Just rebuilt my warrior, still wont run right

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jtyler1998

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I bought my warrior back in august to rebuild it in winter. I got a new cam, cam sprocket, carb rebuild kit and rings. After putting it back togather I found that it also needed a starter clutch so I just decided to pull start it with another atv. When pulling it it back fires alot but eventually starts. It idles really rough and dies if given gas. It also seems to be getting really hot.
I didnt replace the timing chain and when setting timing I could never get the marks exactly lined up. I could only get them within about a half inch of each other. So I was thinking the timing could be off? My warrior is all stock so I dont think it is a jetting issue. Also wondering about the parking break senser. It has a aftermarket clutch lever on it but I couldnt find the wires for the senser. It is doing the same thing it was doing when I got it and the guy that sold it to me could never get it running. I dont really know what I should do next.
Any help is appreciated, thanks
 
When I got mine it was doing the same thing, it had a busted intake boot and the parking brake had a loose connection or something so i just pushed the parking brake in and replaced the boot and it fixed it.
 
X2 on the lean.

Gotta run a small wire through the ENTIRE accel pump circuit, remove the pilot jet and do the same too. Remove the mixture screw and clean the pilot circuit in the carb body while it's out. Must be spotless inside the passages.

Just hosing it out with a can of cleaner won't do it.

Do a search here on plugged jets. It happens often.

Then chase and verify the park brake wire issue.
 
Checked the intake boot. It looks good. When trying to start it I didnt have the air box on it so that could be why its running lean. Ive been looking for the wiring to the parking brake and cant find the wires. Does any one know what color the wires are? Also, checked the cam chain tensioner and it was all the way in and the cam chain was still a little loose so I was wondering if that could be causing some of my problems
 
MotoArts said:
X2 on the lean.

Gotta run a small wire through the ENTIRE accel pump circuit, remove the pilot jet and do the same too. Remove the mixture screw and clean the pilot circuit in the carb body while it's out. Must be spotless inside the passages.

Just hosing it out with a can of cleaner won't do it.

Do a search here on plugged jets. It happens often.

Then chase and verify the park brake wire issue.
Click to expand...

I will take The carb back apart and run a wire through it. I only used a can of carb cleaner when I rebuilt it. The parking brake was deleted before I got it and I cant seem to locate any of the wiring to it.
 
jtyler1998 said:
I will take The carb back apart and run a wire through it. I only used a can of carb cleaner when I rebuilt it. The parking brake was deleted before I got it and I cant seem to locate any of the wiring to it.
Click to expand...

Careful not to break it off in any of the passages. Don't go too far into the accel pump passage (it runs through the bottom of the fuel bowl) or you'll be hatin' life.

My carb had zero green/yellow/white pond scum in it, yet somehow both passages got funk in them from sitting.

Good luck.
 
Ok, so I cleaned the carb and it didnt fix my problems. I've decided to order a starter clutch and timing chain before I try anything else. I found out my warrior is actually a 1992 instead of a 1998. My wiring diagrams dont show a parking break on that year so I guess that isnt a problem. Also, for some reason there is no oil reaching the top end. The oil pump worked fine before and I didnt pay any attention to how I installed it so I think I might have installed it wrong. So my next question is: is there a certain way the oil pump parts need to be installed for it to work properly?
 
Park brake switch, #24. It hooked to somewhere at some time:
http://www.partforyamaha.com/pages/OemParts?aribrand=YAM#/Yamaha/WARRIOR_-_YFM350XD_-_1992/HANDLE_SWITCH-LEVER/YFM350XD_%281992_ALL_TERRAIN_VEHICLE%29/HANDLE_SWITCH-LEVER_%28YFM350XD_-_1992%29
.
Oil pump should be a straightforward install:
http://www.partforyamaha.com/pages/...EHICLE)/HANDLE_SWITCH-LEVER_(YFM350XD_-_1992)
.
No top end lube will wipe your cam and rockers pronto. Rockers can and will gall and stick to the rocker shafts, causing the valves to hang open and contact the piston. Hope you didn't run it long, as in more than a few seconds.

How much black crud is laying in the bottom of the cases? Was the filter plugged? The passage in the clutch cover that directs oil upstairs is very, very small and may be plugged. Mine had a collapsed filter that strangled the top end lube flow, wiping out everything up top.

I would not let the engine fire until you find the oiling problem. Inspect the cam lobes for heat damage while you're at it. The backfiring may be due to a bent valve(s).

Also, I don't understand "timing marks being a half inch off". Half inch...where? The chain may be a whole tooth off (maybe 2?).
 
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The cases should be pretty clean. I spit the cases to get out a cam pin and some washers the previous owner must have dropped in. the bottom of the cases were really dirty when I pulled them apart so I flushed them out with deisel.
The engine didnt run too long. Only for about ten seconds total. Luckily the rocker arms and cam all seem to be ok.i had poured some oil on everything when I installed it.
I am going to check out the oiling problem tomorrow to see what I can find
 
do you remember putting the o-rings and rubber around the guide pins when installing the cylinder and head??

I think the small bolt in the cylinder head that does not seem to hold anything on is for verifing oil pressure/ flow (it is on the intake side right of the valve cap)

bell ray assembly lube is what I use when I rebuild, its kinda like a paste and messy as hell
 
mine did something like that but it would idle perfectly and would die when u gave it any gas. mine was also the parking brake sensor. it sounds rich to me because of the back firing. but that could be because of the timeing notches not being aligned. i would fix that first and then see about ttrying other things.
 
Well its been awile since I have done anything to my warrior. I got a new starter clutch and a new cam chain and got them installed. I also got my oiling problem fixed. I had lost the pin that connects the gears in the oil pump. Im still waiting on a few other parts so I have been trying to find my parking brake wiring. My clymer manual doesnt show a parking sensor on the 90-96 models. But from what I have read all models have sensors.
So my next question is: can someone tell me what color the wires are for the parking sensor at the cdi. I cant find it at the front of the harness so I want to dis connect it near the cdi. I think it has been my main problem all along.
Any help is appreciated, thanks
 
Ok for the parking brake do you have the big bulky clutch lever with a parking brake if you do there should be two wires connected in top is parking brake bottom is clutch unplug them that will solve your parking brake issue and unplug the clutch and you can start in gear although not recommended and a bad starter clutch will cause a rough idle and cause it to cut when you give it gas because it will hang on the start and just cause issues so retry with those another thing is check spark if you have really spuratic spark try taking the plastics off and messing with the wiring harness a little bit
 
Road1420 said:
Ok for the parking brake do you have the big bulky clutch lever with a parking brake if you do there should be two wires connected in top is parking brake bottom is clutch unplug them that will solve your parking brake issue and unplug the clutch and you can start in gear although not recommended and a bad starter clutch will cause a rough idle and cause it to cut when you give it gas because it will hang on the start and just cause issues so retry with those another thing is check spark if you have really spuratic spark try taking the plastics off and messing with the wiring harness a little bit
Click to expand...
the guy who had it before me had removed the old lever and replaced it with a aftermarket one. i found the clutch sensor wires cut off down by the harness but could not find the brake sensor wiring. so i dont really know what has been done to the parking brake. i was thinking i could just find and disconnect it somewhere near the cdi. i just dont know what color the wires for it should be. i should be getting the rest of my parts and get them installed today. so hopefully by tonight i can get it started again and see if i can figure anything out.
 
Ok, so I got my last parts installed. Turned it over and got alot of back firing through the carb and exhaust. It started for about 3 seconds then died. It has really good spark and seems to be getting plenty of fuel. Timing is set perfect. Valves are adjusted. Carb just been rebuilt. and a new coil.
what could be causing this to happen?
 
what kind of spark you got do you have costant one after another spark or do you have a gap for a few seconds then strong blue spark and another gap
 
it has very strong constant blue spark.
also, it always seems to flood itself for some reason. after trying to start i will pull the plug and it is soaked with gas.
 
Well I think I have narrowed it down to a fuel issue. It has great spark and great compression.it seems to be getting too much gas because it is always fouling the plug. I think this is also causing the back firing.
What could cause this and what should I do to fix it
Any help is appreciated, thanks
 
carb being clogged up clean it throughly again and see also check your pilot and main jets for sizes maybe someone put a bigger one in at some point and also your needle jet check that and see where the c clip is at should beable to find references through out the forum for the jet sizes and slots for the needle jet in reference to to lean or to rich
 
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