this is why i hate touching my exhaust

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duneracerweston

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ok so i finally got around to swaping the head pip on wall-e last night with quadaddics and come to find out hi is the short one mine was a long one so we go to adjust the mufler to slide up to match found that the forwaqrd mout was broke so i cleaned it up and weldd it back together and continued slid the exhaust foreward till it hit the fender so i shaved the fender to alow it to fit bolted everything up set it on the ground and fired her up and blast its a no go major head leak around the head pipe so it was 2 in the morning mad as hell shoved it back in the trailor went to bead got up this morning going to se if i just didnt get it tight and on the last 1/8th round i was going to give it i busted the stud right off!!!! smooth with the head :argh: ive tryed just about everything cut a slit n the bolt to put a flat head screw drier in it and heated the head and twisted the end of the screwdriver!!!! never done that before ive tryed welding a nut to it but was to nervice about blowing the aluminum os i need your help sorry about the long post
thanks
weston
 
clamp it down with some needle nose vise grips. if they slip tack "one side" with a welder. the vise grips will work as a heatsink and not overheat the aluminum.

if you cannot get the grips on it. weld a nut onto it. and hold the nut with vise grips as a heatsink.
 
The vise grips in the first idea is a no go cause it is broke off "flush as previously stayed I am nervice about the aluminum getting to hot or the weild arking to the head and blowing out the aluminum
 
on mine I had to hace the head ground down a little to get a stud off one time, then was able to have a nut welded on. Now there is 2 washers on my exhaust stud so both sides are even. It works if all else fails. BTW had to pell the head in order to safly grind it down. One thing I was thinking when reading your post, you have a raptor motor right? I know they had a different head pipe, is that why yours and quadatticts are different or were you using a warrior head pipe?
 
If you use a left-hand bit to drill the hole in a broken screw or bolt so you can extract it, the odds are good that the very act of drilling will remove the broken screw without ever needing to use the extractor. Your drill must be running in reverse when you use left-hand bits.
 
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damn man that sucks!!! This happened to my 87 head, it broke flush with the head and i had to get it drilled out nd heli coiled, prob not what u wanted to hear but it worked for me
 
I wouldnt advise using them. If you break that off in the head then your screwed. They as so hard it barley drills with a carbide bit!
 
What about using a drill bit extension? If the drill was further away could it be drilled stright?

ffbad247's suggestion is spot on. Ive used it to remove a broken exhaust stud on my warrior.

One thing I will say about the first video is im pretty sure the easyout needs to be tapped into the broken stud after drilling.

Also sounds like the bolt is seized(steel bolt aluminum head) soak it in bp blaster/wd40 for a while. It might help.
 
Maybe im confused. If the stud came out with the pipe what is it your trying to fix? I was under the impression the stud broke off flush in the head. If thats what happened then possibly its siezed or cross treaded.

if your trying to fix something else then I should go to bed case I must be too tired to read.
 
no ur right when i rulled the blown pipe off the stud came out when i put the new one on i musthave over tightened it but its not cross treaded i had threaded it althe way till it touched the mounting flange sorry for not being specific enough
 
Ok so broke off installing it, not taking it off. I got ya. I doubt you need the wd 40 then. I must have read over that part.
 
dude ur only option i can see is drill. and if it broke from bottoming out its a bitch use left hand bits,go progressively bigger. get it straight by popping engine out or extension. dammit man! when the bolt breaks by force like that its in there!! :(
 
Well there was gap between the header flang and the bolts threads so idt it bottomed out but damn I don't wanna yank tha motor and I tryed drilling it and it didn't drill any it just burnt the bit
 
It burnt the bit because its a hardened blot more than likely a grade 8 and those are really hard, you will need a true carbide or a harder drill bit than the bolt, they do make them because I have had to drill out a grade 8 bolt before. Don't use cheap bits all you will do is dull them, burn them or make it worse and break the bit. It might be cobolt drill bits I am thinking of too, might do some googleing on drill bits and drilling grade 8 bolts.
 
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