lean on a couple of the circuits.
Did you tune your fuel screw?
Did you tune your fuel screw?
micheal654
Well-Known Member
No I didn't would that make a difference also I may have put in the wrong jet I think I used a 132
vestige019
Well-Known Member
yeah also the fmf headers arnt nearly as thick as stock headers and tend to heat up and glow red alot easier
lucasislight
Well-Known Member
i think your lean with that 132 dynojet, i used to run a 138 dynojet during the summer, with similar mods to you. i think its comparable to a 147.5-150 mikuni jet. try the 138 it will probably help alot. and that header will definately heat up, unlike the stock header. the only way to tell for sure where your jetting is at is to chop a few plugs. its a pain in the ass to do, but your better off than guessing.
warriorxcr1
Well-Known Member
my fmf header was always gold..... never had red but it has to be running lean.
purple i believe is rich. red is way lean. gold is perfect. correct me if im wrong guys.
keep jetting... its the only solution
purple i believe is rich. red is way lean. gold is perfect. correct me if im wrong guys.
keep jetting... its the only solution
warriorxcr1
Well-Known Member
did you take your lid off? that could be huge as well
jasonp
Well-Known Member
don't that offer some sort of tuning manual with the kit.
Alright here we go.
fuel screw. turn the idle up on the bike to about 1800 rpm. start with the fuel screw turned 1/4 from all the way in (very lightly seated) and slowly half a turn out at a time back it out. You'll get to a point where rpms are starting to raise and get higher and higher. You'll hear the bike start to run clean and no poping out the carb.. lean. Or no poping out the exhaust, rich. Once you get to that point stop. Your just about perfect. I find you have to back the screw out about 1/4 to a 1/2 turn more and your right on. 0-1/4" throttle. Make sure and count the turns as you turn the fuel screw out. more than 3 1/2 turns out replace the pilot jet with a bigger one and start over.
Next move on to the main jet. I've found with the warrior I like to start rich until it sputters on the top. Then back off one size at a time and you will find that the engine will rev higher and higher before it starts to sputter. As soon as it rev's cleanly to the top stop. Your perfect and if you jet it any leaner it doesn't help any I've found. This engine likes to be run a hair rich.
Needle right in the middle, I have the hardest time with this but you can start rich and work lean again. Run it wide open and back off slightly to 3/4 throttle so your on the needle and off the main. If the engine sputters to rich and just work your way down until the sputtering goes away. Also if your to lean on the needle it will have that mid range bog.
Alright here we go.
fuel screw. turn the idle up on the bike to about 1800 rpm. start with the fuel screw turned 1/4 from all the way in (very lightly seated) and slowly half a turn out at a time back it out. You'll get to a point where rpms are starting to raise and get higher and higher. You'll hear the bike start to run clean and no poping out the carb.. lean. Or no poping out the exhaust, rich. Once you get to that point stop. Your just about perfect. I find you have to back the screw out about 1/4 to a 1/2 turn more and your right on. 0-1/4" throttle. Make sure and count the turns as you turn the fuel screw out. more than 3 1/2 turns out replace the pilot jet with a bigger one and start over.
Next move on to the main jet. I've found with the warrior I like to start rich until it sputters on the top. Then back off one size at a time and you will find that the engine will rev higher and higher before it starts to sputter. As soon as it rev's cleanly to the top stop. Your perfect and if you jet it any leaner it doesn't help any I've found. This engine likes to be run a hair rich.
Needle right in the middle, I have the hardest time with this but you can start rich and work lean again. Run it wide open and back off slightly to 3/4 throttle so your on the needle and off the main. If the engine sputters to rich and just work your way down until the sputtering goes away. Also if your to lean on the needle it will have that mid range bog.
micheal654
Well-Known Member
warriorxcr1 I didn't take the lid off
lucasislight 138 is the way to go but what about the eluvation(talk about bad spelling , huh) is that a big deal
lucasislight 138 is the way to go but what about the eluvation(talk about bad spelling , huh) is that a big deal
I have the same prob, I am running a Yosh full system K&N and dynojet and I am glowing. went to a 134 main with 4 clicks to the needle and 3 1/2 turns on the idle screw. I am starting to get frustrated and am thinking about an edelbrock unit as eveyone has had good **** to say about it. new to the site I am in J-burg NJ with an 04 raptor. anyone have this problem? was wondering where to get an edelbrock for my whip cheap.
jasonp
Well-Known Member
think of it as 3 basic circuits to tune.
0-1/4 -pilot
1/4-3/4 -needle
full throttle. main
Follow what I said above an you will find your jetting to be very close or to be spot on.
0-1/4 -pilot
1/4-3/4 -needle
full throttle. main
Follow what I said above an you will find your jetting to be very close or to be spot on.
lucasislight
Well-Known Member
unless your riding up in the mountains elevation shouldnt have alot of effect. newfoundlands highest point is the lewis hills, i think, and they are not high enough to worry about. the only way to be sure that the jetting is correct is to read your spark plug. start with the 138 main, follow the directions that jasonp said and you should be ok.
BTW- i run with a 150 mikuni and the stock taper needle set one richer (up) and the stock pilot jet at 3 turns out during the summer.
BTW- i run with a 150 mikuni and the stock taper needle set one richer (up) and the stock pilot jet at 3 turns out during the summer.
teamexileracing
Well-Known Member
Ebay!was wondering where to get an edelbrock for my whip cheap.
micheal654
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the help guys it work quite nicely and lucasislight knows "Da Rock"
87warrior78
Active Member
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go bigger on your pilot jet like jasonp said pilot 0 to1/4 is the pilot jet nothing to do with the main jet that is higher rpms that kicks in. i had the same problem with mine. mine was glowing so bad you could almost see through the pipe i think i went to a 50 pilot jet and problem sloved
93warriorridr
Well-Known Member
i just finally got my bike jetted right. Im running a 32 main dynojet with a k&n, lid off, and FMF performax slipon. The motor is stock inside. took me forever to get the damn thing running right.
