8BU
Member
I have a 99 350. looking for suggestions to get more horse and low end grunt. Engine mods? pipes? ????
any info welcome.
any info welcome.
99 350 More Power
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8BU,
Since 131 people have viewed your post and no one has had the courtesy to give you any answers, I will offer you my 16 years of "real wolverine" knowledge. the following are steps and things that I know from personal experience work for the true wolverine, which is the old style, 348cc 4x4 auto-clutch mean machine. 1. air box lid off, k&n filter, pro-design makes a good solid unit kit, but you will have to do a little mod to the box, ez instructions are included, e-bay around $90. If you mud or water ride alot, keep your lid and use it when you plan on getting wet. 2.outerwears air box water resistant cover, a little hard getting it to fit, but it's a must for running "lid-free", ebay $30. 3. Thunder products dial-a-jet, the best and easiest jetting device ever made. a must for running both with and without a lid, it totally eliminates jet changing within your carb. $95 with snorkel tube accessory at thunderproducts.com. 4. any slip on after market exhaust will help, dg even has a head pipe and exhaust combo that is very tough, but IMO fmf makes a better pipe for mid-range, both are available online shops for around $250. 5. 4stroketech has a 446cc bore&stroke job that is straight up beast for more power, downside if you don't disassemble and re-assemble it your self, you'll be in it over $1,000. 6. wheels and tires. yes aftermarket wheels and tires will make your machine feel night and day between stock. $700 for a great set-up on ebay, all you do is bolt them on. 7. gearing off of a big bear or kodiak. I personally haven't done this on any of my bikes because I am a top-end fly guy, but I have buddies that are all about the mud and low-end grunt, and they swear by it. Hi-lifter has this available on their web site, not sure of the cost, but it's under $380 installed at your local shop, or should be. 8. iridium spark plugs are an ez help too. 9. Your stock shocks are adjustable, make sure they are cranked up to their tightest setting, less springy bounce, more tighter control, more power to the ground faster. I hope this helps, keep me up to date if you like, or if you run into any probs., maybe I can help or at least steer you in the right direction. Good Luck man!
Since 131 people have viewed your post and no one has had the courtesy to give you any answers, I will offer you my 16 years of "real wolverine" knowledge. the following are steps and things that I know from personal experience work for the true wolverine, which is the old style, 348cc 4x4 auto-clutch mean machine. 1. air box lid off, k&n filter, pro-design makes a good solid unit kit, but you will have to do a little mod to the box, ez instructions are included, e-bay around $90. If you mud or water ride alot, keep your lid and use it when you plan on getting wet. 2.outerwears air box water resistant cover, a little hard getting it to fit, but it's a must for running "lid-free", ebay $30. 3. Thunder products dial-a-jet, the best and easiest jetting device ever made. a must for running both with and without a lid, it totally eliminates jet changing within your carb. $95 with snorkel tube accessory at thunderproducts.com. 4. any slip on after market exhaust will help, dg even has a head pipe and exhaust combo that is very tough, but IMO fmf makes a better pipe for mid-range, both are available online shops for around $250. 5. 4stroketech has a 446cc bore&stroke job that is straight up beast for more power, downside if you don't disassemble and re-assemble it your self, you'll be in it over $1,000. 6. wheels and tires. yes aftermarket wheels and tires will make your machine feel night and day between stock. $700 for a great set-up on ebay, all you do is bolt them on. 7. gearing off of a big bear or kodiak. I personally haven't done this on any of my bikes because I am a top-end fly guy, but I have buddies that are all about the mud and low-end grunt, and they swear by it. Hi-lifter has this available on their web site, not sure of the cost, but it's under $380 installed at your local shop, or should be. 8. iridium spark plugs are an ez help too. 9. Your stock shocks are adjustable, make sure they are cranked up to their tightest setting, less springy bounce, more tighter control, more power to the ground faster. I hope this helps, keep me up to date if you like, or if you run into any probs., maybe I can help or at least steer you in the right direction. Good Luck man!
07350r
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The above are definately good working modds. From my experience, Cam, 11:1 compression piston on stock bore, you will still be able to run on 93 octane with no worries, any higher on the compression and you will have to use 110 race fuel. Dyno Jet Jet kit jetted with the air box lid on with a slip on pipe of nearly any kind, as for the filter, I ride in dusty terrain so I prefer a UNI, still flows better than stock just catches all of the smaller stuff a K&N won't. That piston and cam will make that thing feel like a fricken race car, HUGE difference, will feel like you bolted on a supercharger. If followed to the T, a Dyno Jet Kit with the lid on will help all of the above and after installing a dozen or so of them, I have never had a jetting issue after with one of there kits. Good luck and have fun with it.
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8BU
Member
thanks for your advice. I'm going to start with the air box, jetting, then a pipe. The kodiak gears should give it more grunt and about 7 mph more top end.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
