pull starting

[91dime]

When I pull start my warrior it is very hard to pull, and it sounds like I am turning the electric starter over to. Should it be hard to pull start my bike? It eill start with the electric starter and run fine, and I have even pull started it and it ran. Any ideas on what it would be? I was thinking the bendix could be bad but I dont know.

 

[boxhead]

The warriors that had the pull start also had a decompression cam on the exhaust rocker cover. If you look up the 80's models you'll notice the cover had a little switch that slightly opened the exhaust valve to make it easy to pull start, that could be a issue if you don't have one. The crank should free spin when spun counterclockwise, so you might have to check the starter clutch. Me and my best friend have both went through one in less than five seasons, so I wouldn't doubt if it's bad. You'll need the yamaha flywheel puller to get to it, but it's only like 5 bucks or so. Be sure to follow the yamaha book if that's your problem, there is a few important things you need to do with the cdi rotor, which is the part the puller is needed for, and also the part the starter clutch is bolted to. A good symptom of a 'going bad' starter clutch is that sort of clunking sound while the electric starter is activated. This is a common thing on the warrior motor unfortunately, but the repair isn't so bad besides the gasket cleanup on the left case cover.

 

[sykowarrior357]

which one of these parts is the one that wears out and causes that slapping sound? mine makes this sound also and i would like to get it fixed...

 

[bomber315]

6 & 9 cause that slamming sound when you crank it over.... youll **** when you see how expensive they are.... about a month ago i tried to get the guy at raptoroneway.com to make a oneway bearing for the warrior and he didnt think there was any interest... but he did say if i got enough people banded together he would consider it.....

 

[sykowarrior357]

6 & 9 cause that slamming sound when you crank it over.... youll **** when you see how expensive they are.... about a month ago i tried to get the guy at raptoroneway.com to make a oneway bearing for the warrior and he didnt think there was any interest... but he did say if i got enough people banded together he would consider it.....

6 and 9?? oh thats great....thats gonna cost a **** load...
yea i wish L&A made one for the warriors i would be buying one...

 

[boxhead]

They are 150 combined from south seattle sports plaza, but you should only have to replace the one way assembly. You don't have to replace the idler gear unless it's really chewed up. It's gonna have wear, but don't replace it unless it's really gouged up where the starter clutch slides. If your idler gear is good you'll only be spending 80 or so. You'll need a gasket for the stator/left case cover too, don't forget to pick up one of those. I found it kind of humorous that the special tool is the cheapy in this scenario. You'll need someone with a impact to break the torx screws out of the cdi magneto, they are both threadlocked and punched in there. You have to do the same when you reinstall them - clean them good, use the blue threadlocker, torque them in, and then hit the ends with a punch to make sure they can't back out from vibration or the magnet. After that just oil the hell out of everything and throw it all back in there, and get back to workin hard at breaking it again. If you have a lot of stretch in the cam chain this would be a great time to replace it, it's right behind all of this crap. It's actually a easy fix, the money and gasket cleaning sucks though.

 

[bomber315]

yeah ive seen where most people on the internet say all you need to do is replace the oneway.... my dealer (who is straight forward and sells me parts at cost) said it would be foolish to replace one and nothe the other... he could be wrong though....

 

[boxhead]

It just depends on the amount of wear and how early you fix it from when it starts making the sound. If you let it go to the point that the clutch doesn't even engage and the starter free spins, than it's probably heavily scratched.

 

[sykowarrior357]

so then its just number 9? that is most likely needing replaced and only replace number 6 if it shows signs of wear? these starter clutch components and the stator is pretty much the only thing ive never replaced everything else, cam,cam chain,valves,seals,guides,valve adjusters,cam chain guides,low end,piston kit,bore, honed its pretty much a rebuilt engine...its just when you turn it over it makes a good bit of slapping sound and doesnt seem to turn over as fast or smoothly as it should. i have a flywheel puller thankfully...

 

[bomber315]

i have another friend that told me to turn up the idle to lessen the beating... seems to work... you might just want to try that and see what you think

 

[91dime]

The warriors that had the pull start also had a decompression cam on the exhaust rocker cover. If you look up the 80's models you'll notice the cover had a little switch that slightly opened the exhaust valve to make it easy to pull start, that could be a issue if you don't have one. The crank should free spin when spun counterclockwise, so you might have to check the starter clutch. Me and my best friend have both went through one in less than five seasons, so I wouldn't doubt if it's bad. You'll need the yamaha flywheel puller to get to it, but it's only like 5 bucks or so. Be sure to follow the yamaha book if that's your problem, there is a few important things you need to do with the cdi rotor, which is the part the puller is needed for, and also the part the starter clutch is bolted to. A good symptom of a 'going bad' starter clutch is that sort of clunking sound while the electric starter is activated. This is a common thing on the warrior motor unfortunately, but the repair isn't so bad besides the gasket cleanup on the left case cover.

I have never herd of a decompression cam, Ill have to look on the bike and see if it has it. Do I open it and when I get the bike started do I close it?

 

[DeadLastRacing]

the decompression cam lever is part of the actual cam or cam gear (if its anything like a Mojave's) so there is no manual opening or closing of it, it works off of momentum. I could be wrong, but that how it was on our Kawasaki.

 

[91dime]

Oh, I did not know that. Well when I pull it, it does feel like there is a ton of compression. Does the decompression cam open when it is being started by the electric starter also?

Another question, I dont have a battery in the bike currently, I tried using a battery charger to start it but it didnt have enough juice. Is it ok to use my truck to jump it? I have herd that i is, and that it isnt.

 

[boxhead]

The decompression cam is a small switch that clicks manually on the exhaust rocker cover, not on the cam or gear, and after you give it a pull I believe it returns to how it was. I don't think it's like the mojave's. The spring tension keeps it in the on position I believe, then the rocker pushing the spring down disables it. That's what it looks like on the part catalog, just a simple little lever that opens the valve a hair. Its combined with the cover actually, so it would be just a cover on the later warriors/rappys. It should work with the electric starter too if you turn it on. As for giving a jump to the battery with a car, I don't know. Just buy a new one, a battery that got that discharged is sure to fail you soon. At least ours are only 20 and last a couple years as opposed to the sealed batteries on the newer machines that cost up to 60 and die every year if you don't take good care of it always. Remember to charge them for a while after filling them, they are only at like 75% charge actually. If you keep the water level at full and don't let it discharge ever they can last over 5 years, my friend still has the oem running strong from a 03 warrior, that asshole lmao.