Reverse lock out

[Glenn]

I don't think I've posted this here as of yet.....

The reverse lockout does not work on my machine. Basically, I can go from first, right to reverse without turning the knob. On a ride earlier this season, it made for some interesting situations. 1) I backed into my buddy when going from a standstill 2) I backed into my other buddy when coming to a stop before going up a clump of rocks. That one is on video. :lol:

Last season, I was thinking of fixing this issue; until I realized both clutches needed to be pulled out. How hard is it to remove both of the clutched? I've done a clutch job before on a sport machine, and that wa pretty easy.

Now back to the reverse issue. I've seen a few pics of the reverse lever and how it atuates inside the case. Basically, it contacts a "stop" on the shift drum. I'm thinking that maybe the lever inside the case is bent? I guess the stop could be broken off the drum, but I would think that would have cause some serious issues if it was ratting around the case.

 

[Rods]

Same exact problem here with reverse. It's nice to have your buddies see you smash your face into the front rack at the bottum of a hill thinking your in first. My nuetral/reverse switches are not making ground either. I'm thinking the same thing you are with a bent lever inside the case. I too need to check out the clutches and will probably do a Barnett disk exchange once I am in there. I have cork material in my engine filter and will need to address it real soon.

 

[Glenn]

That's good to know Steve. You're the first person aside from myself who has this issue. I just hope it's and easy fix.

 

[95Wolverine]

Hey Glenn.... Maybe you should think about making a trip up here so we can get yours fixed before Pittsfield! Then you can be the man with the answers.

 

[Glenn]

If not before Pittsfield, certainly over the winter. 8)

I'm just wondering what I should order for parts. I'd hate to get it all apart, and then figure out I need a new lockout arm or something. I guess I'd rather have too many parts and be able to fix it once we get everything apart.

 

[95Wolverine]

Clutch cover gasket (I have a used spare in excellent shape just in case), Locknut for primary Clutch, and I have no idea what else....... oh, some Blue RTV silicone - of which, I have that as well.

Or have we determined that it's on the other side? If so, you'd need the gasket an no idea what else.

If I had to guess, I'd say that the bolt holding the lockout arm has backed out a bit and the arm has popped off of the cam it rides on. Either that or the spring that keeps the arm tight has come off of one end or the other.

 

[Glenn]

Robert,
Good call! I've talked with someone else here (used to post on ATV connection...he has a built Wolverine as well) and he suggested that spring may be the issue.

Thinking off of the top of my head....gasket (already have), bolt that holds the arm to the case, spring and arm(just in case the one in there is bent.

Up for a winter project? I'll trailer it over! :lol:

 

[95Wolverine]

Since we have to open it up to diagnose your reverse lockout, might as well have the primary clutch kit springs from EPI to go in it as well. It'll help out with your low end grunt.

Killing two birds with one stone sorta deal!

 

[Rods]

I sure would like to be kept up to date as to what you guys find. i will be facing the same kind of fix after the first of the year. Next, the Barnett Kevlar clutch disc kit comes with 5 springs. Are these as good as the EPI you mention or should I bite the bullet and go for the EPI's?

 

[Glenn]

Robert,
Sounds like a plan! I like the "While I have it apart" justification. Where can I get those springs?

Steve,
For sure! I'll be sure to take pics and do a write up. Anything to make life easier for you or anyone else who needs to do this.

 

[ctateusa1]

ebay had some listed on it last week.

 

[Glenn]

Thanks, I'll look over there. 8)

 

[95Wolverine]

Rods... I might be out in left field, but I think the Barnet kit is for the secondary clutch - basket type with replacement discs and the springs to go with it.

The kit I speak of is the EPI which is just springs and is used to change the Primary clutch engagement point - lets the rpms come up higher before engaging.

If E-bay doesn't have any listed, you can get them from bc-offroad.com - I've delt with the owner (Bryan) for quite a while and he's a good guy. In your checkout box, tell him Robert @ metricpowersports sent you over.

 

[Rods]

O.k. cool thanks for the leed.
No your not in left. Looked at the repare cd and the parts list. I am assuming the 5 springs that come with Barnett are the secondary compression springs. I will go for the EPI on the primary as I eventually will be turning 25's in the future. Now, if only that money tree would bloom!

 

[Glenn]

I think we're all waiting for that tree! :lol:

 

[Rods]

Update on the nuetral straight to reverse problem: My reverse shifter arm bracket had too much of a gap between it & the shift cam assembly. So, built arm up w/buttons of weld and reshaped to close gap. Works great! Now the rev/neutral lights were not working so cleaned the brass contacts on switch & contact on shift cam, now have lights. Note: this switch is expensive & not a mechanical switch- it is brass contacts molded in plastic. Chances of having a "bad" switch are slim. Probably most of the time need cleaning as what I did. Went for a Barnett carbon fiber clutch kit & EPI primary's & works great. Hope this helps.