I hate Carbs.......NEED HELP ASAP

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DeadLastRacing

DeadLastRacing

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but i love bread......anyways, this carb is running way rich, WTF. Its a stocker. Stock pipe with baffle in, stock air box with lid but running a slip in uni filter. Jets are at 145 main and 42.5 pilot. Needle clip is set in the middle. Its crazy rich though. Gas going into the air boot style.....any help. Also have two questions, what is this
PA230001-1.jpg
and this screw for, and how many turns out should they be. Thanks all!
 
Left is the A/F screw... looks like its about to fall out. I'll let one of the other guys tell ya how many turns out from bottom it should be (I dont remember on that carb).

The screw on the right is float bowl drain screw.
 
Looks like the fuel screw is backed out a little more than it should be, that could be the reason it's running too rich. That fuel screw will only affect the mix at idle though, so if it's constantly rich, that's only part of the issue.

for the stock setting, turn the screw all the way in clockwise (gently, don't smoke it down, you'll break the tip of the needle off in the jet), and then back the screw out 2 turns. Stock setting is either 2 or 2.5 turns out from the full in position.
 
I have that screw at 2 turns out..........so what else could it be......are the jets in it stock and what about the stock setting for the needle clip. It the middle stock? Its baffling me. It boggs way down and tons of gas is in the carb when I take it a part.......More than mine ever had in it. Could the float be set wrong. How can I check it? whats stock? Also the drain screw, that should be left a little open right? Did i tell y'all that I hate carbs, well stock warrior carbs anyways.
 
Those BTM carbs are real POS's...

Take the float cage all the way out, the valve will come out with it. It'll fall off the cage, so take care!

Make sure theres nothing caught in the float valve/seat.

Its hard to tell in the pic (lack of depth perception is a 2D pic, lol), but it looks like the metal tab on the float cage is bent pretty far back(?) which would dump fuel like crazy. A float height adjustment might be in order.

When you put the cage back on, make sure not to torque down the nut, the float cage pivot need to move up/down completely freely.
 
whats the stock float position and how do i check that.....us it in the manual
 
deadlastracing said:
whats the stock float position and how do i check that.....us it in the manual
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what the default height is for this carb, one of the guys should know though.

As far as the basic procedure, try this on the FP site:

http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_float_height_adj_procedure.html

Mikuni or Keihin carbs all have their floats set basically the same way. Even if you dont have FP's little fancy gauge, any decent pair of digital calipers can be used.
 
hi

i also have a strange carb question, its the same BTM carb on a 2001 warrior , it had a uni filter drop in , no lid , baffle out of stock muffler, at first we had a the stock 145 main 42-5 pilot jet, It wouldn't rpm past half throttle with out missing , like it was hittting a rev limiter, most posts said go smaller main jet , which made it run even worse. So we tryed the 147.5 changed the spark plug , it ran good for a little bit but still broke up on the big end . Tryed the 150 for shits and giggles but was too rich and still broke up on the high end . moved the needle clip down one, with the 147.5 back in , ran ok for a few then went totally rich and would hardly run. Out of frustration I pulled the airbox and just reved it with just the open carb and it ran perfect. We stuck a 142 main in it with no airfilter just open carb, reved all the way up no missing or popping. If you try to stick anything on the carb , even just the open air box hose it misses out. Anybody have any suggestions on this one? Its totally got me baffled Thanks in advance Ed ???
 
profarmall said:
Its a brand new filter
Click to expand...


profarmall said:
If you try to stick anything on the carb , even just the open air box hose it misses out.
Click to expand...

Sorry, my bad... I missed that last sentence on my 1st read. That was my clue....

So youre saying, if you put the airbox boot on the carb, with no filter, it misses? Thats frick'n bizarre. The only time I've seen something like that is with (incorrect) pod-filters blocking the air-jets on the end of the bell. I dont know if that completely applies to this carb though.


Anyone have a pic of the bell end of this carb?
 
Yes, if you just ran an open carb it ran great, better then all the adjustments we made on it. But one another poster on a different forum said he had the same problem when he would put just the airbox on and found that the connecting tube had a tiny crack in it, makes sense, I'll check that today and post what I find thanks again Ed
 
Profarmall please start your own thread if you have your own problem. :) that way it will be easier for everybody to help you out.
Dead- the needle valve on the float assembly is not closing or dirt is stuck on the seat. . make sure and clean that both inside the valve and tip of the needle. Check float height. There also might be a hole in your float.
Profarmall sounds like a something is blocking the path of airflow when installing the boot. Or could have a crack somewhere. I would take appart the air filter and check it and also take off the tube and squeeze it to see if I could find any cracks. Could also be over oiled airfilter?
 
Thnaks JP....Float height is what....I'll read though the manual and see if it states it in there.
 
ALRIGHT, I'M OFFICIALLY PISSED AT THIS CARB!!!!! Its confusing me.......all setting are at stock. Float height stock, main and pilot, stock. Air mixture screw, stock. Stock pipe and air box. YET THE DAMN THING stilllll is getting way to much gas. I cleaned this carb out like a nympho working on a vag! WTF. I let it idle and its fine yet there is gas pouring out of the float bowl hose, even though I have the screw in all the way! As soon as i hit the gas it goes bogging down. What should i do. What is wrong with this thing. Any other suggestions?
 
Hey dead, I am not sure why it is running crap but it sounds like the drain screw other has a FU tip or the seat is pitted (or both).
In my experience that screw is one of the 1st places a carb will corrode because it is basically open to atmosphere out the drain tube and people rarely ever crack them to keep them clean.
 
I guarantee you it's a problem with the float/valve. Either the float height is set way off, the float is getting hung up on the edge of the bowl or something like that, or the needle is messed up. That'll make it run like hell, and that'll make all the excess fuel come out the overflow because there's nowhere else for it to go inside the carb. Cleaning won't fix everything, sometimes stuff needs replaced. I'd start by filing/smoothing the edges where the floats could potentially hang, and then if the problem continues, replace the needle valve and floats. I've even seen cracked floats cause this problem. They will seperate at the seam, and fill with fuel so it sits too low and the valve never closes.
 
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