Battery Clicking

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sexy99warrior

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Well i rode my Warrior today for the first time and it was great. Shut it off, and then went to go satrt it again, and it was too dead to start. So we hooked it up to my freinds 400ex and popped it into gear. Rode around a little thinking it would charge itself, and it didnt. Now later on i went to go start it and all it does now is click...sounds like its coming from the Relay. I put it on a charger for over night....i dont know if this will help but its worth a shot. You guys think i will need a new battery? Well just post what ya think...thanks.
 
Charge her overnight and see if it holds a charge for a couple days of normal use. If not I would check the wiring on the bike for any shorts or broken wires that may be drawing current from the battery; if you find nothing there then yea id say you need a new one (shelf life is a huge variable they range 3-7 years). A problem also pops up when the battery cells drop below 10.5 Volts... When this happens the cells get permanently damaged and will never hold the amount of energy they were previously capable of again. :-/

If you need a new battery your best bet for the longest life is to get one you need to put acid in yourself or one that the dealer puts acid in for you right there. You then trickle charge these batteries on your own (or the dealer will over night for you).
 
Thanks, i checked it this morning, and i took the charger off and it was still clicking. I have been looking at the wiring and nothing is loose or unpluged. I have only been looking around the relay and the stator wires. Maybe i will try to get a new battery and see what happens. Thank you.
 
Yea you probably need a new battery; if this new one goes dead though there is something drawing current... ALSO! I forgot - use a socket to tighten down your positive and negative terminals well. Some times doing it with a screw driver just isn’t tight enough!!!! You could also give the ring terminals and battery leads a good sanding/cleaning too!! ;D
 
The only thing thats weird is the battery must be good because the lights are pretty damm strong, and arent dim. Im confused:(
 
i think some of that has to do with your cranking amps. a engine requires a certain amount of cranking amps to get it started. a cold engine requires more than a warm engine. so if your lights run, but its clicking it means its got a charge, but its almost shot, because it doesnt have enough cranking amps, rendering it useless. at least that is what i think it mmight be..... ???
 
Yeah if you have a tester like a DVOM just check across the battery, i know in cars anything under 12.2 is low. If you rgetting a reading into the 11's you know its crap.
 
well the acid is going bad. it will not recharge, and the acid is holding enough amps, or watts or whatever, but its only enough to run the lightes, not the starter motor. but if you run the lights for long enought you will eventualyy drain it all
 
Well i cleaned everything, and when i was done it was still clicking. So i called up my freind and he told me to put it in gear(with it off obvisily cause it doesnt start), and roll it and hit the starter button at the same time....it started to turn over but not enough to start it. SO either the battery is dead, or the charging coil is fucked.
 
well the acid is going bad. it will not recharge, and the acid is holding enough amps, or watts or whatever, but its only enough to run the lightes, not the starter motor. but if you run the lights for long enought you will eventualyy drain it all
Click to expand...

To go more in depth pretty much the lead plates when submerged in acid cause a chemical reaction leaving the byproduct Lead Sulfate and release electrons. What happens with this reaction over time if a charging voltage isn't applied to the battery (when the stator charges the battery it "reverses" this process - lead and lead dioxide re-form on the plates allowing the reaction with acid to continue) the process never gets "reversed" and the plates in the battery get "corroded" and fucked. So in a way the acid going bad is what starts the process but the ultimate fate of your battery is the lead plates being coated with lead sulfate. Yes what was said about cranking amps is true. An ampere (amp) is the measurement of how many electrons pass a certain point at a given time. Lights are low amperage demanding items (electrons) and don’t require as much to run (probably about 7 - 15A for halogen & as little as 1-2A for HID). The starter on the other hand needs a load of current (amps/electrons) and the battery can not fulfill that demand - this is why your lights may work still and the starter wont. :cool:

Soooooooooo now that my chemistry/physical science class is over If your battery is just toast its toast. But if things like broken wires, loose connections, and short circuits are drawing current away from your battery you have two problems to deal with - A problem to fix and a new battery to buy. ;D

Your answer is yes by the way you need a new battery to start with!
 
bi-bi-bi-bi-bi-bingo! yea you need a new battery ohhhhh sorry did i stutter?? ;)
Click to expand...
i dont think i need a new battery cause the lights are bright and look normal.
 
hey, this is sexy99warriors friends with the 400ex.

ok

here it goes:

my philosophy is this......

his battery when i tested everything a week back, tested 12.4v on my multimeter. which is GOOD battery.

i truely belive his chargeing coil is SHOT, thats why its WONT charge even a little bit after a long period of high speed riding.

what i am going to do is just change out stators, because his spare is GOOD _tested_ and had a bad pickup coil thats why it wouldnt start......so i am going to leave the GOOD pickup coil intact, and the old tested stator- throw that bitch in and give her a cranking, my bets is it will charge that battery right up......

v581- from the fucktarded group at atvconnection- i sware why in the hell cant we curse over there??? this forum rules!
 
If the battery wont charge via a jump pack, trickle charger, or normal jump its fucked and even if you supply a charging source the battery just wont "retain" any more power. Before you go replacing his stator and **** ($$$$) id suggest trying an alternative method charging the battery. I have tested batteries with a 12.4 Volt reading that are fucked that doesn’t mean kaka sometimes bro - you need a load test to tell if it’s ok or not (same with alternators etc..) Either way if the battery doesn’t charge anymore from the alternative methods you need a new one regardless… So buying a new battery won’t hurt him either. After you have eliminated the simple cheap **** then id dig into the stator and prowl the harness (red wires etc.. under the fender) for breaks that may stop the charging of the battery. (I have come across blown wires a few times that have done this).

Just my $0.02

**** **** **** BITCH BALLS COCK SLUT!
 
actaully have a spare stator, that i know is good with the same plugs.

i figured i would just pull the battery, from my 400ex or spare 04 warrior, and run it for awhile, and if it remains charged after stopping alot, then great but if it doesnt then.....its not the battery.....

funny thing is the battery was good at the beginning of the day, and it SHOULD charge while riding it, granted it was started and stopped alot....

~~~the owners of atvc can go blow there daddy for a dollar~~~
 
yeah but the battery can have enough to run the light but not enough to kick it over, hence the clicking sound. Throw a jumper box on it and try to start it, it should start right up.
 
Even the jump pack wont do **** if the battery is completely fucked... If you have a stator just laying around why the **** not try it!
 
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