Way too high compression?

Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum

Help Support Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

nukacola

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2013
Messages
263
Reaction score
0
Location
Florida
I'm reading almost 180 psi first time compression testing. I did not warm up the engine like the Clymer manual said, but still. Is that way too high? Clymer manual says 145 max!!

I took out the plug, threaded the thing into the plug hole, killed the switch and ran the starter a few times like it says at full throttle. 3 times it said almost 180.

Does warming the engine up first help for accurate reading or am I fucked!!

Using this meter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVU8JS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Is build-up of carbon deposits the thing? How do you deal with that? I'm scared to even ride it now. HELP!
 
Last edited:
Well first you better hope its a shitty compression tester lol.. It could be valve seats, a stuck oil ring... Might be time for a rebuild! What made you take a compression test in the first place?
 
I wanted to just do a test to check the overall condition of the bike. I got it a little while back and it's something I just wanted to try out. It does have a some ticking, and it's developed weird throttle response (cutting out) off idle sometimes.

I've done the valve cap mod, the carb is perfect.

The tester is highly rated on amazon where I just got it from. It's brand new.
 
If its cutting out I can tell you the carb is not perfect. What's your plug look like?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If it's running good I wouldn't worry about the compression reading. It could be that there is a high comp piston in it, or, there could be lots of carbon built up on the piston's crown.
 
No, it's dry black tip. It's running fine except if I really stab the throttle WOT from idle.

Should I go in it and clean the carbon buildup around the piston?
 
A good fuel additive will help to break the carbon up. May not even have any carbon. May just be the way it is. And, you're carb needs some fine tuning. It shouldn't stall when you stab the throttle, and the plug should be close to the color of a brown paper bag.
 
We took that damn carb apart,(which is only a couple months old by the way) and fine tooth combed the thing about a week ago. Jets are super clean, installed a new fuel filter, put a valve cap over the accel pump, everything. It's somewhat annoying, can't figure it out.

Pat, you don't think I should even worry about the high comp numbers?
 
Just because it is clean, doesn't mean that it is jetted 100%. You need to do some plug chopping (inspecting the color) at idle, half throttle, and full throttle.

If it runs fine (no abnormal noises, smoking, etc...) I would leave it be.
 
I've ordered a few new jets to test. The first I want to try since it's the same basic engine as you Warriors run is a 145. According to my stock carb I should be 120 main. ****'s not cutting it if that's the problem. My only real issue is the cutting out/bogging at stabbing throttle even 3/4.

I'm hoping a bigger jet is the way to go.

Advice is always welcome!

Edit: Took apart the old Mikuni. It has a 120 jet in it. The rebuild kit I got for it which I haven't used yet has a 120. I am not sure what the Zoom Zoom parts carb has in it. I need to get it out and see, but I think a bigger jet might be in order just cause of the K&N? I'm guessing here.

Running 93 octane always, have cycled seafoam once through, and I'm on the second tank full with seafoam again. New gear oil too as if that makes any difference.
 
Last edited:
You really do need to plug chop all 3 circuits to jet it right. It does sound like you are getting to large a charge of air, and that is what is killing the engine. Bigger jet will correct that, yes. You need to see what the needle's clip position is, too. May have to raise the needle to richen the mid range.
 
Back
Top