Carb problem. help

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fatwarrioratv

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Location
Toronto but ride in Haliburton
can some one help me .
i want to clean my carb, on my 1990 warrior atv.
but i cant find any service manuals or anything to help me do this step by step..
if some one can find such information. please msg me with it...
sorry if this inforamtion is posted some where in this website. i just cant seem to find it.

thanks
 
WOW.. thanks sooo much... THis is SOOOOOO very helpfull..
holly @$%!&..... thanks..... this thing actully has everything...
.. I cant wait to print this all out....
take care... ride hard/.
 
HE HE ... well now that I have removed the carb. What next... how do i clean it... is there anything particular i should be looking for if my carb is broken.
sorry for how stupid this sounds, but im really new to this sport,
thanks
 
The first thing the folks with decent carb experience are going to want to know from you is:

How mechanically inclined are you? Honestly.

Some people (me probably being one of them) have no right taking their carb apart.

Carburetors can be tricky beasts at times. So before you get in over your head, think about the above question.

Not trying to say you can't or shouldn't do it, just make sure it's within your capabilities.

....now, someone who knows what they are talking about help this guy out.
 
Well the onlything i think i have the capability to do the cheach and re ajust the float hight. there is no way that im gonna get all caought up in the reast of the carb.. i looked at a diagram and it sems live every screw has a spring, and it just seems like bad news for a guy like me. ...

anyways i was wondering , are there any particular cleaners i sound use to clean the area where the float is.some people say usa WD40 and some say use breake cleaner..any
sugestions.
 
Well the onlything i think i have the capability to do the cheach and re ajust the float hight. there is no way that im gonna get all caought up in the reast of the carb.. i looked at a diagram and it sems live every screw has a spring, and it just seems like bad news for a guy like me. ...

anyways i was wondering , are there any particular cleaners i sound use to clean the area where the float is.some people say usa WD40 and some say use breake cleaner..any
sugestions.

Um... Use carburetor cleaner (PJ1 mmm)!!!!! WD-40/break cleaner wtf?

You pretty much want to clean out the bowl (with the carburetor cleaner spray can), remove each jet and clean them by shoving the straw up there and giving each one a sprits, clean the body and the slide area, clean around the needle area, and clean out all the other areas lol. I mean it really isn’t a complicated task, you say you can change needle positions and adjust the float settings; that pretty much covers the two main portions of the carburetor (top and bowl) - the only thing left is the throttle assembly on the side...

You probably cant find a How-To on this because most shops (including ours) will just shove the ******* carb in the Ultrasonic parts cleaner for a bit, spray out some jets, and be done with it lol. Then aside from taking it apart and shoving it in the parts cleaner if you don’t happen to have one (and most people don’t in their garage); you would just take the carb apart and hose it down with some carb cleaner (this isn’t rocket science so just spray the **** out of stuff, clean each jet and nook, then let it dry). Then as you re-assemble the thing look for any stretched, cracked, beat, broken old "gaskets"/O-Rings that may need to be replaced.

There is ONE thing to watch out for though... On the side of the carburetor there is the plastic black cap covering the throttle assembly; you MUST take that cover off and check to make sure the boot on the accelerator pump is BELOW its notch (you will see what im talking about when you see it). The boot has a tendency to come up when the carburetor is taken apart and should be checked each time.

There isn’t much to say really but buy a can of carb cleaner and go to town! I also advise you to either put some anti-seize on the screws holding the bowl in place or buying some allen bolts to replace them; over time with use they will begin to strip, doing either one of these things will save you lots of hassle in the long run (or next time you go to take it apart).

If you smoke try not to smoke while cleaning the carburetor with all the flammable cleaning fumes and gasoline... I know this sounds really stupid but you won’t believe some of the dumb **** accidents I have seen like this...
 
.. I also advise you to either put some anti-seize on the screws holding the bowl in place or buying some allen bolts to replace them; over time with use they will begin to strip, doing either one of these things will save you lots of hassle in the long run (or next time you go to take it apart)....

The bowl screws are notorious for the heads stripping.

I have to agree with Death, here.

Getting the fuckers out of my son's Rappy was a bit of a pain in the ass!

Allen bolts are the way to go, IMO.
 
Wow.. thanks so much.. that basically coverd every single question i had.. thanks againe.

that was amaging. Im gonna print that out and clean that carb the next time i get out to the cottage..
 
If you smoke try not to smoke while cleaning the carburetor with all the flammable cleaning fumes and gasoline... I know this sounds really stupid but you won’t believe some of the dumb **** accidents I have seen like this...

it says that on the dyno jet instrutions lol
 
If you smoke try not to smoke while cleaning the carburetor with all the flammable cleaning fumes and gasoline... I know this sounds really stupid but you won’t believe some of the dumb **** accidents I have seen like this...

it says that on the dyno jet instrutions lol

Does it really!? lol!
 
I would agree strongly with the screw replacements, those bastards will stick the day after you put them in there and the metal is soft as hell so it'll get stripped instantly with one small slip of the screwdriver. If you have access to a lint free rag (they are the $5 ones that are green usually) than it would be a good bonus since they wont leave any grit or foreign material in there. Just take your time on rebuilds like this and keep very well organized with everything labeled.
 
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