Clutch - Replace, Adjust, any Recos? 2002 350 Wolvie

[roamerr]

Put some 25" Mudlite AT's on my 2002 Wolverine approx 2 months ago. Went hill climbing/creek playing today and noticed that it I stopped coming out of the creek (steep hill) the wolverine would not spin the tires if stopped and then tried going again.

Basically with full throttle the wheels stayed still unless I used momentum to keep moving. Very frustrating to be on a hill and not being able to move forward.

Is this showing time for clutch replacement or springs? Does the freeplay adjustment have anything to do with this?

Any advise and recommendations? If I change the clutch springs the EPI kit sounds good. Any reco on clutch plates? 8)

 

[95Wolverine]

We'll need to know what machine it is you ride - specifically year (older style vs. newer style thing) and engine size. Once we have that, we can point you in the right direction.

 

[roamerr]

2002 Wolverine 350 4x4. Stock other the the 25" mud lites.

I am planning on having the EIP clutch springs installed. The extra 500 rpm stall on the clutch should help. I have talked about it with several people and it seems that the issue is just not a low enough gear for the 25" wheels and a really steep hill with the current autoclutch.

This does make me wish for more power or a manual clutch....

 

[95Wolverine]

My question is... when you say you were @ full throttle and the wheels weren't moving, was the engine actually revved up to full throttle?

I've actually had mine in between two boulders and the only time I couldn't make the tires move was when I was in such a bind that the engine didn't have enough power to rotate the tires - thus, the rpm's never came up much over idle.

If your rpms where high, then it sounds like you need to adjust the free play in the cluch in order to get full engagement. This particular machine has two clutches - first is the auto cluch which disconnects the crank from the tranny. This cluch is momentum controlled (IE, it engages as the rpms come up) and is not adjustable other than replacing springs.

The second cluch is one used to disconnect the primary drive input from the tranny between gears and is activated during motion from the foot shifter. This clutch is adjustable via an adjuster nut / slotted screw in one of the engine side covers. If memory serves me correctly its on the right side as you sit on the quad. There is an adjustment proceedure and I think it's outlined in the owner's manual. If you can't find it, let us know and I'll try and scrounge up my owner's / service manuals - they are still in a box somewhere after the move to CT.

 

[roamerr]

Thanks for the reply 95Wolverine.

I was trying to come up out of a creek. The hill was very steep with basically a 16" wall before an incline. I made it up over the wall and then when trying to rev higher the wolverine just sat still. The wheels did not spin. The RPM's maybe were 2000 or so -- definitely not 5000 rpm.

I backed back down and gave it a run at it and made it. Without momentum it would not do it.

I blame it on my new 25" Mud-Lites. I have an EPI clutch kit (5 spings) on order. Hoping that will give me enough rpm to turn the tires when I try it again.

I am considering an HFM exhaust and rejet also but from comments it seems that is mainly top-end power.... I hate to go back to 23's but that may be the only great option.

 

[95Wolverine]

Well, I found a post that has the secondary clutch adjustment proceedure - it's something I do likely once a year if I've ridden enough to warrant it - or done some seriously hard climbs that would cause some slippage through the secondary.

I'm thinking if your rpms didn't come up, it's likely a power stall issue. The best thing to do for that is as you've already done - order different springs. Since my quad's older, and the clutch shoes are different, I was able to lighten the weights themselves as EPI doesn't make a spring kit (even though they say they do) for the '95. It made a difference, but I was hoping for just a scosch more.

Keep us posted on if the springs solve your issue.

I guess I'm one of the fortunate few that has a smooth trans. This might have something to do with it also....when I start my bike I let it warm up for a little while. Maybe 2-3 minutes is all it takes. Shifts fine even in the dead of winter. May be as simple as an adjustment too. That clutch adjusting thing on the side of the left case cover should be.........well, this is what the manual says:

CLUTCH FREE PLAY ADJUSTMENT STEPS:

Loosen lock nut.
Slowly turn the adjuster COUNTERCLOCKWISE until resistance is felt.
Turn it 1/8 turn CLOCKWISE.

NOTE: Turn the adjuster counterclockwise to DECREASE the clutch free play and turn it clockwise to INCREASE the free play.

That's it...hope this helps someone.

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