Cam Bearing Failure

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I would go ahead and change the piston since you got it that far tore down just in case any shards of metal got on the sides of the piston so it doesn't scare up the cylinder smallest debris will do 100s of damage happen here
 
there is nothing in the piston. that's all good. the problem now is pictured up top.
 
You can order a halve from eBay they usually go cheap I would replace it so there isn't further problems later on
 
Benny86 said:
You can order a halve from eBay they usually go cheap I would replace it so there isn't further problems later on
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yeah, but i'm not going to spend an arm and leg on one. i thought about jb welding that piece back in there, but i don't know if that will be a good idea or not.
 
Oh I don't know about that I don't think jb weld will hold that especially with the heat that the motor puts out you can try quick steel if you want that might work its resistant to hi heat
 
Benny86 said:
Oh I don't know about that I don't think jb weld will hold that especially with the heat that the motor puts out you can try quick steel if you want that might work its resistant to hi heat
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yeah, forgot about the quick steel. good idea. it works for the clutch cover oil mod so i don't see why it wouldn't for this. just gotta clean it good.

plus the guide only rides in that seat. there is no pressure on it or anything. might be the ticket.
 
Yea I used it on my old dirtbike when my chain put a hole in my case and it held the rest of the time I had it. It doesn't hurt to try
 
JonS said:
yeah, forgot about the quick steel. good idea. it works for the clutch cover oil mod so i don't see why it wouldn't for this. just gotta clean it good.

plus the guide only rides in that seat. there is no pressure on it or anything. might be the ticket.
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That guide is under presure it sets in a v shaped spot in the head and when you torque it it puts pressure on it. And in that picture, you have the guide facing the wrong way.
 
I know its in wrong. Just snapped the pic fast.

it can't be under that much pressure though. it only rest in that seat. biggest thing i see is the chain pressing on it a little. the tensioner is going to take up the slack of the chain. amiright?

any suggestions and knowledge i can learn is appreciated.
 
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It's under more pressure than you think. That's also called the stopper guide, the one that is bolted is called the slipper guide.
 
Yeah I don't know if I'd trust it. There isn't much of a saddle to cup it anymore. About the only thing you could to is to drill a hole in the front portion of it, and thread a screw into the guide. Making sure it doesn't go all the way through the guide. That with the little bit of a saddle that's left may be enough to hold her in.
 
i am going to look for a case halve or just split this one and send it to my buddy who can properly repair it with a weld. another monkey wrench thrown into the mix.
 
well, i'm not going to weld it or try to put quick steel in there. i am going work on splitting it this afternoon. tried the quick steel yesterday and it just is not going to work.

can anyone point me in the right direction for a how to on splitting the cases. i know i need certain tools, but i don't have them. gonna take it easy and try to split them with what i have here with me. i do have a good warrior manual and repair book handy though.

for anyone that has split before, can i remove the the left side case without dealing with the transmission?
 
JonS said:
well, i'm not going to weld it or try to put quick steel in there. i am going work on splitting it this afternoon. tried the quick steel yesterday and it just is not going to work.

can anyone point me in the right direction for a how to on splitting the cases. i know i need certain tools, but i don't have them. gonna take it easy and try to split them with what i have here with me. i do have a good warrior manual and repair book handy though.

for anyone that has split before, can i remove the the left side case without dealing with the transmission?
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Yes, easy? No.. you need to knock the crank and the left side main bearing out while you take it apart, leave the clutch cover on and dont dissasemble anything on the clutch side this will help keep everything on that case half, the hardest part is knocking the. Rank out and cleaning the silicone off the cases
 
duneracerweston said:
Yes, easy? No.. you need to knock the crank and the left side main bearing out while you take it apart, leave the clutch cover on and dont dissasemble anything on the clutch side this will help keep everything on that case half, the hardest part is knocking the. Rank out and cleaning the silicone off the cases
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doesn't sound too bad. i had these blaster motors apart a few times. was just wondering if it was similar to that process. is it imperative that i have a harmonic balancer puller though?

one question though, does that timing chain gear slide off the crank pretty easily?
 
as long as you have a flywheel puller and a rubber hammer you'll be fine man ... and disassemble it in neutral

assuming the top end is off ...
just pull the stator cover , sprocket , starter and flywheel off ..... then unbolt the cases and tap the crank and left side main bearing out as you pull the left side case off .. you may have to tap the output shaft out as well
 
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