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during summer i use the same oil diesels use....it reduces alotta wear on the engine...
 
Marcmad said:
What is the best engine oil for the warrior ?
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Just pick any known good brand-name oil, in the weight range Yamaha specifies, and it'll be just fine.
 
I don't want to start another one of these oil arguments again, but I disagree, i've seen it more than once when regular automotive oil turns a perfectly good clutch to garbage. Automotive oils simply weren't designed with a wet clutch in mind, and all those additives to reduce friction will work against what your clutch is trying to do, create friction. I'd say any name brand oil that's wet clutch safe will be fine, although I wasn't that impressed with valvoline atv/motorcycle oil. That seemed to make my clutch a little more slippery than normal as well. I usually run maxima or silkolene, whatever is cheaper at the time.
 
YamaRider said:
I don't want to start another one of these oil arguments again, but I disagree, i've seen it more than once when regular automotive oil turns a perfectly good clutch to garbage. Automotive oils simply weren't designed with a wet clutch in mind, and all those additives to reduce friction will work against what your clutch is trying to do, create friction. I'd say any name brand oil that's wet clutch safe will be fine, although I wasn't that impressed with valvoline atv/motorcycle oil. That seemed to make my clutch a little more slippery than normal as well. I usually run maxima or silkolene, whatever is cheaper at the time.
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Looks at Jasons recent Clutch slip topic....

"Clutch-safe" oil caused his clutch to slip. We've been told over the years that auto oils contain additives that are harmful to wet-clutches. The problem is, that MC specific oils contain the exact same additives. Theres plenty of oils thats contain molybdenum (the primary friction modifier) than passes the JASO 4T-MA test. For years, we were told how evil friction modifiers were, and now theyre in common use in MC oils.

One of the guys on my site recently did VOA's on Mobil-1 MX4T 10w40, and Mobil-1 Auto 10w30. They contained the exact same primary additives, moly, zinc/phos, etc. Only the most minor differences in quantity. Same base-stocks:

M1 Synth 10w30
B (Boron): 275ppm
Ca (Calcium): 3001ppm
Mg (Magnesium): 18ppm
P (Phosphorus): 920ppm
Zn (Zinc): 1035ppm
Mo (Molybdenum): 88ppm

M1 MX4T 10w40
B (Boron): 230ppm
Ca (Calcium): 2465ppm
Mg (Magnesium): 40ppm
P (Phosphorus): 1180ppm
Zn (Zinc): 1315ppm
Mo (Molybdenum): 90ppm

Remember, these are in Parts Per Million. When calculated as a %, theres is no real difference in these oils.
 
In Jasons case, he has a clutch thats been polished in quite well, its going to respond accordingly when switching to a full synthetic. If that clutch had been broken in with synth, it'd be fine. Fortunately, its an easy fix.

Dino oil, blends, and synths all polish-in clutch components. The degree and manner in which they do it is a little different. Dino will polish more, synth will polish much less. If you polish it good with dino, and then give it something more slippery like synth... yeah, theres a good chance its gonna slip.

Some clutches are more sensitive to that than others.
 
rofl any facts to back that up...haahaha...ok fine diesel oil such as shell rotella t 15-40(what i use) has alot of zinc in it which is a high shear and pressure additive used only in diesel oil, Used to be in car oil but thanks to the EPA it now mostly gone, The zinc is real good for the tranny and our engines dont care if its there or not, Diesel engine oils are designed for extended service under high stress conditions and are wet-clutch compatible also , go talk to Amsoil and see what else they say but it works really well in motorcycles...and ill prolly always use...plus i get it for free lol
 
Rotella T is good stuff, A LOT of guys on my site use it in their Bandits, DR350's, and Katana's. Its also real popular with the SV guys. The additive packages for diesel are a bit more robust, they dont have the same content restraints as auto and MC oils do.

Zinc is an excellent anti-wear additive, its primary purpose is to act as a last line of defense for metal to metal contact. As a result, as was mentioned, it makes it fantastic for MC transmissions, and diesel oil tends to have a more of it compared to auto oils (as well as phos, mag, and calc'). Most car oils still contain zinc, the VOA for the Mobil 10w30 shows it.

The nice thing, at least of the VOA's I've seen for diesel oils, they have pretty much no moly in them at all. Its as about as wet-clutch safe as you can get.
 
Also remember that the certification requirements for an oil to become JASO certified have remained virtually unchanged since 1993. Oil technology has come a long ways in the past 15 years and even if an oil meets the antiquated certification of JASO does not mean it is the best oil for your machine today.

I also run Shell Rotella T synthetic in my quads for the reasons stated above plus many other reasons.
 
PaleRider said:
Also remember that the certification requirements for an oil to become JASO certified have remained virtually unchanged since 1993. Oil technology has come a long ways in the past 15 years and even if an oil meets the antiquated certification of JASO does not mean it is the best oil for your machine today.

I also run Shell Rotella T synthetic in my quads for the reasons stated above plus many other reasons.
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For general JASO ratings thats very true, but the JASO MA rating for "wet-clutch safe" application didnt come around until about 2000 or so. JASO made a deal with the motorcycle oil industry so that a new propaganda tool could be created. JASO makes money from certs, MC Oil makes money by scaring people into using only their MC products. Its a win/win for them, and a big lose for consumers.

It is starting to backfire a bit though, more and more people are running into issues with MA rated oil for their MC's and ATV's.
 
Griff said:
Rotella T is good stuff, A LOT of guys on my site use it in their Bandits, DR350's, and Katana's. Its also real popular with the SV guys. The additive packages for diesel are a bit more robust, they dont have the same content restraints as auto and MC oils do.

Zinc is an excellent anti-wear additive, its primary purpose is to act as a last line of defense for metal to metal contact. As a result, as was mentioned, it makes it fantastic for MC transmissions, and diesel oil tends to have a more of it compared to auto oils (as well as phos, mag, and calc'). Most car oils still contain zinc, the VOA for the Mobil 10w30 shows it.

The nice thing, at least of the VOA's I've seen for diesel oils, they have pretty much no moly in them at all. Its as about as wet-clutch safe as you can get.
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Thank you griff, this is excalty what I was looking for. :)
 
yep but think point blank diesel oils have more phosphurous and zinc and are specially formulated to work with wet clutches and are made to handle way higher milages then any other oils...synthetics are also great for motorcycles...and syn isnt any slippery than petroleum oil lol..synthetic oil is more uniform in molecular structure than a petroleum oil but it is not more slippery, look at it this way. wet sandpaper removes paint as well as dry sandpaper does. the slipperiness of the water does not impede the sandpaper's ability to function. the same applies to the slipperiness of synthetic lubes in wet clutches. It is simply not an issue. however, just as rinsing the sandpaper keeps it cleaner longer so it functions better longer, so the synthetic lubricant keeps wet clutch plates cleaner longer so they function better. And, since synthetics are superior cooling agents to conventional petroleum lubes, using synthetics will help wet clutches last longer too, so "slippery" lol just drop that one...
 
91warrior357 said:
...and syn isnt any slippery than petroleum oil lol..synthetic oil is more uniform in molecular structure than a petroleum oil but it is not more slippery,
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Actually, synth is more slippery.... any ASTM 4-ball wear test shows that.
 
Ive been using Rotella T 15w40 for about a year now... Id move to the synthetic, however the only grade i find around here is maybe a 5w40 is this ok for summer riding? what grade synthetic rotella do you run?
 
and jholmes rotella is what i use also but if you want to try out synthetic then look up amsoil 10w-40 synthetic motocycle oil or the 20w-50 whichever...its good stuff
 
91warrior357 said:
yep but think point blank diesel oils have more phosphurous and zinc and are specially formulated to work with wet clutches and are made to handle way higher milages then any other oils...synthetics are also great for motorcycles...and syn isnt any slippery than petroleum oil lol..synthetic oil is more uniform in molecular structure than a petroleum oil but it is not more slippery, look at it this way. wet sandpaper removes paint as well as dry sandpaper does. the slipperiness of the water does not impede the sandpaper's ability to function. the same applies to the slipperiness of synthetic lubes in wet clutches. It is simply not an issue. however, just as rinsing the sandpaper keeps it cleaner longer so it functions better longer, so the synthetic lubricant keeps wet clutch plates cleaner longer so they function better. And, since synthetics are superior cooling agents to conventional petroleum lubes, using synthetics will help wet clutches last longer too, so "slippery" lol just drop that one...
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I wonder why would my clutch slip going to synthetic oil if it wasn't slippier of an oil? I thought there was a bunch of testing done on a dyno where people would change out all there oil for a synthetic type and gain like 10 horse or something. I thought they said the right on the tv that this is because it is slippier oil..
Also I thought diesels used more zinc to control the soot from compression blow by in the oil or thinning of the oil??
 
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