oil whats the best kind

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warrior333

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im looking for a thicker oil right now i run castrol 10w 40 i have heard that alot of people run diesel motor oil does this really help with clutch performance and will it help seal things better and make it quit smokin so much cuz i need a head job but dont have the money so im hoping a thicker oil will do a litle better but im worried about ruining something esle or will it be fine and wat should i run thanx
 
There is no oil that will make any significant change to your topend issues. I wouldn't try any oil additves for old engines as there is no telling how it could react with the clutch.

Have you considered just putting in a new set of rings ($30) and a lower cylinder gasket. It wouldn't be a full topend, but could help with the issue. SInce your worrying about ruining something, severely bad rings would be it.
 
yes im gonna do that to but i heard the deisel oil was better for the clutch
 
yes thats true,my dads a diesel mechanic and thats what we run in my warrior,very good for clutch and tranny parts.
 
my dad was saying it may not be good for the bearings but it seems like iit would be better for it
 
this is what I head from a old time hot rod car mechnic, use only oils from Pennsylvania oil wells, use only single weight not multi weight oils, multy weight oils can breakdown under high heat condition, and what every you use change it often, and I know leaking rings can play hell on motor oils, and a warrior motor can get very very hot, its air cooled so the oil has to help cool motor, clutch and gears
 
ive allways used rotella 15w40 motor oil in all my wet clutch engines for years it comes in gallon size jugs everyware cheap & its great oil...dont be fooled this is the best...
 
ive allways used rotella 15w40 motor oil in all my wet clutch engines for years it comes in gallon size jugs everyware cheap & its great oil...dont be fooled this is the best...
 
Most diesel oils are safe for wet-clutch applications. However, they do have a higher friction coefficient (i.e. not as "slippery") as typical automotive oils.

The reason being is that the majority of diesel engines have roller-bearing lifters, they need a little friction to operate properly. Otherwise the roller doesnt roll, it just slides, and causes premature wear on the lifter assembly.
 
Most diesel oils are safe for wet-clutch applications. However, they do have a higher friction coefficient (i.e. not as "slippery") as typical automotive oils.

The reason being is that the majority of diesel engines have roller-bearing lifters, they need a little friction to operate properly. Otherwise the roller doesnt roll, it just slides, and causes premature wear on the lifter assembly.
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This is why in my book you should run only motorcycle oils... even the cheap ones are better than most others.
 
Roller bearings and clutch plates are a world apart. The vast majority of modern fiber clutch plates arent effected by EC rated oils, and/or automotive synthetics.

The diesel rated oils arent as slippery, and they will definitely work great with any wet clutch, but because it isnt as 'slippery', you'll sacrifice smoother shifting.

This is one of the reasons I like Mobil-1 10w30 in my Raptors and my bikes, doesnt bother the clutch, and the shifting is very smooth.

Of course, some guys dont care, and are happy as long as it shifts... lol.
 
Roller bearings and clutch plates are a world apart. The vast majority of modern fiber clutch plates arent effected by EC rated oils, and/or automotive synthetics.

The diesel rated oils arent as slippery, and they will definitely work great with any wet clutch, but because it isnt as 'slippery', you'll sacrifice smoother shifting.

This is one of the reasons I like Mobil-1 10w30 in my Raptors and my bikes, doesnt bother the clutch, and the shifting is very smooth.

Of course, some guys dont care, and are happy as long as it shifts... lol.
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The warriors clutch isnt really all that modern though... i dont think they have changed the plates since the early 80's
 
The warriors clutch isnt really all that modern though... i dont think they have changed the plates since the early 80's
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Its still considered a modern design, a lot of stuff from the 80's still is ;)

The material in those fiber plates has changed at least 3 times in that period that I know of (probably more). Manufacturers are always making changes and upgrading materials for consumables like that. Sometimes the part#'s change, sometimes they dont.. Yamaha, Suzuki, Honda, etc, they all do it.

Generally it was the old fiber plates that had a problem with certain synthetics and/or EC type oils, or misc oil additives. It wasnt very many either. The main problem was with certain oil components such as molybdenum and graphite, they would get 'absorbed' and/or cling to the old style fiber plates. It didnt take long for them to become useless and slip like crazy.

I've seen a few plates that ended up like that from using the 1st Castrol Syntec put out (this was quite a long time ago, the current stuff has changed since then). Even though it was marketed as a "Synthetic", it was still a Group III base-stock (i.e. dino oil), some of the additives they used to increase wear resistance would react poorly with certain fiber plates (a couple Hondas particularly). Slip-O-rama within 50 miles of use.

Most manufacturers have change their materials for their fiber plates, not to mention the old additives for oil are now restricted or just no longer used.

These days, when I see somebody get slippage from switching to a synthetic, its usually nothing more than an already worn clutch that the synth oil is exacerbating. This happens sometimes on Bandit 1200's, and a simple fix is adding 1 Barnett heavy-duty clutch spring, problem solved. Of course, some guys just put in new plates too, as they were probably due anyways.

Diesel oil doesnt shift as smoothly as I peronally would like, but it does work good for wet clutch applications. A lot of guys run Rotella Synthetic 5w40 in their Bandits on my own site without issue, as well as a lot of SV owners I know. Its cheap and it works good, hard to go wrong with that.

I've been running Mobil-1 10w30 in my bikes for a long time without issue. It also went in both my Raptors on their 1st oil change, they shift great now, and will benefit from Mobil excellent protection.
 
well the book says to run 10w 40 so isnt 10w 30 to thin
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If it was a conventional dino oil, I would say probably. That one of the advantages of a good synthetic like Mobil or Amsoil, youre still gonna get superior wear protection and film-strength even with a slightly thinner oil, plus the added benefit of a little more HP.

Remember, the 10w is the starting (cold) viscosity, the 30w (or 40w) is the opertating temp viscosity. Their isnt a huge difference between 30w and 40w anyways.
 
oo ok i never really understood what those numbers meant beside thicker and thinner
 
i work at a mobil one oil changing place...its great i can sometime get half quart bottles that they are gonna just throw away and use them in my quad...although i havent used them yet cause i havent done an oil change in a little while...i got plenty to put in........also does a raptor 350 need to have il put in after every other ride?? it does blue smoke between shifts when riding hard and i get the feeling it is burning oil any thoughts????
 
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