FST 435

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435WOLV

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Joined
Sep 3, 2007
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Location
Ohio
I have a FST 435 wolverine. Does anyone else have problems with the battery not being able to turn the motor over. It does fine if the engine stops far enough in front of TDC. If it stops close to TDC it can't crank it past TDC. What type and grade of oil are you using.
 
How's your starter? It may need to have the brushes replaced and a good cleaning. My 03 starter was shot when I bought the machine last year. New brushes and a cleaning made a huge difference.
 
I have a new starter, definitely improved starting. Still have troubles at times getting starter to turn motor over. Winter is a real bear.
 
Try upping your displacement to a 446 - then you'll really enjoy that "nope, can't turn her over" attitude from the starter.

I got tired of needing a jumpstart on the cold mornings as the slightly weak starter and cold battery combination was just too much - so I replaced the exhaust rocker arm and rocker cover from one of an old Warrior (I think it was a 1988 model) that had the compression release lever. Case closed problem solved.

If you need a connection for parts on this one, pm me.
 
The stock battery is a 12 amp.....

A 14 amp will fit in the compartment....at least on my '02 it does :roll: . Maybe this is the little bit extra you need to roll that thing over.

<><
 
With the new starter and a 14 amp battery, I am not having any more starting problems.
 
Cool! :D

I was wondering if they made a high torque starter for these things....????

Anyway, good to hear you're not having anymore trouble.

<><
 
I just got my 446 together, I will be takeing pic for the showroom soon. It didnt want to turn her over, I may try the 14 amp battery. Im still doing breakin so I havent had the chance to see what she will do with the new found power. I actually wasnt too impressed with the quality of the work FST did, but thats just me. No spec for fileing the rings, crank showed up with more than just mild surface rust, head gasket was crushed in shipping and he wouldnt replace it unless I payed to send back the crushed one, and to top it off he didnt have another head gasket in stock.( so he said), I ended up using a little high temp rtv on the gasket and no problems I can tell, atleast not yet. I guess I just expect a little better from someone when your talking the kind of money that was spent. This thing better perform well above my expectations after broke in properly.
 
I'm not going to argue your opinion as to his "ability to meet expectations" on his quality. We've all learned to deal with it as there aren't many others that provide the services he does.

As for the rings, I found out that he files them to match the cylinder he's provided the rings for. I know from experience that he doesn't ALWAYS do this - and for the one time he laxed on his end, meant he had to warranty all that went wrong with my motor. For that, I commend him for standing up and doing the right thing.
 
He didnt file my rings after he noted he was going to. There was no clearance, the upper ring gap was actually closed when inserted in the cylinder. This was one time my habbit of being over cautious actually saved me. Im easy to please over all. I would have been happy with some instructions with the ring gap specs. I just went by factory specs, .013" I think it was. Im glad to hear he came through when you had a problem, that tells me he actually backs the products and services he provides. I also commend him for providing us, all to few, Wolverine fans with something to spend our money on and I will say his machine work on the cylinder and sleave was flawless. I dont at all doubt his ability to do good work. I just want all the others to know to check ring gap, sand crankshaft, and have high temp RTV handy! :D
 
Please tell me you went with the rule of thumb that is x.xxx" per inch of piston diameter!

if you went with what OEM manual says to use for ring gap, you will end up with not enough and when she finally gets hot enough to make the ends touch, she'll try and sieze - this is what happened to me. I made the mistake of reading the book - but it only applies to the OEM size piston.
 
The book said .013 I think I ended up .018, man I hope thats right, lol
 
I should say a very snug .018, According to the rule .004 times the bore in inches I think it is.
 
hey, new here. When I had a low battery and didnt feel like replacing it yet and it didnt want to turn over my stock bore engine with a higher compression piston id click the starter button and while holding it pull the pull-start cord. once it got a little nudge it would keep turning over. Im looking into getting a big bore kit myself thats how i was origianlly pointed to this fourm. have a 2001 wolverine with the basic bells and whistles. engine I have FMF exaust, K&N filter with cut airbox, Wiseco piston, and White brothers cam. was thinking when i make the change ill just go strait for the 446 looking for more info on what the difference feels like and if theres any reliability issues....

thanks,

- Evan

100_2915.jpg
 
The 446 feels nice. Very compatiable with my buddys 400ex honda. I normally can beat him off the line and through 4th but he always gets me on top end. I didnt do the top end gear box setup because I normally ride powerlines and hilly trials where top speed never gets over 35. It deffently is a torque monster and pulls the 25s really well. I did the 446 along with camshaft, valve springs, clutch springs, I already had the supertrapp pipe and modified intake. Just besure to check ring gap! I just put the first 15 hours on the build and the only problem I have had was a sheared flywheel key at about 3 hours into breakin. I havent had a problem sence.
 
cool how much did it run you out the door for the parts? im going to have my engine builder do the install but just curious. probably have him do a nice port job on it while he has it all apart.... What is the top end gear box mod???
 
The topend gearbox mod is simply using the yamaha bigbear 4th and 5th gears in the transmission of your wolvy. There are some users on the forum that can give you more info, I run oversized tires already, 25s which actually by themselves changed the gearing. If you run stock tires the gearing might be something you want to look into. It would make me sick to know the actually cost of everything I spent during the build. I did build the motor myself to save on some cost. Figure the cost of the stroker, cam, springs, oem case gaskets, mis. seal etc. Dont forget you have to machine the case halves so the new sleave will fit. I left this to the machine shop rather than pulling out the drimmel. I can say I spent enough money on this thing to rebuild a car engine.
 
I finally brokedown and cut my battery box to fit an 18Ahr battery on my 435 Wolverine. It has 310CCA and turns the motor over without even a hint of a problem. I used an Interstate YTX20H-BS. I had to remove the sides of the battery box. The battery is between 1 and 1 1/2" wider, about the same thickness, and slightly shorter than the stock battery.
 
sounds good, I went with a little larger atv type battery, I dont remember the size off hand but its the same size that comes stock in the 660 raptor.
 
I have the Wiseco 10.25:1 in mine and a webcam moving the valves and mine is a total bear to start some times. Its pretty normal to have to bump the start button a few time to get he to fire off. I just haven't brought myself to cut the battery box yet.
 

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