Rear Brake?

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The piston isn't pushed back into the caliper all the way. It should be almost even with the caliper when it's pushed in all the way, maybe 1/16th of an inch sticking out.

If you can't get the piston pushed in any deeper, move on to the next part:

If you still have the stock parking brake, try backing the big bolt in the center out (you'll have to loosen the lock nut first) or take the whole parking brake assembly off the caliper with the 2 allen head bolts.

If you already removed the stock parking brake setup and have a blockoff plate installed, try loosening it up or taking it off, some blockoff plates aren't deep enough and the peg on the back of the piston will hit it and keep from pushing into the caliper all the way. I ran into this problem with my moose blockoff plate, when I installed new EBC pads (thicker than stock) and a new Vesrah drilled rotor (also may be thicker than stock) I just had to get the dremel and remove a little material from both the peg and the inside of the blockoff to get it to fit back on without interfering.
 
the brake caliper wont mount on the braket right because there is a gap.
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the part that you have to thread the bolts into will slide in if you push it, it allows the caliper to move as the outer pad wears, just push it back in and your set man
 
the caliper floats independently of the mounting bracket. If you tighten up the mounting bolts and it tries to bend the rotor your caliper slides are probably seized up from rust, corrosion, and dirt in them. Your best bet in that case, if you can't free them up, would be to buy a used caliper on ebay.
 
just thought I'd chime in on YamaRider's note...... thats why its important to antiseize the slide pins whenever you have the caliper off, I can't beleive how many people don't do this.
 
I sprayed them with pb yesterday and today and got a tight fitting allen key with a bar for some leverage and it cracked and turned a little then i went to turn it again and it stripped
 

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