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will shift forks do me any good?

lose bottom end.. but the top end is amazing on it!

i was just curious as what would be the best if there is any way to freshen up my tranny beacause i just had to pull my crank and wanted to see if there was any way to do this! i was thinking new shift forks??? any help would be great!!

you used to be able to order these through alba action but they dont have a warrior section... so if anyone has any or any leads to a .40over 12:1 piston for the warrior let me know!

im ready man!( in about 3 weeks) and yeah i did seize my connecting rod too... and another question do you guys know where to get a set of yfz 450 shocks checked out and and rechared at a good price?

the title says it all ... what would make more power in my warrior i have hmf pipe jetted for no lid uni filter p+p megacycles big cam, and currently running 12:1 compression she locked up at crow canyon sunday and just want sum insight as to what will make more power (12:1 or 10.5:1 bored .40...

ok damn.... well... what brand were they??!

it seems not one company makes extended a arms for these bikes.... and my only option is a widening kit from diamond j customs and i dont want to go that route if i dont have to... any suggestions???? :P

and jetting suggestions for the larger cam mild port and polish with 12:1 compression and an hmf pipe running an open airbox at 1000 ft above sea level???

yeah the hotter the worse basically the cam mfg. recommends 6 thou on intake and exhaust... its set at that today it ran like **** let it idle for 5 mins ran it, it ran amazing then fell on its face again! so i dont even know i cleaned my carb set everything back to stack with a 152.5 because...

what is the proper float height and how can i adjust to this?? im pretty sure i got it but i did not know when you open the drain screw fuel comes out of the over flow i thought it came out the screw hole?!?!

if you have a stock carb... try a #45 pilot a 157.5 main (pending your elevation) im from ohio.. 2.25 turns out on your fuel screw make sure idle is good and check the tension on your timing chain because if whoever built your engine used the stock chain with the piston and cam... its probably...

one thing use the proper size screw drivers and can explain how soft and malleable he brass is!!! make sure they fit the slots snug

and it idles down fine no popping... and basically as soon as you give it gas it will start to pop and shoot flames there is also no burning oil the top end is fresh!

well as soon as you give it any throttle after ten minutes of riding it will pop especially going straight into WOT, IT IS POPPING OUT OF THE EXHAUST how can engine temp effect fuel mixture?? and is the popping and flame shooting a result of rich or lean?? and with a larger cam do i need to...

ok.. i posted a couple weeks ago about pilot jets and what not the bike has been sitting for a minute since we figured out the jetting... the bike runs amazing now through all rpm ranges with no hesitation or popping.. until about 10 minutes of run time!(when it reaches operating temp. i do have...

i have a 12:1 its all in your head any air cooled engine will be too hot to touch it will be at operating temp upwards of 300* if not more!

i was given the run around today for pilot jets i live 30 mins from carb parts warehouse.. no luck with them i think dennis kirk has em but i want to make sure where did you guys get all of your bigger pilot jets at???

the dealer wasnt able to get them what is the mikuni part number for the main jets

thanks ds warrior thats exactly what i was thinking but i called dennis kirk and my local dealer and no one knows where to get the bigger pilot jets where did you guys get yours from???