She's all outta WACK

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Alright, so safe to say if the bike stalls out while idling, the mixture screw position could be to blame? I'll grab some new jets this week, have a few other things I'm going to take care of while she's apart, steering alignment, possibly a clutch lever swap/adjustment, Clutch grabs really far out and I'm thinking its not good for it to be running that way.

It's getting there, step by step. Once I get my carb issues solved I hope to make progress on some upgrades instead of repairs. The more I dig into the bike the more I realize how little the previous owners did maintenance.
 
I've had the needle seat (what popped out) pop out too. Just put the main jet back in it and screw it down tight, it'll work fine.
 
For idle, your mixture screw and idle screw both come into play. Keep up the work, you'll get it running perfect soon.
 
Mis spoke when I said the main jet was a 135 it was actually a 136 haha either way gotta bump up acouple sizes. Taking the easy way out and have a zoom zoom carb in the mail, hopefully that wil eliminate any future issues wit the carb and associates components. Stopping by to get jets tomorro.
when reinstalling the throttle cable into the new zoom zoom carb the adjustment will be thrown off, when I readjust I check by the play in the throttle lever itself correct?
currently my throttle lever is quite tight and snappy and have grown to really like it, hoping that won't change much but In guessing it's all on how I adjust.
Going to be adjusting my steering as well while she's apart, the manual stats to mark center measure (A) center to center and then (as it says) turn them 180 and measure center to center again (B) and then subtract the 2 to figure out your toe-in. My Q is by turning 180 am I flipping the wheel and putting it on the hub and remeasuring to get B? Alittle confused on how to figure out exactly how to know how much to adjust each wheel especially since both seem to be to slightly angles to the left, hoping something isn't bent out of wack and it can be adjusted out with the tie rods.
 
I bet the jets in the old carb are Dynojet. My old stock carb had them from the PO. He even gave me the rest of the kit. 136 is about the same as a 150 Mikuni IIRC.
 
I just checked the chart and 136 DJ = 127.5 Mikuni which would make yours very lean.
 
Holy wow, any thought as to why the PO would have jetted it to be so lean? I know I have aftermarket exhaust and air filter but idrk if anything else was done that would need to affect the jetting. That's a huge jump to bring it up to a 147.5 or around that range of main jet. Thanks for looking into that btw
 
When adjusting you tie rods, the first thing you need to do is get your handle bars straight. I've heard of guys running ratchet straps from each grip to the rear grab bar to hold their bars straight while they adjust the alignment, I'd recommend doing this. When I did mine, I then made a center point on the front of my bumper in order to reference off of, so both tires were toe in the same amount. (If you don't do this, your quad may have the right toe in amount, but not drive straight in reference to your handlebars). I took a marker and drew two marks on my tires, one in front and one in back, instead of rotating the tire 180 degrees each time. Just measure in between the marks front and rear, then subtract and you'll get your toe measurement. It's way easier if you have someone help you too.
 
So i attempted to buy jets today and the local powersports store (Scotts Powersports,PA 309) (just sayinn) didnt have any of the sizes that would of been worth buying. The parts guy also went on to question my judgement by my asking for new jets and asked if my header pipe is titanium, saying that people that ride yfz450s come in alot asking why their header is glowing and its the nature of the material being titantium. Pretty sure mine is a stock header pipe, and sure not titanium.

image_zpsvkeethdc.jpg


pic from acouple months back, she was a frozen mud clump then. first time riding her in the deep snow, that night was partially from hell, but i think the jager aided to that haha

anyway i ordered up a 147.5 , 150 , 152.5 , and a new 45 pilot.
I think im going to wait till the zoom zoom carb gets here and just rejet that one to a 147.5 and 45 pilot and see how that works to start. Parts guy said try stock first then bump up 147.5 at the most in his opinion

Wouldnt of thought about the ratchet straps, thanks for putting that idea out there warrior1996, sounds easy enough, just have to make sure my bars arent bent before strapping everything straight, been really considering a set of new bars actually and getting a new clutch lever, Alot of those protaper bars got an awesome stance on em from what i saw today, wider and straighter than stock. and since i dumped it over the night of that picture my clutch lever is all bent out like an L and probably out of adjustment. Personal preferrences on bars anyone?
 
I have Renthal Bars and they work great. (looks like you do too?). As for the clutch perch, I just bought a MSR aof clutch perch/lever. $25 and could not be happier with it. If your change out the clucth perch/lever, then you'll need to delete the parking brake, and I would recommend the raptor 350 cable setup. Look at my build thread, got a bunch of pics of the lever and raptor 350 cable setup.
 
Got the zoom zoom carb and got it on the bike tonight, got the new jets as well, I didn't jet the carb yet because I wanted to make sure everything still worked after I got it back together. Started to try but everything on the bottom of the carb was so tight.. And said hell with it for tonight. Gave it acouple passes up an down the street and seemed to run better already with the stock jet sizes. Thanks for all your help, hopefully after I plug chop or 2 I'll know if I'm running right. And keepin em crossed no more header glowing haha
Got a lot of up coming ideas, your build thread got me stoked even more on that clutch/perch warrior1996 and that yfz250 shifter seems like one of the best mods possible for these quads.
 
I know this is getting away from carburetor talk but, Yeah sure looks it! was riding my buddies 400ex over the weekend that had a similar shifter that got me wanting to do this mod sooner than later, I guess I could do my research but would it be to much to ask to hook me up with the part numbers for that msr yz250f shifter you're running and that msr clutch perch/lever? Thats one solid setup for around 50$ Not sure if only certain years are compatible. And does that shifter bolt right up or is it going to need a weld? Was looking into em and some were saying the teeth wore out fast or similar comments to that. Couldn't tell by your picture but kinda looked like yours was welded up warrior1996, correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Thanks man, much appreciated. guna have to make acouple orders tonight I'm thinking! Clutch perch/lever, shifter, cable, and parking break delete plate. Maybe even some handguards to protect that nice new lever haha. Once all those fine upgrades are installed, time for some custom fabrication in the works
 
If you're buying a new cable, do the raptor 350 cable mod. Makes the pull way easier and smoother.
 
Yeah Im definitely going to do the cable mod since I'm going to do the perch/lever. The only motion pro raptor 350 cables on eBay were said to fit an 04-13 year raptor 350, not sure if it even matters that it fits the newer years only? And on Rocky Mountain atv the motion pro cable says it fits the '00 warrior, but there are two types, the standard and the terminator, didn't look into the differences though, just about to order up a shifter now, hyped! Going to hold off alittle on the perch/lever and cable and parking break plate till I figure out more on the specifics and the install of some of it.
 
Just buy a raptor 350 motion pro. Raptor 350's were only made from 04-up, so that's all of them. In Rockymountain's site, just specify your vehicle, in this case any year raptor 350, and they will send you the correct one.
 
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