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Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum

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here is pics of my warrior for those that havent seen it , and for suggestion purposes

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i resized the pics , there 800x600 on my end ..they shouldnt be "HUGE" anymore...lol
 
BeastlyWarrior228 said:
na just get the annodizing off and get some good tires

not sure what you mean ....

are the factory gold wheels , just anodized.... and if so how do u get it off
 
ok , so ive decided that imma go with the "diamond j" Widening kit it allows you to run all stock components and gain 3" per side in widthcomes with all hardware for under $200

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Warrior-350-A-arms-Shocks-ATV-Widening-Kit-6_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4833b5da67QQitemZ310105201255QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

as i dont really "need" high dollar aftermarket a-arms just lookin to widen the stance a bit and ive read that running spacer on the front stresses the ball joints

also considering gettin the lowering/shock conversion kit as well from the same dealer, it can be used with stock shocks for lowering or used for longer shocks(yfz450..etc)<which is what i would use it for

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Warrior-350-Shocks-Conversion-or-LoweringOnlyKit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4833b5e0d3QQitemZ310105202899QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
 
BeastlyWarrior228 said:
eh maybe hold off on the diamond j customs the money can be better spent elseware at the moment

I agree and if you want to widen it for cheap but it still be tough just get wheel spacers like i have.
 
That widening kit is heavy as **** and really susceptible to bending at the lower connect points. For another $200, you'd have a-arms.
 
Yeah, **** those widening kits. Those kits still limit you to the short travel of the stock a-arms, the welded in ball joints, they use tie rod extenders which just makes it 5 times as likely to break a tie rod, and they add about 25 pounds to the front end. The last thing the warrior needs is more **** to break and more weight on the front end, not an even trade at all for $200. Widening quads is really overrated sometimes, just learn how to ride and you'll be fine, it shouldn't be anywhere on your list of big priorities right now. And when you're ready to widen it the RIGHT way, go with real aftermarket parts, extended a-arms and shocks set up to match, not that Diamond J hillbilly chop shop ****. Even using their kit for longer shocks is an accident waiting to happen. Suspension setup is a science, you can't just take random **** from other machines with totally different geometry and expect it to work right. You'll bind up the ball joints and tie rod ends with those longer shocks before the rubber bump stops even begin to come in contact.

Wheel spacers have their own set of problems as well, as do offset wheels. Suspension is designed in the factory by ENGINEERS that have a very good understanding of how this **** works. Adding your extra width past the ball joints puts a tremendous amount of stress on not just the ball joints, but the tie rods, wheel bearings, and even the frame and shocks. Adding the extra width that way actually ends up completely cancelling out the extra stability because it just puts that much more leverage on the shocks that the whole front end is softer and more prone to rolling in the corners. On top of that it also noticably increases steering effort and bump steer/kickback in rough terrain, it'll kick you ass badly compared to the proper geometry it comes with from the factory.

That's my opinion, I hate it when people do **** half ass, it's just a waste of money and a safety hazard and a reliability issue all wrapped up into one inconvenient package. That Diamond J stuff and those stud extenders are the exact definition of half assed, the only way to get more rigged up is to make your own kit out of some scrap lumber and coat hangers.
 
your bike doesnt look as bad as i thought it would. With $1200 you'll only be able to get one set of moderate shocks which might not be werth getting anyway. Like yamarider said, you'll wanna get a-arms and shocks to match at the same time so it'll be properly set up.

Go with the pipe and a k&n to let it breathe nice followed with a jet upgrade for no more than $350. Then shop ebay for a nice set of rims, get some tires and that should bring your total to maybe $800. Replace the clutch with the rappy or an aftermarket and you still have $300 left. Maybe even get some style onit from you custome graphix designer. I think someone does that here
 
bassballs...thanks

Mr.yamarider........i completely agree about the spacers as i stated the same thing about stressing the ball joints in my post above, and i guess your right about bending the widening kit..but just so everyone knows , the kits only weight 9-12 pounds ..not 25....i do appreciate the advice! not insulting you advice just correcting you on that one point ,....but point takin about bending them ....i'll still shop around for some wider a-arms ..my warrior is just really "slim" in the front compared to all my buddies i ride with , now granted they all ride 400ex's , but i want the wider stance for better handling we ride really tight and twisting trails , lots of turns , ..hell i dont know i just wanted a wider front end ......thanks for all your help and advice people!
as alot of you guys have been riden alot longer than i have
 
"the only way to get more rigged up is to make your own kit out of some scrap lumber and coat hangers"


lol ^^^^ i did like that thought yamarider....but you forgot the duct tape
 
which jet do i need ?? i only need to change to main jet ...correct?..mods will include pipe and filter and drilled box...i was told to change to a 148-150 main jet ,any idea which one that is on this page...as i dont wanna buy a $50 kit just to use one jet

http://www.sudco.com/mikunijets.html
 
you'll be okay with a 148 or 150. try going to a local dealer or shop. they may sell you a jet seperate.
 
I don't know that I really beleive that entire kit only weighs around 10 pounds. I have one of their shock mount relocation kits laying in the shed and I bet just that alone weighs 5 pounds. Even having another 10 pounds over the front wheels is bad on a warrior though, part of the reason that they feel like such a tank compared to the newer bikes is because they're so front end heavy from the factory. Good for hill climbs and trail riding, bad for handling, jumping, racing.

I've been riding for about 10 years, and for tight trails like you're describing, I would take a narrow, stock width quad over a widened one. I don't know how to explain it, but the width doesn't really play that big of a role in your speed in the woods, at least the way I ride. It's kinda strange but I can actually run faster lap times in tight woods courses on a little 250 honda than I could with my warrior, and even with the 700's yfz-inspired suspension i'm not much faster than my old honda recon in the trails. It seems like speed in woods riding is about 90% based on rider skill, 10% machine.

If you still want to widen it, keep an eye out for used a-arms and shocks. I've seen them for sale on ebay as a set before at about $350 for everything, only $150 more than a DJ kit and including aftermarket shocks.

A set of properly set up shocks will actually help your cornering a lot more than just extra width will, the stock shocks are simply an oil filled pogo stick in comparison to modern stuff. You would be amazed how much of a difference in your handling it makes, but it reduces body roll and it maintains tire contact much better, the stock ones will send you bouncing all over the place, and you can't maintain speed through a corner if your tires aren't in full contact with the ground.

If I were to buy another warrior and set it up for trails it would definitely stay stock width, possibly aftermarket a-arms but stock width or +1 at most. Good mid-level aftermarket shocks (Elka, Race Tech w/o reservoirs approx $500), and send a Banshee rear to Race Tech for a revalve. Then good tires, don't cheap on tires, all the suspesion and width in the world are useless if it won't stick to the ground. I like Razr 2's or Holeshot GNCC's for the front, they stick like stink on ****, and for the warrior i'd go with a less aggressive 21 or 22" rear, probably original Razrs or Holeshot XCRs, unless you hit sticky mud then i'd go with Kenda Klaws. The X-pattern knobby tires are good until you hit mud, then everything except the real aggressive ones don't clean out, they just turn into a big smooth ball of mud spinning and going nowhere.

Go with either stock Yamaha wheels or .190 aluminum aftermarket wheels, the cast wheels like ITP C-series are also pretty tough but the lip of the rim can crack if it takes a heavy hit from a rock, the .190's will just bend and roll the lip which can be fixed.

That's my opinion, at least that's how I would set up my own for woods riding. I put a lot of money and time into my warrior, some of which was worthwhile and some which was a waste to me, so it's an experienced opinion.
 
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