gruss
Well-Known Member
I need some new grips. Are there any better than the others? Any special design for comfort? are they all the same size? Sorry for the NU BE questions.
New grips
- Thread starter gruss
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hatfield44
Well-Known Member
I don't really know if there is any better than the other. They do make different sizes. Make sure you get atv grips, or you will have to buy two sets if they are designed for a twist throttle. I would figure you have 7/8" bars (thats what stock warrior bars are). I got grips for my LTR from www.motogrip.net; super comfy.
DeadLastRacing
Well-Known Member
I just went with what looked cool.
You just have to try the different types and use your own experience with them. Some people swear by scott hurricanes and won't ride with anything else, you couldn't pay me to put another set of those on any of my bikes.
I personally like the ProGrip triple density grips the best, they are very grippy, comfortable, dampen vibrations and shock, but they're $15, sort on the higher end of pricing, and they probably won't last as long as a cheaper single compound grip. The dual-density ProGrips are almost as good, and cost about $9 for a pair. Just not quite as cushy and sticky as the triples.
One thing i've found though, is that generally the cheaper single density grips like scott hurricanes are more harsh on your hands, and also turn your hands black after half an hour of riding.
One strong suggestion i want to make though, is that when you go to mount the new ones, none of the grip-specific glues have ever worked for me for more than a day. I've tried all the tricks, and personally, here's the trick that works for me. Wrap the handlebars at the ends where the grip will be with a couple layers of tightly stretched electrical tape. When you get ready to slide the grips on, pour a little gas into the grip so that it's a little wet, not dripping and soaked. Then slide the grip on (they will slide on much easier if you puncture a little slit in the end for the air to escape). Let them sit like this for at least an hour, to give the gas time to dry, and they should stick pretty good. For me, the gas seemed to melt the compound in the grip so it kinda fuses itself to the tape, and that tape isn't going anywhere. I always put a couple bands of safety wire on them just to be sure, nothing annoys me more than loose grips, and it can really mess you up if one slides off going into a corner and you've got a handful of air instead of bars and brake lever... been there, done that.
If that seems complicated and you're unsure what i mean, just ask.
And any kind of grip for atv's, snowmobiles, jet skis etc will work on atvs, it just needs to be for 7/8 bars without twist throttle, which is the universal size 99% of the time.
I personally like the ProGrip triple density grips the best, they are very grippy, comfortable, dampen vibrations and shock, but they're $15, sort on the higher end of pricing, and they probably won't last as long as a cheaper single compound grip. The dual-density ProGrips are almost as good, and cost about $9 for a pair. Just not quite as cushy and sticky as the triples.
One thing i've found though, is that generally the cheaper single density grips like scott hurricanes are more harsh on your hands, and also turn your hands black after half an hour of riding.
One strong suggestion i want to make though, is that when you go to mount the new ones, none of the grip-specific glues have ever worked for me for more than a day. I've tried all the tricks, and personally, here's the trick that works for me. Wrap the handlebars at the ends where the grip will be with a couple layers of tightly stretched electrical tape. When you get ready to slide the grips on, pour a little gas into the grip so that it's a little wet, not dripping and soaked. Then slide the grip on (they will slide on much easier if you puncture a little slit in the end for the air to escape). Let them sit like this for at least an hour, to give the gas time to dry, and they should stick pretty good. For me, the gas seemed to melt the compound in the grip so it kinda fuses itself to the tape, and that tape isn't going anywhere. I always put a couple bands of safety wire on them just to be sure, nothing annoys me more than loose grips, and it can really mess you up if one slides off going into a corner and you've got a handful of air instead of bars and brake lever... been there, done that.
If that seems complicated and you're unsure what i mean, just ask.
And any kind of grip for atv's, snowmobiles, jet skis etc will work on atvs, it just needs to be for 7/8 bars without twist throttle, which is the universal size 99% of the time.
gruss
Well-Known Member
Thanks, YamaRider What do you do with the safety wire?
hatfield44
Well-Known Member
I am sure he just wraps it around the grips tightly once they are on the bars to help hold them on. I have a buddy that never uses any adhesive, he just wires them.
gruss
Well-Known Member
Ok Thanks, I wasn't sure if there was a groove in the bars that held the wire or something. I have heard of guys spraying the inside of the grips with hairspray then when it drys, they stick. Might give that a try. How about Oury grips?
yamahaquad350
Well-Known Member
iv used silicone :
... the first time i used grip glue my grips kinda melted lol...idk they were soft grips though...im going medium from now on
... the first time i used grip glue my grips kinda melted lol...idk they were soft grips though...im going medium from now onwarriorguy5
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i personally love renthal and pro taper dimond grips there soooo confortable
gruss said:
Just a couple bands of stainless wire around each grip, usually about 3/4" from each end or wherever there is a convenient groove in the grip to kinda hide the wire. Twist the wire around itself (I use vice grips instead of the expensive safety wire pliers). Make it tight enough that it compresses the grip, but not too tight. Too tight and either the wire breaks or you can cut through a soft grip if you have good safety wire.
After you twist the wire and get it good and tight, cut off all but about 1/4" of the twisted part, and tuck it in where you won't get your hand jabbed by it (or if you're good, you can get that 1/4" to actually jab into the grip, so it's no longer exposed, never to be seen again)
