Warrior/Raptor 350 Oil cooling

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also do i need to fill the lines and cooler with oil before i start it up. it wouldnt be that hard.
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This is kind of a yes and no... Will it harm the motor no because the oil cooler ONLY gets the extra oil and there is no "dry spot" caused by the cooler. BUT the filling of the cooler for the first time does make the oil level drop. What I do is this... I take the plug out and crank the motor over 10 times or so to let the oil cooler fill up. I then check the oil level and fill up as needed and repeat tell the level remains constant. I have found that with a filter change and a bone dry drain she takes about 3.2 Quarts of oil with the cooler setup.
 
what direction do i mount the cooler, do i make the barb fittings point up towards the handlebars or down towards the tires
 
Point them up. That will ensure that the entire cooler gets filled with oil and you get full use of its cooling capacity. This won't matter as much if you have a straight through core design like the hayden. In my case I have a cross flow design where there are multiple parrallel paths for the oil to go. In the cross flow design you can push oil through the lower half of the cooler and trap air in the upper half. In either case its probably a good idea to point them up.
 
cool thanks no i just have to wait on parts to come, can i use the warrior bolts or do i have to ordrer big bear bolts
 
Here are a couple pics of the clutch cover method. These are just a couple of the holes I just drilled.
Easy just gotta tap and put install fittings.
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cool thanks no i just have to wait on parts to come, can i use the warrior bolts or do i have to ordrer big bear bolts
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I assume you mean the bolts for the filter cover/adapter? In that case you will need longer bolts to work with the big bear setup, it's about 2 inches thicker.
 
ok I may be way off on this but I am really wanting an oil cooler and trying to decide which method to choose. Deaths looks like the no brainer to me if ya wanna spend the $$ and do it right. Outkastjoe's is the way to go if ya wanna save $$, although it seems to me that you would want the oil fittings to be lower on the clutch case?? I'm probably wrong so please clarify for me cause I think I will go the cheap route if y'all think it will be effective.
Thanks
 
The method is effective but the bigbear design ultimately has better options and you don’t damage a 140$ cover (clutch cover) in the process to make it work. You can shove the stock cap back on and take the oil cooler off in the event of damage to any parts and still ride tell you have money to fix it (with bigbear). Among other things I believe the bigbear method is designed better for a multitude of reasons but for the people making their decision on cost this option is better.
 
I was really worried about screwing up the cover. But I didn't. All I can say is that this was easy the filter cover method should be even easier(no drillin). If that is what your scurred of or you suck at drilling shtuff then I would do it the outher way. Either way helps. I first seen this method from another board. There was a big stinkn about it because Mickey Dunlop said somebody copied his method. If you order a cooler from FST you will get one similar to this. This is a qoute from his post where he explained how it works. It is how I made my decision. Its not pretty he was kind pissy when he wrote this they had a big fight on BT about this topic:

Now back to the oil cooler question - I have explained it several times on here but I will go into a little more detail. First of all, I drill and tap into the clutch cover to feed the 40 degree colder oil into the end of the crank to give the Warrior the coldest oil to the highest wear area - the bottom-end rod bearing. Only somebody that builds engines everyday would know the problem areas on each type of motor. The 40 degree colder oil travels 3" through the motor before it reaches the bottom-end rod bearing then it throws it out from around the bottom-end rod bearing onto the cylinder walls and piston keeping everything running cooler and lasting longer than any other system. The oil filter systems run the cooler oil through 20" of oil lines and oil galleyways before the oils reaches the top-end of the motor and about 15" before it reaches the end of the crankshaft. These oil coolers cool the oil temperature approximately 10-15 degrees by the time it hits the crankshaft area. You can make your own decision on what you want to do - spend less than $100 on a system that has been proven for 15 years or spend $200 to $300 on a system that doesn't even work 1/2 as good. Bad mouth me all you want - you get what you pay for.
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I am not saying scared of damaging it from drilling I am saying ultimately you damage the clutch cover for good by putting holes in it in the event you want to take the oil cooler off. 40*F cooler oil is A LOT; there is such a thing as over cooling the machine as well... As far as reversibility, ease, and oil pressure regulation/backflow the bigbear method is superior. When Yamaha Motor Corporation designed that cooler it was to cool a 400cc motor the SAME as ours to keep it with in proper temperature range. In the winter time 40*F colder can be especially bad for operating range temperatures especially if you ice race like some of us...

So what happens if it’s kept to cold where you live? then what? With the bigbear setup u can remove the cooler in conditions like that easily in 3 minutes. I have been meaning to install a digital oil temp gauge so I can watch the temps as im riding in all conditions.

Anyway my point was both systems work, and both systems will cool the over all ambient temperature of the oil. The bigbear setup for now until proven otherwise has proven to be great and the most simplistic (slightly more expensive) bolt on oil pressure/backflow regulating easily removed mod.

Would Dunlop speak in favor of any other then in HIS own oil cooling kit? The forty degrees with that kit seems quite drastic but hey he’s making money on it why would he exaggerate or market his own product right… 

Bottom line: An oil cooler in general is better then no oil cooler at all for our modded warriors that run hotter.
 
When I get a temp gauge I may have to remove the big bear setup and try this setup as well (I have a spare clutch cover in the shed) so I can watch the dif; I am curious now to see if it will indeed back up his claim of being that much cooler.
 
;DYou are right. Either way is good. Weigh the Pros and Cons and decide. Me I am never takiing this off. I will be living in Southern California and riding in the desert.
I will more post more pics when I block off the oil passage. If you want them.
Its kinda hard to get this done and watch a 4month old baby. So it may take awhile. ;D

Oh yeah I was scurred of damaging it when I drilled. It took me a few months to get the balls to just do it.
 
You can buy a spare clutch cover on ebay any day of the week! Then if your worried about being too cool in the winter then just put the other one on and pull out the oil cooler. Doesnt seem difficult at all and cheaper:)
 
or if the bigbear setup is indeed only 15-20*F cooler vs 40*F + cooler u can run it all around if your in a cold climate with no real effects.
 
Do you have any new pics or tips on the liquid steel? I am thinking about testing this out soon in a controlled experiment to compare cooling ability with my spare clutch cover.
 
Are you sure that Hayden cooler fits under the hood???

I looked under there and there doesn't appear to be much room.
 
Yes the Hayden however will stick out a little on the bottom and u need to bend 2 or 3 fins to get around the plastic mounting brackets
 
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