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griff

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Some of you guys know, I was going to build a full system for my Raptor via Dale at Holeshot Performance. Unfortunately, both Dale and myself are swamped with other projects right now, and neither of us have the time. SO, I decided to make a few phone calls ;)

I was given a Hindle Full Exhaust for my Rap' courtesy of one of my old sponsors... SS header and pipe, and a 14" Full Titanium muffler (Can, Core, and End-caps, are all Ti), with sparky.

The whole system is as light as hell, I dont think it weighs more than a few pounds. The workmanship is excellent, and it sounds MEAN.

hindle1.jpg


hindle2.jpg


hindle3.jpg


Dale made me a needle for the carb, which should be here tomorrow, and I'm just waiting on a K&N clamp-on and OuterWears from another of my old sponsors. I've made a velocity stack to accommodate the K&N, and I'm gonna add a 2" snorkel to the airbox, which should flow nicely.

I'll post more pics as the stuff gets here if anyones interested.
 
Thanks guys :)


How much is it and where can i get one?

'Parts Unlimited' is a Hindle distributor, so pretty much any ATV/MC shop can order them. Goto www.hindle.com , and check their distributors lin at the top.

I can tell ya right now, they aint cheap!
 
That and it's a steped header design.. ******* cool!! I bet that will add some HP. I want one.
 
That and it's a steped header design.. ******* cool!!

Good eye Jason, you nailed it :D

Stepped headers have some very good advantages, and no real drawbacks in most situations.
 
OK... I did some jetting today, with interesting results :D

The slide in this particular 36mm carb is the same exact slide used in the 2nd generation Bandit 1200 Mikuni's (also 36mm). The OEM needles between the two are identical in length and clip position, and the taper/reduction is only a thousandths different in a place or two.

Dale checked all of his specs, and sent me one of his Bandit 1200 Stage-2 needles, and it works awesome, LOL! 150 main, 3rd notch on the needle, and 3 turns out (stock pilot). Its pretty close for jetting. I left the airbox lid off, as I only have the stock dual-layer foam filter right now, which really sucks ass (waiting for a K&N to get here).

With the K&N, I'll put the lid back on, and add 2" hole/snorkel, and fine tune from there.

Love the sound of the Hindle when get'n on the throttle. It sounds mean, and doesnt get crazy loud.
 
big gun evos also use step designed headers wonder wha are some advantages any one want to explain never really herd of it untill i put a evo on my friends warrior and was like woah interesing .. lol
 
big gun evos also use step designed headers wonder wha are some advantages any one want to explain never really herd of it untill i put a evo on my friends warrior and was like woah interesing .. lol

Yup, one of the reasons Evo X's have excellent powerband characteristics.

I'll cover just the basics, and a very simplified explanation.

One of the big advatages of a stepped header system, is that the initial part of the primary (being a smaller diameter), tends to be closer to the size of the exhaust port itself. The advantage of this is maintaining (high) velocity, which in turn creates a nice even exhaust pulse. It reduces exhaust gas expansion and cooling, which prevents turbulence in the pipe.

That really helps maintain torque across the entire powerband, and prevents a situation called 'reversion' (which is bad). Reversion is (very basically) erratic exhaust gas pulses, caused by immediate expansion and cooling of the exhaust pulse (usually from a large diameter primary being mated to a small exhaust port).

That creates nasty turbulence, and makes the 'pulses' kinda pile on top of each other, and actually cause the pulse resonance to 'reverse' back up the pipe. That cause a loss in velocity, major turbulence (loosely: real backpressure).

The key to a good stepped design is that the initial primary 'step' be the right length, before going into a larger diameter pipe. By doing this, you maintain good low-end and mid-range - i.e. the lower exhaust pulse frequency fits inside the step portion of the header, maintaining, what is called 'scavenging'.

The next benefit is a good top-end punch. When the engine is really revving, and the exhaust pulses are really close together and tight, and FAST, they sail right through the stepped part of the header into the larger diameter pipe, where theres a lot less restriction and it just flows great.

Again, this is the reason the 'step' has to be the right length. You have to find the happy medium - i.e. not so long that it chokes the top-end of the powerband, and not so short that it loses low/mid range.

Thats more or less a VERY basic explanation, and as simple as I can make it without being totally technically wrong... LOL.
 
[quote:ggu0piv7]big gun evos also use step designed headers wonder wha are some advantages any one want to explain never really herd of it untill i put a evo on my friends warrior and was like woah interesing .. lol

Yup, one of the reasons Evo X's have excellent powerband characteristics.

I'll cover just the basics, and a very simplified explanation.

One of the big advatages of a stepped header system, is that the initial part of the primary (being a smaller diameter), tends to be closer to the size of the exhaust port itself. The advantage of this is maintaining (high) velocity, which in turn creates a nice even exhaust pulse. It reduces exhaust gas expansion and cooling, which prevents turbulence in the pipe.

That really helps maintain torque across the entire powerband, and prevents a situation called 'reversion' (which is bad). Reversion is (very basically) erratic exhaust gas pulses, caused by immediate expansion and cooling of the exhaust pulse (usually from a large diameter primary being mated to a small exhaust port).

That creates nasty turbulence, and makes the 'pulses' kinda pile on top of each other, and actually cause the pulse resonance to 'reverse' back up the pipe. That cause a loss in velocity, major turbulence (loosely: real backpressure).

The key to a good stepped design is that the initial primary 'step' be the right length, before going into a larger diameter pipe. By doing this, you maintain good low-end and mid-range - i.e. the lower exhaust pulse frequency fits inside the step portion of the header, maintaining, what is called 'scavenging'.

The next benefit is a good top-end punch. When the engine is really revving, and the exhaust pulses are really close together and tight, and FAST, they sail right through the stepped part of the header into the larger diameter pipe, where theres a lot less restriction and it just flows great.

Again, this is the reason the 'step' has to be the right length. You have to find the happy medium - i.e. not so long that it chokes the top-end of the powerband, and not so short that it loses low/mid range.

Thats more or less a VERY basic explanation, and as simple as I can make it without being totally technically wrong... LOL.[/quote:ggu0piv7]

Wow Griff you just explained why every Harley tuner hates drag pipes. ;D
 

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