rear caliper

Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum

Help Support Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

hammy7734

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2014
Messages
431
Reaction score
0
Location
New Smithsville Pennsylvania
ea5007e717361cb2b7ee7879b237983e.jpg


48ce1ff8544317333578c7b3fa796ef0.jpg


the rear caliper mount brake is loose but i cant get out the side shown i know its threaded but i wanna try to fix it if i can cause i dont have the money for a new caliper i cant get out the top mount thing




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
ok so i soaked my caliper in diesel fuel and then i was able to get the pin out but the sleeve thing that is inside the caliper came out with and it broke of the lip on the top and then when i when to put the sleeve back in it. it got screwed up and the pin part that has threads on it is two small to fit in the bracket that mounts to the four wheeler.
 
I am having an issue right now with the rear caliper also. It just will not go on. The actual mounting bracket that is attached to the caliper with one bolt and the rubber piece is tight between my disc and the new pad. It seems like it will put a lot of pressure on the outer pad and the disc. I cant seem to unfreeze them, it seem like it should be able to move to work right. I can see on the blaster that the previous owner had the same problem , the pad is worn out completely on the bottom while the top is almost untouched. like it sat in there crooked.
 
I can't even force the one on with new pads, I probably have to soak mine as well but I don't know how yet. Hopefully penetrating oil helps it. I don't have a parts washer or good area to soak stuff.
 
try putting the outer pad on the inside i had that problem with my fronts and dont forget to compress your piston


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yeah , these are brand new pads, the piston is completely compressed , but there is not enough space to fit the disc between the outer pad and the mounting bracket. I stripped out my allen head bolt and the head is down in the recess. So does that bolt actually have to come out or can I soak it and force it with channel locks or a C clamp? I have a blaster with the same thing happening, only I'm not yet trying to install the new pads. The old pads , which aren't very old, are all deformed and crooked because this caliper had been forced on somehow, probably crumbling the pad and making it lean. I'm not sure what went on but I know it ruined the pads and it isn't right.
 
I have them soaking in diesel fuel right now. Do all of them commonly freeze up?
 
I had figured the calipers had to move like any other caliper, but I wasn't sure. You never know what new design is coming out. Thanks for clearing that up. By the way how did your caliper trouble end up? Mine are still soaking, on the second day.
 
i ended up buying a cheap one off ebay
dd32541176403addf8f5e37ccca3d9e3.jpg
b3f044ba80b3a596d445e093c06a13a0.jpg


that collar is suposed to stay in the caliper but it broke the lip off the caliper


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
After about three days the blaster caliper unfroze, but the warrior caliper is still frozen solid. That diesel seems to have absorbed into the rubber parts making it bigger and looser. There has to be a way to improve that design if it hasn't already happened.
 
Can the rubber parts be purchased alone? I didn't think diesel would hurt the rubber. I haven't worked much on diesel engines but do know that gasoline engines have rubber fuel lines and I would think gasoline is more of a solvent than diesel. Then again just like steel there are different rubber compounds as well.
 
Back
Top