+1 intake???????

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DeadLastRacing

DeadLastRacing

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1mm is tiny. Does it really make that much difference? 40mm stock to 41mm over-sized almost looks to be the same size when I lay my old one on top of the new +1. Its kind of deceiving. I guess I'll find out. Any +1 guys out there have word of encouragement for the reason to upgrade?
 
DeadLastRacing said:
1mm is tiny. Does it really make that mush difference? 40mm stock to 41mm over-sized almost looks to be the same size when I lay my old one on top of the new +1. Its kind of deceiving.
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Haha it helps some ecpetially with the porting. Just another part you can say you have lol
 
It is only .040" but the biggest thing I noticed is the tulip shape on the stem side versus the flatter shape of the stock valve. Has to help that flow transition a little!!
 
That new exhaust valve I put in there is tulip shaped versus the stock flat radius. Didn't have it when I flowed the final time, but I bet it is an improvement in flow on the exhaust side over stock as well.
 
local guy here at Power Sport Dynamics told me that +1mm isn't worth it. With the right port job you can get just as much flow on standard size intake.
 
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elwood said:
local guy here at Power Sport Dynamics told me that +1mm isn't worth it. With the right port job you can get just as much flow on standard size intake.
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You gain some flow with it. Is it worth it? I guess it is personal preference. Am I putting one in my own head? Not any more!! Would you feel a difference? Maybe, maybe not. I do like the way the aftermarket valves are more tulip shaped, but for what they cost, still not doing it on mine. If my valve was bad and I needed a replacement then yes I would add the 1mm. Just from what I am seeing, adding a cam, mild port work, and upping compression are the best bang for the buck. I had bought a .440/.390 cam cheap, and now it is going on E-Bay soon. I now plan to run either the .390/.390 or one like Deadlast just had custom done.

Is flow bench testing worth the money? Not in my opinion for what it costs. I actually did Deadlast's for free just for my reference. Unfortunately I messed up the setup on the baseline so didn't learn as much as I had hoped.

Honestly for what some of these companies charge for porting and flowing, I think they are ripping people off. Stock Warrior heads are pretty efficient as cast. The flow work I have messed with recently knocked the wind out of my sails as far as gains on Warrior heads.

There are gains to be made. Just not significant ones. That said, it still does take a fair amount of time to do even mild clean up work on the ports. Time is money for even me. Sadly I think that is all any of them are doing and leading people to believe they have done them a great service. I never have felt comfortable charging a lot for porting for that very reason.
 
Cleanup of a port is not porting imho, I can do one Hell of a nice cleanup job myself, efficient porting is understanding how a port should be shaped, any of us can be patient & follow the factory casting with an emory roll, real port work takes experience & talent. Midway, your work looks very nice, I personally believe you have skill & talent. Time experimenting on a flow bench would greatly benefit you but I also understand that flow bench time costs & isn't easy to come by.
 
I've done both on many automotive heads. Without a flow bench it is not a good idea to play with changing port shape. It is very easy to hurt flow by changing port shape if you do it in the wrong areas. Working on the guide boss and blending sharp edges is porting and yes almost anyone can do it. Many butcher that too, though. We have seen lots of home port jobs on automotive heads come in our shop. Some look nice, but many look like a child did it with an ax. Without a flow bench to prove the work, it is all cosmetics.

All that said, I don't think these companies are doing much more than clean up grinding on Warrior heads. There are not a lot of areas to gain a lot of flow on them because they already flow pretty good.
 
'00 WO-YA! said:
So if you believe that the head flows fairly well in stock form do you contribute the lack of power to the tame cam profile?
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Tame cam profile and low compression. I think the 10:1 piston helps quite a bit and is a happy medium for most who don't want to buy race fuel. 12:1 would be better, but race fuel is expensive. Also since the flow seems to level off above .300-.350 lift, I just don't think the big lift cams help much at all. Duration does play into that too but the flow bench can't tell you what the duration does. There are lots of other variables that the flow bench can't tell you. I think Beastly has done a lot of real world testing of cams and one of his threads had lots of info on what the different cams did for him.

The other problem is the 2 valve 30 year old head design. I personally think the ports are too big and kill velocity. Velocity is better for power than big flow numbers. I think the bigger intake helps some because it helps the size ratio between the valve and the short side radius ratio.

There is an article some where out there where I guy was playing with this ratio. He was putting epoxy in the floor of the port on 4 valve heads. He was shrinking the short side radius to roof size to 65% of the diameter of the valve. Flow numbers weren't high, but he increased power by 8 horse on a 4 valve engine. In the article he said that on a 2 valve head this ratio should be maybe 70-80%. I measured the stock port on a Warrior head the other day, and this ratio factory is 76%. Putting the 1 mm over in there reduces it to 74%. Based on his research that should help the velocity.

I wish I had the resources to port up a few heads and run the thing on a chassis dyno and see what combo made the best power. Gaskets and dyno time would probably not make it cost effective, though
 
Dave76 and Jasonp are gurus at anything motors and cams. Ive read a ton of oooold threads and they know alot about motors and cams. Jason is still with us, its to bad Dave isnt still here (446 warrior).
 
MidwayUSA, what cam do you believe is the best all around for the warrior?

I think the web .415 would be best of both worlds, a mid cam, not lowend happy nor do you have to rev the **** out of it to hit the main HP numbers.
 
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