CWR 460 Stroker

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ttwarrior78

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Well, if things go right this summer I will be sending my motor out to Greg at Cwr for the 460 stroker and everything else. He said it would put out45-50hp depending on the setup. I need all the power I can get for flat track, but my suspension is first on the list of my overhaul. I was just curious as to how this would run against a slightly modded 450( pipe, P&P, piston, etc...). Same for the 400's but 440's etc... And what other small things can done to the motor to get power besides- stroker, piston, P&P, cam, valve train, clutch, intake, carb. Also what carb would be best for this setup, Greg recomended the edelbrock.
 
I would run a 37mm or 39mm Kehin FZR(CR) MX style carb what the yfz/450r run. The 37mm one will give you a little more power down low and response. The 39mm will give you more mid upper range power or hit. These are the best carbs out there. There some what close to a mikuni radial flat slide style carb which is found on the carburated r6's and racing bikes. I would try and use say a raptor intake manifold, that way the carb will sit closer to the engine and have more response. You will have to have the intake matched carb, maybe bored out a little bit. Not hard to do at all.
The edelbrock just doesn't flow enough air for what you will be trying to do. It's a great carb if you want torque and throttle response and very simple design but for all out power and adjustablity (tunablity) nothing will beat a FZR. Also these carbs jetting changes are made very easy.
Go big with the cam. Bigger valve. Valve job done. I would ge the adjustable cam gear to fine tune your power band. Also I would go for the dynatek CDI. You're going to want to set rev limit as it will want to over rev very easy and you don't want the engine to come appart. Also you can set custom advance programs or retard to adjust the igntion timing curve to what you want. It's very trick and I've played with mine quite a bit to get the most out of my stock stroke engine.
Personally even with all this stuff a modded up 450's will most likely get you in the end, just because there lighter and the way the suspension is setup will be better stock then yours modified.
I would maybe think about lighten up the flywheel. Helps the engine rev freer.. much easier to stall.
 
More power to ya! I wouldn't mine seeing a warrior on the podium in 2008 for any race. I will say though that the 450's are flat our raw so you better bring your A game. Post some pics of bike I haven't seen it in a while.
 
I know they are very expensive, but a lonestar or similar swingarm will definately help drop that weight down. The warrior swinger along with just a bare stock axle and rear shock weigh around a hundred lbs (could be considerably heavier even). The lonestar swingarm weighs less than 20lbs alone on the other hand. Plus you never have to deal with our pos chain adjustment ever again. If you really want to race those guys you're gonna have to drop some serious weight, and the swingarm is the best way to do it. Just my two cents...
 
Boxhead said:
I know they are very expensive, but a lonestar or similar swingarm will definately help drop that weight down. The warrior swinger along with just a bare stock axle and rear shock weigh around a hundred lbs (could be considerably heavier even). The lonestar swingarm weighs less than 20lbs alone on the other hand. Plus you never have to deal with our pos chain adjustment ever again. If you really want to race those guys you're gonna have to drop some serious weight, and the swingarm is the best way to do it. Just my two cents...

I have a lonestar swing arm and it weights a little more then the stock setup, swing arm with carrier. The The biggest thing is the stock carrier assembly, replace that with a aluiminium one and you weight less then a lonestar setup.
The chain adjustment is better on the lonestar but you also have to deal with how the skidplate mounts to the swinger and now that you are actually rotating the assembly trying to keep the skidplate as close to the sproket and brake rotor is a big pain in the ass. I'd personally recomend stock swing arm for light weight and then a tapperd roller bearing carrier if you want to go that route. IMO.
 
I got a swing arm from an 88 and it considerably lighter cause de the carrier is smaller, the sprocket hub is smaller and only have 4 stud and the disc is also smaller and I also think that the swing arm is a little longer is it ???
 
As for the motor, I am going with all new valves, titanium valve springs, 1mm larger intake valve, .450 lift cam, lightened flywheel, 460 stroker, P&P, adjustable cam sprocket, dynatek CDI, remove the airbox and put on a new K&N, carb(dont know which one yet), and HMF exhaust. Suspension will be my yfz450 shocks rebuilt with dual rates, new rear shock, RAD tapered bearing carrier, stock swingarm, 15-38 gearing, wicked +3+1 a-arms, silver raptor look-alike plastics with race cut front. Thats without getting into detail. Hopefully should be done by the end of summer, and I'll be working two jobs to buy all these parts. Hopefully things will work out. As for pictures I have the bike torn down to the frame right now for powdercaoting.
 
I would make a new air box set up with a straight pipe that tappers up from straight from the carb like the raptor setup to the airbox. The intake tube going from the carb to the airbox is a huge restriction... according to FST on the warrior.
Plan on runing some race gas even though CWR says the engine runs fine without.
Personally I found the yfz shocks not to work because of the incorrect length of the shock itself...
I would put on a roll design sway bar for the front.
 
I will be running VP110 race fuel on race days. I think I am going to mount a K&N right on the end of the carb, and keep the airbox for the trails. As for the shocks, I am going to send them out to GT Thunder ot TCS to get redone with dual rates and shorter springs for tt.
 
That would work and that is what I do... I actually don't use an airbox for the trails either. Most of the time I don't go into water past my top of my cases so I don't worry about it.
That fuel will work great with that setup and will allow you to run even more timing for more power if need be.
 
And I'm also going to be running either the aluminum or carbon fiber rath swaybar, but I dont know if I can justify the extra $100 for the carbon fiber tube. I talkled to Greg today at CWR and he said they have alot of experience with the edelbrocks on their 460 warriors and said it would flow fine and work good with that setup and its easy to tune. And how much difference would a -1 inch swingarm make and what rear shock would be a good upgrade for my setup, but still be able to use on trails( I use the crj adjustable link to lower the back).
 
ttwarrior78 said:
And I'm also going to be running either the aluminum or carbon fiber rath swaybar, but I dont know if I can justify the extra $100 for the carbon fiber tube. I talkled to Greg today at CWR and he said they have alot of experience with the edelbrocks on their 460 warriors and said it would flow fine and work good with that setup and its easy to tune. And how much difference would a -1 inch swingarm make and what rear shock would be a good upgrade for my setup, but still be able to use on trails( I use the crj adjustable link to lower the back).

-1 swingarm will put more weight over the rear end basically giving you more traction and taking some weight off the front end. With this motor though it will likely want to wheelie pretty easy. I would recomend the banshee shock and have it re-valved for what you want to do. For the price it can't be beat.
The edelbrock is basically a 34x36mm oval carb which does flow almost the same as stock carb as its smaller but the design is better.
Its good to go with something the engine builder recomends as then its a little easier for the user to get the engine tuned it right out of the box. I still personally feel there are better carbs out there that are just as easy to tune though. That being said I'm sure what ever you decide the engine will run great!
 
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