Dear Yamaha Engineer.... how stupid can you be?

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BrokeVW

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You stupid, moronic, worthless piece of garbage. You must be the most ignorant piece of **** to walk the Earth, you scumbag.

I hate you with every fiber of my being, you dolt.

Steel, when exposed to the elements, will corrode. Perhaps this is beyond your scope of intelligence.... but it is true.

If you have a steel bolt that threads into aluminum, AND you allow the elements to come into contact with that bolt, you may as well break out the welder and just fuse the metal into one useless chunk, you rotten SOB.

On the right engine cover bolts, of which there are 15 or so.... why on Gods green Earth would you EVER leave the ends of them exposed? Explain that one to me... because I'm just too simple to get it.

The others are in holes that do not pass all the way through the aluminum... a blind hole with threads. Those bolts are all sealed and are wonderful and in great shape after 8 years. Not the ones you decided to leave exposed to the elements. Just 2 or 3 out of 15 or 16 of them.... those you left exposed and open on the backside of the bolts. Unbelievable.

If you drill ALL the way through the aluminum engine casing, and then thread in a steel bolt.... please, please, for the love of all that is Holy... please, with sugar on top, SEAL THE BACK OF THE BOLT!!!!!

Don't drill it out fully. Leave some aluminum to create a blind hole. If you MUST drill it out fully, FFS cap the end of the hole. A rubber plug, a glob of RTV silicone... anything to stop the water from getting into the hole, and allowing the steel bolt to seize into the aluminum threads.

Amazing.... just absolutely amazing.

Thanks to your incredible ignorance and lack of insight or common sense, I now have a 4 wheeler with a stripped hole in the engine.... trying to drill dead center in a broken stud? Impossible. Best you can hope for is "mostly centered" and as a result, the original threads absolutely, positively, no way in Hell will ever survive.

The only option I have NOW, thanks to your stupid ass, is to drill a massive gaping hole into the case, run a long bolt and tighten a nut on the backside of it... you know, where there shouldn't be a hole... where it should be plugged.... because you know, who ever thought these things would ever get wet, or muddy, or be exposed to the elements?

Surely not you Yamaha engineer... so nice one stupid, because you drilled too much then failed to plug the unnecessary hole, you've ruined the casing on my motor.

No matter I saw the problem before trying to work on the bolt. When it didn't crack free and get loose right away, I knew something was wrong. Nevermind I busted out the heat, I broke out the PB Blaster, I worked the bolt back and forth to try to free it.... nevermind all that.... the POS sheared off anyway.

Here is hoping I get to meet you one day and get to punch your teeth right down your throat.

That is all.
 
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sorry man i had too haha
 
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deerman2701 said:
sorry man i had too haha
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:tup:

I just wanted to vent. Been up all night, under a lot of pressure to get it running again, I ended up dicking about with that stupid M6x1.0 bolt for about 3 hours.

I have it sorted now, it just took loads of time punching, drilling, punching, drilling, until most of the steel bolt had been removed. The bit I couldn't remove had been permanently attached to the aluminum threads through galvanic corrosion.

From there I broke out the round file and sat working the steel out of the hole until I could run a M6x1.0 tap through it to try to cut more threads... there are probably 3-4 coils left, the rest is chewed up.

I think I will run a slightly longer bolt through, tighten it on what threads remain in the hole, then I will loctite a nut to the backside of the bolt sticking out.... this should ensure there isn't as much stress on the weakened threads.

Of course... all the bolts with the exposed ends will be coated with anti-seize and I'll pack the backside of the holes with grease or RTV silicone when I'm done.

My rear end and chain are off, so I had to figure something out to tighten the clutch nut to 58 ft-lbs... I left the thrust plate off but put on the springs and screws, which clamped the discs tight so tightening the nut would turn the engine over. I took a clean towel and jammed the gears up next to the clutch, which allowed me to torque the nut down to spec.

I have the gasket material cleaned off (that OE gasket must have been 1mm thick!)

I have my new handlebars on now, the clutch is about done.... just waiting on rear axle bearings and seals and I'll be set I hope.:atv:
 
Hahah, Good vent. To bad its in english, they can't understand you silly.
 
beastlywarrior228 said:
****** japs
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To be fair.... there are 3 bolts on the VW 020 trans that have the backs exposed to the elements, they do the same thing being steel bolts in an aluminum trans casing.... so the German engineers didn't do much better in that aspect on some of the transaxles.

Thankfully they are M10x1.50 bolts and you can put more torque into them without them shearing off like these tiny 6mm bolts want to do.

Originally, the bolts were NOT exposed to the elements in the VW trans as 3 studs were used to attach the trans mount to, the studs covered the bolts and kept them sealed.

In 1985, after 10+ years of having the 3 bolts sealed, VW changed the mount design, deleted the 3 studs from the trans casing, but left the casing unchanged so the 3 bolts were now exposed to the elements.

They are always seized and are a PITA to remove.... so it isn't just the japs but damn... how long have they been making these things to go mudding with and ride through creeks and so on? There is no excuse for not plugging that hole, or simply making the lug bigger so there is no need to drill completely through it.

DeadLastRacing said:
Hahah, Good vent. To bad its in english, they can't understand you silly.
Click to expand...

Oh, I bet they can.... everyone else can speak their own language plus English, most of the time.
I think the Japanese have something like 6 years of learning to read and write (but not speak or listen to) English before they get out of high school. Something like 99% of college students can read and write it.... so they know what I am saying if they run across this thread:evilface:

You can bet your ass if I ever get a new one, I'll be sorting out the exposed bolt holes in advance:tup:
 
BrokeVW said:
Oh, I bet they can.... everyone else can speak their own language plus English, most of the time.
Click to expand...
Hah, I know man, I was just messin. You'll have broken bolts with every atv, its just the way it goes. And out machines are old technology......old practices and design styles. Plus the cheaper the better right? :tup:
 
Vee Dub, tell us how you REALLY feel! :haha:

I just spent 4 hours on my 5.0 Mustang, taking off the water pump (should be 30 minute job, tops).
Broke 2 bolt heads off. And they screw into blind holes in the heads.
May have bent the timing chain cover while using caveman tools to unstick pump from the cover and slide it off of the 2 corrosion filled bolt holes. On the upside though, I did invent 2 new swear words...
And while it's off, I might as well put a new timing chain in it. And crank seal. Underdrive pulleys? OK, since the power steering pump is weeping a little from the shaft too.
Next I need to drop the tranny pan and defunkatize the valve body (not shifting right). Oh joy.

Aren't these things supposed to be fun?
 
Do like I do and remove all your bolts and put Never Seize on them before they corrode into the case. I do this with all disimilare metal bolts on cars and bikes. I feel your pain tho, I learned this the hard way as well.
 
U MAD Bro?? No I feel your pain but if it was made in America then image what the price tag would be like.
 
The funny thing is most american motor companies all have branches over in Europe and are known for making excellent quality cars. Maybe not quite German engineering and such, but a lot better then here. I think I heard once that Ford GM and such all said that they don't believe that Americans would be willing to pay for the quality. Funny because I see a ton of VW, BMW and the likes cars all over the road.
 
It has nothing to do with moisture, it is electralisis. The two different metals actualy creat an electric charge that promotes corrosion. It is the same way lead copper batteries work. Even blind holes will corrode, I pull out all bolts attached to aluminum on my bike and coat them with Never Sieze before they have a chance to seize up. Why the factories cant do this is beyond me. Ever brake off a water pump bolt attached to a timing cover?
 
Dino said:
It has nothing to do with moisture, it is electralisis. The two different metals actualy creat an electric charge that promotes corrosion. It is the same way lead copper batteries work. Even blind holes will corrode, I pull out all bolts attached to aluminum on my bike and coat them with Never Sieze before they have a chance to seize up. Why the factories cant do this is beyond me. Ever brake off a water pump bolt attached to a timing cover?
Click to expand...
This is the same concept as with aluminum wiring in your house. If your tie an aluminum wire to a copper wire the same thing happens. It is the combination of two dissimilar metals plus being packed with filth and water just accelerates the process.
 
ever change a rack n pinion on a 99 ford exploder?

I felt the exact same way yesterday..

I would love to meet the brainchild that designed that abortion and drive it straight up his *Cough*

who the hell puts something like that inside the frame like that???

I know from working on semi truck trailors back in the day how well the aluminum and steel can fuse together...

now let me ask you this... How many ppl here have aluminum rims on thier vehicles... bet most of you dont have a thin lil paper gasket like the semi trucks have! :D
 
miami1 said:
thats right !!! lol
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i dont own it.. lol Im an automotive tech.. it was at work...

And I dont own any POS chevy either..:loco:

I drive my ultra sexy, super cool, pimped out 91 dakota! :tup:

14" LCD, 7" lcd, PS2, etc etc etc, and about 1000watts of lights, etc etc...

over 500K on her, still the original motor <--- u dont get that kinda quality outta a ford or chev!!!

hehehe...
 
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