Woodruff key probleme

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yeah i'mma badass mofo haha.
my current rides are '93 DR650, ( lightly restoring and fixing second gear), yamaha R1, CBR600f4i
 
warriorgirl09 said:
deadlastracing said:
WOW, hahahah, you totally took my "shaft" talk as a serious comment, ahhahahah. Nothing sexual related to shaft talk, here :p

but on a serious note, yeah, you can totally heat warp the shaft. Had it happen to a go-cart engine I had once.

no dude... i was tryin to ignore the perverted statements there but since you've went on with it...
yes i could warp your "shaft" i like it ROUGH and bruises left in the happy tunnel

Haha your pretty cool you outta hang around for a while even though you dont have a warrior anymore lol
 
offroadrider12 said:
that's pretty cool. I wish I could find a girl around here that rides, knows engines, and can weld.

HA! I'd settle for a girl that's not on crack, doesn't look like a bush pig, and doesn't already have children to a small mexican man named Juan. I don't know what the deal is around here but it's gettin to be slim pickins, i'm going to have to move south for a few years or something...
 
warriorgirl09 said:
[quote author=deadlastracing board=quadrelated thread=10443 post=106701 time=1266244671]


no dude... i was tryin to ignore the perverted statements there but since you've went on with it...
yes i could warp your "shaft" i like it ROUGH and bruises left in the happy tunnel
;D ;D ill move too
 
BeastlyWarrior228 said:
warriorgirl09 said:
[quote author=deadlastracing board=quadrelated thread=10443 post=106701 time=1266244671]


no dude... i was tryin to ignore the perverted statements there but since you've went on with it...
yes i could warp your "shaft" i like it ROUGH and bruises left in the happy tunnel
;D ;D ill move too

need your shaft bent too? or is it warped up pretty bad already and need straightened???
 
Mittenz,
Have U got the warrior fixed yet?
If not, do U have a flywheel puller for a warrior?
It takes a special one. U might be able to borrow 1 at a shop or dealer if U know the shop mgr..
1st. lean bike on it's side & take stator cover off. Watch when U take the off cover, the starter cog & shaft with some washers will be on the left of the stator, toward front of engine, try to reach & keep it in the engine case if at all possible & if U can do it, just leave it in the case. Make sure there are no flat washers stuck on the stator case, if it's a 87-89 model there is a flat washer & 2 lock rings & another flat washer on the shaft & the top washer may stick on the stator housing. If it is a 90 or new there is 1 flat washer & then 1 lock ring & it wiil be next to the stator housing. Because of suction in the hole of the cover, the shaft might stick in the stator housing.
1st plug up all the holes in the cases with paper towels so U don't lose the key or anything else when U take the stator off. Remember U don't have to drain the oil if U turn the bike on it's side 1st.
Get flywheel off & make sure the keyway in the stator & the crank are smooth with no burrs. Next take some toilet paper or paper towels & get down in the keyways & dry the grooves up good of oil, if U need to, spray some 409 or something on the paper to dry the oil up. You might want to take a chisle & put a little ding in the bottom of the curved part of the woodruf key on 1 side, that will help it stay in the slot better. Now put some grazy glue in the crank slot. U will probably have to peck the key in very easy to get it to go in the keyway. Let the glue dry good for a few minutes, try to wiggle it a little to see if it's holding, not much or it will break it loose. When U thinks it's dry enough, take the stator & line it up with the woodruf key, make sure all the teeth are in the one way bearing & are down smooth, one way they will be up, like trying to grab to start the engine & the other way flat when it is running, U may need to put some grease all around the bearing to hold the teeth in place, make sure U get a new stator gasket & put it on the engine case & dowel pins 1st. U may need someone to shine a flashlight on the key & crank to help see it better when lineing up the keyways & slide it on the crank very slowly & make sure U don't push the woodruf key out of the groove. When U have that done, take the starter drum for the pull rope thing, on a 87-88 or the starter pulley 89 on, & slide on crank, then screw the bolt & washers in the crank, this will push the stator on till it seats in the 1 way bearing, at this time reach behind stator & see if U can put you finger between the flywheel & stator, U shouldn't be able to if it is pulled down all the way. If all is OK, the flywheel should turn free one way & not the other. Now back screw back out of crank & put on stator housing, make sure starter gear & pin are lining up & make sure stator housing is pulling down even all around the housing & tighten the stator housing on down, don't bind housing for it will bust into pieces. These small 8mm headed srews are suppose to torque at 7.2ft. lbs., but it feels like they will strip out, so I normally just snug them up good by hand, the bolt that goes into crank torques at 36ft. lbs.. This sounds like a lot of stuff to do, but it will take about an hour or so for the 1st. time doing it, even with the drying time of the glue, if it does dry. U may have to use a hair dryer to get it to dry, sometimes it won't dry so I make a bigger dent it the woodruf key & peck it in the crank to hold it in.
I hope this helps. This took over an hour to remember all this in steps & put on here. Good luck & let me know how it went.
 
Nice one man ! i've not fexed it yet but i think i'll do like u said !

DO you think i can use epoxy glue instead on crazy glue ? I have a good brand of epoxy glue with resine and hardenner. I've just ordering my new stock key for now wating for it and the gasket and i'll sent you a feedback.
 
I've took some pictures of this **** if it can help you.

Here you can see my Shaft ;) (clickable thumb)


And this is my key (also clickable)




Thank you !
 
How did it bust both sides of the crank like that? Been around warriors for 13-14 yrs. & never seen anything like that. JB weld might hold it. There is a lot of strain on the stator, so I don't know. If U did use it & it worked for a while & it busted again while U were in the throttle hard, U'd probably have some warped vales at the least or maybe valves through the piston & that may break the rod. Just like a car when the timing belt breaks.
The best thing I could think of, & it's what I would do, is take the bike to a machine shop that has a very good tig welder machine & a person that knows his stuff to weld it. I was in the welding field for 17 yrs. & the last 4 yrs. I was in sales of welding supplies & a good machine shop welder should be able to do this. Don't let them tell U to take the crank out of the cases, that's a lot of extra work & labor to do all that. They can put the bike on a table tall enough to where it's right in front of the person welding it.
Tig welding is hot, but U can control the heat enough to keep from making the crank brittle. There is a product called "carbon", that they can make a duplicate of the woodruf key out of & put in the groove that's left & the crank & weld won't stick to the carbon. They can clamp the carbon in place snuggly & tig up around it & it won't fill up the groove. After that's done, if the woodruf key won't go in the keyway, then take a small drimel tool, & 'SAND" slowly, the groove out till it goes in snuggly like it should. After the keyway is done, smooth up the crank so the stator can slide back on again.
If I had known it was busted on both sides like that I wouldn't have taken 2 hrs. putting that post on there last night & having to remember all that. :( LOL! Good thing I had my warrior repair manual beside me. ;) LOL! After U get it tiged back up, then use the steps on the post from last night to put it back together.
Good luck & Let me know how it goes. ;)
 
From the pics it looks like it's busted out on each side. If it isn't, don't worry about the welding. Smooth up the shaft & just put enough of the epoxy in the groove to hold the key when dried, make sure the key is level in the slot. Should be good. Did U have the off set key for the timing advance or retard & it broke or what happened? If your wanting to advance or retard the timing, there is a cam cog that is drilled for the timing advance or retarding. I don't remember who sells it, but google warrior timing cog or something like that.
 
bad450warrior said:
From the pics it looks like it's busted out on each side. If it isn't, don't worry about the welding. Smooth up the shaft & just put enough of the epoxy in the groove to hold the key when dried, make sure the key is level in the slot. Should be good. Did U have the off set key for the timing advance or retard & it broke or what happened? If your wanting to advance or retard the timing, there is a cam cog that is drilled for the timing advance or retarding. I don't remember who sells it, but google warrior timing cog or something like that.

web camshafts sells the slotted cam sprocket.

however the timing advance you are talking about is two different kinds of advance. The offset flywheel key is giving you ignition (spark) advance

while the camshaft sprocket is giving you cam advance or retard.
 
for the crank i'd use fine grit sand paper to polish most the scaring out then myself i wouldn't trust the epoxy to hold up.. i'd cut a new key but thats just me haha... i trust metal more then i do epoxy.
 
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