Raptor Needles, and the joy of carb varnish

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griff

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I pulled my Raptors out of there spot and pulled them into my garage to prep them for one more good ride before the weather goes to ****.

My Rap wouldnt start, turns over and all, but no go. After fiddling with it for about 10 mins, I figured something else was likely wrong. Went through all the motions, and figured no fuel.

Pulled the carb, and sure enough, the float valve was so gummed up, it was frozen in place. Eventually got it loose with carb cleaner and kerosense, and there was some UGLY **** in there. I've never seen gas go to **** that fast before. Right now the whole carb is mostly apart, and swimming in a bowl of cleaner.

Seemed to be a combo of dirt and varnish. Besides the lousy Ca fuel I have to deal with, it seems I'll need to install auxiliary fuel filters on both the Raps'. Yippee.


On to the needles....

Previous Raptor 350 carbs I've taken apart had adjustable needles, oddly enough, my '06 does not.

Anyone else with a Rap 350 with static needles (no extra clips for adjustment)? Or did you have 3-way adjustable?
 
The newer models from what I've read and found is that they have the non adjustment needle in them.
At the dealership we tell everybody and every tank of gas run stabilizer or sea foam to help the gas from going to **** so fast and varnishing the carbs. It's amazing how crappy the fuel is.
 
On to the needles....

Previous Raptor 350 carbs I've taken apart had adjustable needles, oddly enough, my '06 does not.

Anyone else with a Rap 350 with static needles (no extra clips for adjustment)? Or did you have 3-way adjustable?

They went to that style of needle because of the California EPA restirictions.... that way you can't mess with the factory tuning and create more "harmful" emissions. I've seen alot of late model bikes that come from the factory like that. Thank the tree huggers for that one....bastards.
On a more positive note, you could just pick up a dynojet or GYTR needle. They are fully adjustable and available at most dealers.
 
The newer models from what I've read and found is that they have the non adjustment needle in them.
At the dealership we tell everybody and every tank of gas run stabilizer or sea foam to help the gas from going to **** so fast and varnishing the carbs. It's amazing how crappy the fuel is.

Thanks Jason. I figured Ca emissions would eventually catch up with those carbs, looks like its happened. I went ahead and drilled out the brass plug and adjusted the a/f screw so its not so damned lean.

Its sad that gas is so bad that you guys have to tell people to run additives so it stays good. Oh well, I'm just gonna start adding a little Sta-bil, and a tbl-spoon of Marvel, that'll do the trick. Kinda funny, thats exactly what I used to have to do with my old '81 CB750... those old Keihin's got gummed up so easily.
 
They went to that style of needle because of the California EPA restirictions.... that way you can't mess with the factory tuning and create more "harmful" emissions. I've seen alot of late model bikes that come from the factory like that. Thank the tree huggers for that one....bastards.
On a more positive note, you could just pick up a dynojet or GYTR needle. They are fully adjustable and available at most dealers.

Yeah, I know it well. Its not the Ca EPA though, its CARB (California Air Resource Board). Royal pains in the ass....

I'll dig up a needle somewhere, I'm pretty sure my friend makes a needle that will work, if not he can just make one for me. The taper for these Mikuni CV's isnt hard to figure out. Damn thing looks identical to the stock needles that came with my Bandit 1200 carbs, in fact the slide & spring assembly is identical.
 
I had the same problem with a stuck float needle and no gas, I think its from this new GAS with alcohol, can't you just cut another grove on the needle with a small file or blade their only made out of aluminum
 
...can't you just cut another grove on the needle with a small file or blade their only made out of aluminum

Not really, you need a (CNC) Swiss Lathe to do it properly.

There'd be no sense in doing that anyways since, all you'd have to do is shim the stock needle to raise it. I may shim it just to see if the OEM taper is worth a ****. Its a common trick on many motorcycles, and can work very well.

But I'm not gonna bother with any of that until I'm ready to upgrade the exhaust and airbox.
 
Hey guys, if you want a decent fuel-filter for your Raptor/Warrior, you can pick up an inline fuel filter for a Yamaha Rhino. Its about the right size, and tucks in decently (at least on my Raptor).

About $5 and any Yamaha place.

I know you can use any decent inline filter (though I'm not a fan of the brass-element ones at all), the Rhino one is a good fit, reasonably sturdy, and has a paper element.
 
I had to put a filter in from autozone. Now get this where the gas comes out of the tank at the lever where "ON" "OFF" "RES". That is clogged up and i think my carb is close, because when you stab the throttle it will spit, sputter and die in rare casese
 
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