Hello yfm350 forum
I've recently purchased a 2003 yamaha warrior I bought it non running for 100 and a trade I was told that the bike didn't have spark I thought to myself no biggie it could be a couple of things I've noticed in order to get it to crank u have to cross the solenoids points the push button doesn't work the PO had changed the stator so the color of the wires are not the same as the book but I've chased that prob with my multimeter it checks out when I get home I'll post pics but I'm just looking for some advice on where to start from there
Also I noticed that the neutral light doest come on and the wires have been tampered I read that u could just disconnect them but I've tested it with them both connected or not I still have no spark
NO SPARK SITUATION::
Please verify First if the SPARK PLUG is producing a good Spark, if YES then you can verify the CDI... the CDI is responsible mostly for timing your spark plug spark. Verify if the CDI is getting power, if you listen carefully when you KEY ON your machine and push KILLSWITCH ON and OFF you will hear a clicking/ticking sound coming from the CDI if it is actually getting power. If YES, then you can verify if you Spark COIL have continuity... if ALL of those scenarios are not the problem THEN you can verify if your STATOR is producing AC VOLTZ for the spark to use. You can do all those tests with a simple multimeter, Digital or even Analog.
If have more questions just ask one of the seniors here, they will guide you and i will help you the more i can. :tup:
Look for the cables that comes from the STATOR to the CDI... disconnect only those cables (Plug) and use a MULTIMETER to read AC VOlTZ and test all WHITE cables ("in my harness") one by one while cranking your machine... if the STATOR is doing it's work, you should READ VOLTZ coming out from your it, at least from 45voltz AC to 80voltz AC - Optimal is between 80AC to 110AC!
Remember that you should test ALL other things i mention before thinking the problem is your STATOR.
P.D. You can check FIRST the POSITIVE cable ("In my harness, ORANGE coming from the CDI") that is hook up to the COIL and do this same test. *Be careful AC can give you a little bite (shock).
Ok, so i am assuming you do testing measuring DC Volts and you did not get even 1.0 DV v...
Please do the same reading measuring in AC Volts (200-range)!
Did you push the KILL SWITCH ON/OFF while cranking to verify if the readings vary?
BTW...Did the REAR light turn ON when KEY ON your machine or any lights?
just to know if you have current coming from your BATT to your CDI...
I just left out I'll give that a look when I get back and yes the lights turn on but the push button doesn't work I have to jump the soliniod in order for it to work
I just left out I'll give that a look when I get back and yes the lights turn on but the push button doesn't work I have to jump the soliniod in order for it to work
OK, FIRST i will help you to get the PUSH BUTTON fixed very easy :tup:
then i will continue helping you to get your machine start flawless with no problem.
OK, FIRST i will help you to get the PUSH BUTTON fixed very easy :tup:
then i will continue helping you to get your machine start flawless with no problem.
UPDATE ok so i was able to bypass the nuetral and parking switch ive replaced the ignition coil and fuse assembly ive noticed that the starter is dying and once if i turn the key switch on i get one spark and nothing else any ideas i know its been a while but life has became complicated lol
That 12v reading of the battery is with no load on it I'm assuming. Try getting a cranking voltage reading, to really test how good the battery is. Even a junk battery will read 12v with no load on it.
