oil changes
- Thread starter bnguyen85
- Start date
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2fast4urass2005
Well-Known Member
It all depends on how the weather is for me and how the ground is dusty`muddy``etc; the more dusty it is i change mine more often.And some time I just do the sae as yamarider and eyeball it...
warriorcliff77
Well-Known Member
I do mine every 8 hours of ride time. Most of my riding is pit/sand/superdusty. Ever since my clogged drain screen, and oil starved top end, i'm super worried about it happening again. Oil is cheap, heads,valves and pistons are much,much more.......
Air filter is cleaned and re-oiled religously every 2 rides.
Air filter is cleaned and re-oiled religously every 2 rides.
dshiznit
Well-Known Member
yea i just kinda keep an eye on how it looks like when it starts turnin black ill change it.
bbbthreat
Well-Known Member
I change mine every 20 hours or so. Of course I ride in very dusty conditions and sand (Oceano Dunes). Besides its cheap insurance to change your oil instead of replacing internal parts should they ever go bad due to neglect.
dswwarrior350
Well-Known Member
once a year running amsoil.
Any other oil when it starts to look black or gets past about 4 months whether its black or not.
Any other oil when it starts to look black or gets past about 4 months whether its black or not.
griff
Well-Known Member
Usually change it once a year, unless I encounter some unusually extreme situation. Clean out the filter, then put some fresh Mobil-1 10w30, and its good to go.
DeathShadow
Well-Known Member
On my Warrior I changed it every 20 Hours or so; the filter gets changed every time as well.
On my YFZ the oil and filter gets changed every 2 rides.
I run Amsoil 20W50 Motorcycle Oil in both machines.
On my YFZ the oil and filter gets changed every 2 rides.
I run Amsoil 20W50 Motorcycle Oil in both machines.
yamaharaptor350
Well-Known Member
Once every 2 months... depending on what hte riding conditions are like.... I also run a full synthetic amsoil
warlord
Well-Known Member
Every season for me using esso xd-3 0w-40 synthetic. This stuff is designed for heavy equipment and can really take a beating. Its pretty cheap too.
DeathShadow
Well-Known Member
wow that is quite frequent and isn't amsoil pretty expensive?
oh also what type of filter do you use?[/quote:taidzvdh]
Yeah but when I have torn my motor down to do upgrades my components look brand spanking new. There is almost no wear marks on anything after 2 years + of riding. To me the oil changes and price for high quality oil are worth it!!!! Keeps my motor in "new" condition, lasts a ton longer, valves stay in spec much longer, and doesn't lose as much power over the years of use.
I use K&N oil filters.
Once a year or twice a season is not good at all for the motor. Oil doesn’t just degrade with hours. Oil breaks down with time, heat, & contaminants as well. If the oil looks dirty on your finger then drop it!!! Then when your motor needs to be rebuilt after lots of reliable hours spent on it you will probably only need a set of rings....
DeathShadow
Well-Known Member
Gotta watch that stuff - a lot of oils are NOT wet clutch safe.
griff
Well-Known Member
Sorry Death, but thats a myth intentionally perpetuated by the manufacturers of motorcycle-specific oils.
Only certain models of motorcycles reported problems with the clutch material(s) and using oils with friction modifiers, and/or labeled Energy Conserving. Mostly back in the mid 90's.
In the past certain elements found in some synthetic and/or EC rated oils (particularly molybdenum and/or graphite), would soak into or bond with certain types of fiberous clutch plates and cause severe slippage (these elements are no longer commonly used anyways, as current oil mandates dont allow for their use).
Current common Yamaha, Honda, or Suzuki clutch plates, or any modern fiberous clutch plates arent affected anyways.
However if an EC oil (or a synthetic) is added to a bike/atv with an already worn clutch, yes the finer lubrication properties may reveal an existing problem. Its a worn clutch issue, not a FM/EC or synthetic issue.
In some of those cases, adding a HD clutch spring will alleviate the problem. If the clutch is quite warn, then time for new plates.
DeathShadow
Well-Known Member
I don't know how to explain the several clutch slippage issues we have had here with car oil in the case. Switched to oil with out the detergents and problem solved.... Dunno man.
warlord
Well-Known Member
Car oil is much different from heavy duty engine oil. Pretty well any oil designed for diesels is a safe bet with a wet clutch system especially if they are allison c-4 rated which is a wet clutch specification.
