elwood
Well-Known Member
yeah do the ends and paint the center that would look cool
Case drilled oil cooling
- Thread starter 3504life
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1998yamahawarrior
Well-Known Member
Quit compounding it, Im really starting to think about not doing it.
elwood
Well-Known Member
lmao
elwood
Well-Known Member
think of the finished product
duneracerweston
Well-Known Member
It looks killer after its done only takes most of a day
elwood
Well-Known Member
98 that starter would look sick with a yellow center section and polished ends on that black motor
duneracerweston
Well-Known Member
i ve never thought about painting the center I bet a blue center on mine would look good but ditto ^^
1998yamahawarrior
Well-Known Member
The final decision will come once the beadlocks get here.
duneracerweston
Well-Known Member
Don't forget to polish the timing chain tensioner too!!!!!
elwood
Well-Known Member
I"d paint it yellow same with cam cover, then paint the ribs of the cam cover black
1998yamahawarrior
Well-Known Member
We'll see, I have til I get everything rounded up for my little biuld up in the motor to decide. Plan on waiting till then, since most of that will already be off. Still trying for Elite, but Ive never seen an one with a stock motor. So Ill just decide while I gather parts.
3504life
Well-Known Member
i just dont understand the liquid steel part of the insturctions
elwood
Well-Known Member
here you go I got this from another site....
Supplies Needed
1- #401 Oil Cooler from Autozone, or smallest tranny cooler you can find. $25 to $30.00
8 feet of 3/8" oil cooler hose @ $1.00/ft from Autozone. $8.00
2- 90 degree brass fittings with 1/8-27 National Pipe Thread from hardware store. $2.00
2-3/8" brass hose barbs with 1/8-27 NPT from hardware store. $2.00
OIL COOLER INSTALLATION
Clutch Cover Modification:
1) Drain engine oil and remove clutch cover located on right side of engine. Use solvent to clean oil and gasket off completely.
2) Drill through the cover from the inside. Use the existing hole as a guide. (use a bit that fits inside the hole) See figure A. It should look the same when you are finished.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized %1%2 and weights %3.
3) Drill from the outside with a 5/16” drillbit being careful not to drill into the hole in the oil galley. The inside of the cover should remain the same as stock.
4) Follow oil galley up 1 1/8” from the hole. Use the 5/16” drill bit to drill a hole from the outside of the cover being careful not to drill through the oil galley.
5) Using a 1/8-27 NPT tap, tap both holes completely through. Use some oil for lubrication and work the tap slowly. Test fit the 90° fittings. Completely remove all metal shavings with solvent or soapy water and dry completely.
6) Mix up a small amount of liquid steel (epoxy putty). Using a small blade screwdriver, force the liquid metal into the oil galley. Block off the oil galley between the two holes only. Make sure not to block off the holes for the oil cooler lines. It is very important that the material dries completely. I like the putty because it is easy to work with and is strong stuff.
7) Install both of the 90° fittings using thread sealant. Install the hose barbs using sealant also. Figure B shows the fittings installed.
Oil Cooler Mounting:
1) Remove front plastic for easy access to the frame rails.
2) Place cooler in desired position. It may be necessary to bend some of the fins out of the way…this will not cause any problems. The coil mounting bracket may interfere with the oil cooler lines. Use a block of wood and a hammer to bend the bracket for clearance.
3) After finalizing the location, stick the rubber pads on the frame tubes under the four corners of the oil cooler. It will be easier to install the oil lines on the cooler before mounting it down. Use Zip Ties to hold the cooler firmly in place. Figure C shows the cooler in place.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized %1%2 and weights %3.
4) You may want to trim the plastic for more airflow. This is optional, and NOT necessary.
Finishing Installation:
*This would be a good time to change the oil filter
1) Install clutch cover. A new gasket is recommended.
2) Route cooler lines being careful not to kink them or come into contact with the exhaust. Do not secure the lines at this time, only figure out routing and proper length.
3) Fill the oil cooler with the proper oil. Route the cooler lines and connect them to the fittings with hose clamps. Use Zip Ties to secure the oil lines to the frame.
4) Fill the engine with oil using dipstick to gauge. The engine will hold more oil now due to the cooler. Run engine to completely fill cooler and lines with oil and top off to the “Full” level on the dipstick.
5) Run engine until oil cooler gets warm. This verifies that the oil is flowing through the cooler properly. This may take awhile. Re-check oil level.
ODDS & ENDS
• Take your time with this mod. No holes should puncture the oil galley to the inside of the cover. The original hole is the only one that goes completely through the cover. The cover should look like Figure A. when you are done.
• You can purchase a 1/8-27 NPT tap at Lowe’s for around $3.00.
• Liquid Steel comes in a tube and looks like putty. There are different names for it. It is a type of epoxy and is very strong. It can be found at most auto parts stores. I have used it on sidecases that cracked and it stopped them from leaking.
• I like to use Liquid Teflon for a thread sealant. Teflon tape can also be used.
• Summit Racing sells braided steel hosing that would look and perform very well although it is more costly. Take your time when routing the oil lines and inspect them often for damage due to rubbing or rock hits.
• Keep a small length of hose somewhere on the quad. If something should happen to the cooler or hoses…use the short length to bypass the cooler. Simply attach it from one fitting to the other making sure it does not kink and restrict oil flow. This should get you home.
Supplies Needed
1- #401 Oil Cooler from Autozone, or smallest tranny cooler you can find. $25 to $30.00
8 feet of 3/8" oil cooler hose @ $1.00/ft from Autozone. $8.00
2- 90 degree brass fittings with 1/8-27 National Pipe Thread from hardware store. $2.00
2-3/8" brass hose barbs with 1/8-27 NPT from hardware store. $2.00
OIL COOLER INSTALLATION
Clutch Cover Modification:
1) Drain engine oil and remove clutch cover located on right side of engine. Use solvent to clean oil and gasket off completely.
2) Drill through the cover from the inside. Use the existing hole as a guide. (use a bit that fits inside the hole) See figure A. It should look the same when you are finished.
3) Drill from the outside with a 5/16” drillbit being careful not to drill into the hole in the oil galley. The inside of the cover should remain the same as stock.
4) Follow oil galley up 1 1/8” from the hole. Use the 5/16” drill bit to drill a hole from the outside of the cover being careful not to drill through the oil galley.
5) Using a 1/8-27 NPT tap, tap both holes completely through. Use some oil for lubrication and work the tap slowly. Test fit the 90° fittings. Completely remove all metal shavings with solvent or soapy water and dry completely.
6) Mix up a small amount of liquid steel (epoxy putty). Using a small blade screwdriver, force the liquid metal into the oil galley. Block off the oil galley between the two holes only. Make sure not to block off the holes for the oil cooler lines. It is very important that the material dries completely. I like the putty because it is easy to work with and is strong stuff.
7) Install both of the 90° fittings using thread sealant. Install the hose barbs using sealant also. Figure B shows the fittings installed.
Oil Cooler Mounting:
1) Remove front plastic for easy access to the frame rails.
2) Place cooler in desired position. It may be necessary to bend some of the fins out of the way…this will not cause any problems. The coil mounting bracket may interfere with the oil cooler lines. Use a block of wood and a hammer to bend the bracket for clearance.
3) After finalizing the location, stick the rubber pads on the frame tubes under the four corners of the oil cooler. It will be easier to install the oil lines on the cooler before mounting it down. Use Zip Ties to hold the cooler firmly in place. Figure C shows the cooler in place.
4) You may want to trim the plastic for more airflow. This is optional, and NOT necessary.
Finishing Installation:
*This would be a good time to change the oil filter
1) Install clutch cover. A new gasket is recommended.
2) Route cooler lines being careful not to kink them or come into contact with the exhaust. Do not secure the lines at this time, only figure out routing and proper length.
3) Fill the oil cooler with the proper oil. Route the cooler lines and connect them to the fittings with hose clamps. Use Zip Ties to secure the oil lines to the frame.
4) Fill the engine with oil using dipstick to gauge. The engine will hold more oil now due to the cooler. Run engine to completely fill cooler and lines with oil and top off to the “Full” level on the dipstick.
5) Run engine until oil cooler gets warm. This verifies that the oil is flowing through the cooler properly. This may take awhile. Re-check oil level.
ODDS & ENDS
• Take your time with this mod. No holes should puncture the oil galley to the inside of the cover. The original hole is the only one that goes completely through the cover. The cover should look like Figure A. when you are done.
• You can purchase a 1/8-27 NPT tap at Lowe’s for around $3.00.
• Liquid Steel comes in a tube and looks like putty. There are different names for it. It is a type of epoxy and is very strong. It can be found at most auto parts stores. I have used it on sidecases that cracked and it stopped them from leaking.
• I like to use Liquid Teflon for a thread sealant. Teflon tape can also be used.
• Summit Racing sells braided steel hosing that would look and perform very well although it is more costly. Take your time when routing the oil lines and inspect them often for damage due to rubbing or rock hits.
• Keep a small length of hose somewhere on the quad. If something should happen to the cooler or hoses…use the short length to bypass the cooler. Simply attach it from one fitting to the other making sure it does not kink and restrict oil flow. This should get you home.
fperri302
Well-Known Member
Once you get the holes drilled youll see how it works....you just force the liquid steel into the top hole and down the oil gallery ... i kept pushing it in till i seen it squeezing out of the gallery in the bottom hole.. cleaned off the excess and she was good to go
3504life
Well-Known Member
Thanks Elwood for the help. So the epoxy just separates the top an bottom hole?
1998yamahawarrior
Well-Known Member
yep otherwise the oil would never go into the oil cooler. Path of least resistance
3504life
Well-Known Member
but there is only one hole for the oil to get in.. how does it come back out.... sorry im super confused
1998yamahawarrior
Well-Known Member
Normally it comes in threw a galley at the top of the cover and exits that little hole you use as a giude for the first hole.
3504life
Well-Known Member
ahh i see i didnt know there was 2 holes just the one everyone is talking about using a giude. ok thank you
