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olliepop2005

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well i know i need a thicker oil for a 6 hr and it was eather a havoline are penzoil hd 30 i think penzoil would that be good r no
 
Just put some gear oil in it! (lol im just joking dont do that) Get some 5w50 maybe synthetic it doesnt matter. If your warrior is mostly stock I wouldnt put synthetic because it wont make that much of a difference and plus it costs a lot more. If you get some oil you should stick with kind.


I would also think about putting an oil cooler on your machine. (Read in Tutorials section)
 
is 5 w 50 thicker and i think i do have synthetic yamalube to thin for 6 hr but yea if wats a good brand and if i did get penzoil hd 30 would it mess up n e thing are would it work
 
I run Castrol 20-50 in mine . I know most people dont use car oil. There are no harmful additives as of yet in the Castrol 20-50............

I've been doin it since 1990...........I just changed my cluch last year.........and I think it mostly was from weakened springs.

I usually change it every 20 hours or so............it seems to hold its viscostiy well.
 
i run hd30 in my bike with no prolbum it dont break down i have not had a prolbum yet with it but im getting my oil cooler out on to so that will help more when i get my bike back togather
 
You want to run a good motorcycle synthetic, for the price it is worth it, it will outlast regular oils 5 times longer. You can get amsoil in 20w 50. Synthetic is far superior to any regular motor oil out there. Amsoil (or any good motorcycle synthetic for that matter) will not break down as fast and will allow for smoother shifts etc, even on a stock machine it makes a diffrence. It is slightly thinner but its better.
 
I'm Not trying to to strart a oil argument here. I know this article is old
But its hard to find any real testing of oils that was done by somone other than the company try to sell there oil............but it does make for a interesting read.

http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm
 
I'm Not trying to to strart a oil argument here. I know this article is old
But its hard to find any real testing of oils that was done by somone other than the company try to sell there oil............but it does make for a interesting read.

http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm
Click to expand...

What people write and experience are 2 diffrent things,

When running amsoil i noticed better more consistant shifts, faster revs, smoother operation from the gear box, easier shifts and a cooler running condition.

On regular motor oil all of the above were significantly reduced, and then i ran a synthetic car oil, 2 weeks later i was needing a new clutch, went back to amsoil after new plates and never had a problem.

Same goes for my dad in his yz250, ran regular motor oils it was ok, switched to a car synthetic and burned a clutch in no time, now hes running a regular gear oil for motorcycles and has no problems.
 
[quote:a9w6ch19]I'm Not trying to to strart a oil argument here. I know this article is old
But its hard to find any real testing of oils that was done by somone other than the company try to sell there oil............but it does make for a interesting read.

http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm
Click to expand...

What people write and experience are 2 diffrent things,

When running amsoil i noticed better more consistant shifts, faster revs, smoother operation from the gear box, easier shifts and a cooler running condition.

On regular motor oil all of the above were significantly reduced, and then i ran a synthetic car oil, 2 weeks later i was needing a new clutch, went back to amsoil after new plates and never had a problem.

Same goes for my dad in his yz250, ran regular motor oils it was ok, switched to a car synthetic and burned a clutch in no time, now hes running a regular gear oil for motorcycles and has no problems.[/quote:a9w6ch19]

I guessed you just proved me wrong. Sorry but I have always been taught the cheap way from my father and i'm starting to hate it. I have been running valvoline ATV 10w40 oil and I just replaced my clutch. I should look into purchasing some Amsoil for my bike. Being as it is old and I'm going to need new rings soon anyways.
 
Like I said....I wasnt trying to start a oil argument.

I've always heard good things about amsoil.
They also make an excellent gas additive that I knwo for a fact cleans
valves and pistons like no other!

Like I said, the article is old. I mostly tossed it up there for the visosity break down chart at the end............where the synthetics are on top actually.

As for the ATv oil burning up a clutch . Even if it was a cheaper name it shouldnt have.
AS for anyone else that would read the article in the thread I posted...........

I wouldnt use any car oils in my quad that arnt 20-50 weight.
And they must not have the Energy Conserving symbol on them.
I dont think I've seen a lighter weight that didnt have it.

All oils that have that symbol. Contain the additives that hurt your clutch.
DSWwarrior350.......thats most likly what hurt your bikes when ya used it.

Like I said I wasnt trying to prove anything............just be informative.
At the time it was written I'm dont rember if they were using the additives in oil that they are using now.

Actually the reason I found that link and some others is when a buddy told me I was going ta kill my clutch running the castrol. I toldem I been doin it for 15 years..............He laughed.

So I wondered why it lived and read around the oil argument forums for a few hours...........
 
What do I look for on the Castrol 20W50 bottle? I went to the local parts house and checked out a bottle and couldn't find any kind of special seal/symbol on it denoting Energy Converving. There was one round logo with "API" markings, but nothing stood out. I even compared the 20W50's bottle to Castrols 5W30 and still couldn't point out any differences in the labels between the two.

I would definitely like to switch to Castrol since it's 1/2 price of the oil I have been buying.

Thanks for the article. Excellent reading.
~Ronbo
 
I've been thinking of using either Castrol Syntec or Mobil1 in 20W-50 when I do my oil change. Seems the auto synthetics run close to the same price as the non synthetic motorcycle oils. Also here is a story Sport Rider did a couple years ago about oils.
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/
Looks like the motorcycle oils are better than auto oils except the auto synthetics are almost as good as the Top motorcycle oils. I think it is from 2003. I have also heard that the energy conserving oils have additives that can hurt your clutch.
 
I've been thinking of using either Castrol Syntec or Mobil1 in 20W-50 when I do my oil change. Seems the auto synthetics run close to the same price as the non synthetic motorcycle oils. Also here is a story Sport Rider did a couple years ago about oils.
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/
Looks like the motorcycle oils are better than auto oils except the auto synthetics are almost as good as the Top motorcycle oils. I think it is from 2003. I have also heard that the energy conserving oils have additives that can hurt your clutch.
Click to expand...


Either way car oils are not formulated to take the stress of a wet clutch system. If anything they are designed to do the exact oppposite, they have friction modifiers, that dont allow the plates to do their job. If your going to run car oil stick to something basic no synthetics, but your best bet is to spend the extra dollar and buy some motorcycle oil.
 
From what I understand it is the shock loads from the gears in the transmission that stresses the oil. They can sheer the oil and cause the viscosity of a low quality oil to break down. I'm thinking it is the energy conserving oils that have the additives that hurt the clutch. I may get a motorcycle oil just to be safe but niether article made any mention of there being things in the auto oil that wasn't in the motorcycle oil but there are higher amounts of some things in the motorcycle oil(ZDDP,magnesium,etc). I gather motorcycle oils may be formulated to better withstand the demands the transmission puts on them. I believe the first article did say not to use energy conserving though.
 
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