Idle gets better when turning out, but bigger jet runs away!

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cupofjoe_84

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After letting the warrior warm up with stock 42.5 pilot jet, I tried turning it out and it got better the more I turned out. 4 turns out and I could blip the throttle pretty well, so I tried a bigger jet, 45. With that in, it idles way too high adjustments to the mixture screw do nothing. The screw that turns throttle higher is turned all the way out by the way so that is not the problem. I have tried the carb cleaner trick and cannot find any air leaks. I have a k&n like air filter and a D&G exhaust. I am confused because I thought too rich would stop it from idling high. Correct me if I am wrong, but turning fuel screw in makes a leaner condition.
 
Make sure your carb is sealing to the boot, and check the boot for cracking. Replace if it is. Make sure the o-ring in between isn't missing.
 
throttle cable hanging up?
Air/fuel screw should be 2 turns out on 90 - 04 and 1 1/4 turns out on 87-89
make sure the slide is not hanging up also
 
Thanks for the tips guys, I checked the o-ring and made sure the boot is crack free. I actually replaced that boot a year ago cuz it is an 87! When the carb is off the throttle seems to move very easily. Now I think the accelerator pump seems to fit kind of tight when I am putting the bowl back on, but I don't know what I can really do to that. Do you think this could be the problem and any suggestions?
 
My guess would be the cable(s) are too tight and won't allow it to idle. Or the shafts in the carb are gummed up and won't return all the way like they should
 
Another thread from years ago said that accelerator pump would probably not do this, but I could take off side and make sure it is not sticking for process of elimination. I will look at slide and cable today as well. Thanks for giving me something to look at guys.
 
The spring looks to be on backwards. It doesn't fit in the hole where the cable comes through. I believe it hooks to the arm itself and to that small peg just to the right of the spring in the picture. I dont have one to reference anymore but I know the spring is on there incorrectly. Not trying to be a smart ass so dont take this the wrong way, but taking a few pictures of what you are taking apart as you take it apart makes reassembly much easier. I take pictures if it is something I haven't taken apart before and then I don't have to guess where **** goes.
 
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Thanks guys, another forum is not responding at all. I think I figured it out and I agree with what was said. The green arrow in the picture is the thing that is supposed to be rotating clockwise with the aid of the spring. The blue arrow is where I am pretty sure the spring is supposed to go because it works perfectly. I think maybe the vacuum or gravity was making it drop before, but doing a poor job. I thought this was going to fix my idle problem, but I think I found something else. When I pull the choke slightly it idles down dramatically so I know air is coming in and I think it is because the K&N air filter needs cleaned and oiled. I try to be thorough for ppl who will search the forums later.
 
If you remove the choke assembly I believe you will find an o ring on it. Make sure the o ring isn't dried out or missing or damaged.
 
You guys are full of helpful hints, I actually did this though and the o-ring was fine. But for some reason it was coming out 2 clicks before and now it is only coming out 1. I think it is supposed to only do one so it feels like I fixed something lol. I will have to check in tomorrow and tell you if cleaning/ reoiling the filter helped. I am also going to put a stocking over the filter, kind of like a precharger for dusty conditions as I have read others doing the same.
 
The filter did not change anything so now I am stumped. It seems like something is wrong with the choke plunger then, but the o-ring looks fine. Now when I pull it out it doesn't change the idle speed. Wish I understood how this part works better.
 
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