Twin cyl 500cc Warrior build

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DirtRider, I snapped this for you to show the exhaust with the suspension maxed out, sorry for the crappy cell phone pics
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Here is the new and improved battery box, had to make a loop to clear the chain, not sure if I like it or not but it works and is solid
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And now on to the fuel tank, in the picture it is 17" long, 7" wide, and 7.5" tall. I do not like how it looks at all but it would hold a ton of fuel. I've thought about chopping it down to 12" long, it would stop right with the rear frame rails, look better but it would cut out around a gallon of fuel. What do you guys think?
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check clearance on the chain area and i would cut it shorter thats already like 3 gallons

Damnit, I didnt think about the chain! The damn chain clearance is kicking my ass today. I'm going with the short version, I think it will look alot better. Well I just went out and looked at the chain and it clears with tons of room but I will double check with the suspension maxed tomorrow.

Next issue. The carbs are Keihin CVK 34mm's, from what I have read over at ex500.com they are a PITA to tune when changing the air box or exhaust. Seems like most people move to the Keihin 34mm FCR which I believe are flat slide carbs. I want to get away from the whole vaccumm slides crap, when I rip into the throttle I want **** moving not waiting on vaccumm to build. Anyone have any words of advice with the carbs?
 
Nah, there's no "waiting" for throttle response from CV'S. I roadraced my EX bone stock, noooo problems.

Unless you find a free set, i surely wouldn't worry about flatslides. Somebody in the EX web-circles should be able to get you reeeeal close with the jetting from the kit in one shot.
 
MotoArts, you have given me FAITH! I swear the guys on the EX forum cant answer a question without pouring their feelings out to save a life. Are they hard to tune with Pod filters and modified exhaust? I read somewhere that the slides wont open due to low vaccuum. I have no idea how these carbs work, I mean I get the general idea, cables moves the butterflies, vaccuum opens the slide.
 
No harder than any other carb.
There are two zillion of those bikes w/ jet kits in 'em. And another 3 zillion without that run fine and knock down 55mpg all day long while doing it (efficient carb). I don't think there's a need to throw cash where it's not really needed (on another set of carbs).

The old "yanker" carbs, and their antiquated but functional technology, were used up until the CV's took over in the early '80's. Now they are being replaced by fuel injection.

Ever try to work on, or want to work on, fuel injection?
Me neither. :)

Do your homework before dissecting the CV's. Ask 500 people about them, and you'll likely get only 400 different answers. You'll find half of 'em paid someone to tune theirs and have no clue, but will answer anyways.
Get an average on what goes where, get 'er fired up and functional, then fine tune from there.

:tup:
 
I did quite a bit of reading up on the CV's today. I better understand why the vaccuum slide is sought after and why the flat sides are sought after. The vaccuum in the CV's slowly open the slide when you go WOT meaning that intake air pressure has enough force to suck fuel in, as where the pumper carbs use an accelerater pump which doesnt exactly atomize fuel all that well.

In all it seems that the CV's are better for me as this will be a 'have fun' bike and will get trail rode. The CV has a better/smoother throttle response than pumper styles and get to power quicker due to keeping the slide closed until the motor is ready for more air. I just hope its not a PITA to tune. The dynojet kit has lighter springs which should help out with the slide moving a little faster but still controlled by vaccuum. I'm a little new to jetting but a friend will be helping me jet another bike soon so I think I can relate the 2. Plug chop is always important so I'll need to pick up some spare plugs when the time comes. Thanks for you input on this!
 
Worked on the wiring harness today and bolted all the coil packs in and all the elect's to the back of the box. The run/off/start is all finished now and did the shifter. The Ninja used left and right handed threads on the shifter linkage so i have to pull one of the tie rods off the old shifter and put it on the Warrior shifter, shortened the rod and done. I ran out of wire for the mid and only have about 200 psi of gas left so with the price of that plus the metal for the tank it may be a little while before the tank gets made.
Heres a quick pic of my Blaster that I saved from slow rust filled life. I put some Z400 heal guards on her today:
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Dune, got any pics? I was thinking that I have too many colors. I need some white or black springs. I think it would look much better without the yellow. The white frame really makes everying 'pop'.
 
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