non-sparking '99 warrior

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mike75925

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ok, it ran when i bought it, though it had to be pull started. it was running an '87 rotor w/'99 stator. the main power lead did not have a fuse and was twisted together. same with the key switch. in fixing those problems, i cannot get the pos to spark. i swapped in the '87 stator (minus a pickup) and still using the '99 cdi. i have gotten 2 more cdis and still nothing. mine did not have the park brake apparently, but the clutch switch is nullified. the forward/reverse switch has also been nullified. in wiring up the stator i crossed the p/u wires. that has been corrected but i still only get .3Vdc at the ign. coil. source is within tolerance. the last cdi, i got from a friend who has a whole spare 350. if i have to i will see about testing my cdis on his and possibly buying his stator. any ideas in the mean time?
 
go through all the grounds. follow the little wire off of the negative battery cable, theres a quick connector. check that. test the ignition coil.
 
ok, so i put the clip for the source on the the wires for the p/u and vice versa. (let the beat down commence) i get spark now, but only when letting off the starter button. so i bump it through trying to get it to start and it seems to be firing too early. it tries to spin the motor backward. the thing is, the sweep on the '87 is way shorter than the one on the '99. seems it would be advanced too much, if anything. i would have replaced the rotor with the '99 i have, but the '87 does not want to come off. i bent the screw on my harmonic puller. i was using a break-over bar with a 2' pipe. normally i use my impact but my comp. is only going up to 75psi. i have thought of lenthening my plug wire to increase dwell time. i would rather it be right though. thanks for the replies!
 
swapped the cdi, and it ran great. it smoked like a dragon, so i shut it down to check the oil. oil was over filled, so it should smoke a bit. something happened and now it has spark but will not fire. i figured the key may have sheared, but there was no significant back-pop or unwarranted dying. when it did run, it ran high idled. the mix and idle set didn't help. it is getting gas. i guess i will check comp again. my lash was checked when i didn't have spark.
 
1998yamahawarrior said:
go through all the grounds. follow the little wire off of the negative battery cable, theres a quick connector. check that.

now i definitely say check that. last year i had a starting issue and a that little ground was all it was, but check all grounds.
 
as to the grounds, on the fiche, there is one coupled to the main ground strap. where does this one connect? the harness ground, which is right next to the main power lead, is bullet connectored to a crimp fork and on to the negative post. also on the fiche are some extra wires. i haven't a clue where they go. my grounds are good, i get continuity from anywhere to anywhere (motor~frame/frame~motor and anywhere in between). ok there is the main ground to the engine, there is the harness ground which leads into the ign. coil ground, the bar switch and key switch, right? i have one more cdi to try since getting fire. my battery started acting funny, hopefully it isn't bad now. it is maybe 2 months old, and walmart doesn't warranty them anymore!
 
walmart should warranty it for 6 months, at least thats what the walmarts by me advertise for the small batterys. ill keep thinkin and get back to ya as im half asleep right now.
 
ok, it pull started. i checked the stator, @ idle it is charging @13.74V. so stator is good. when it died, it cranked right up, which leads me to believe that either battery is going bad or the regulator is messing up. it runs great when running so comp shouldn't be an issue, though i will do a comp check next time i shut it down. when trying to crank it, it sounded like the one-way bearing for the starter was going out.
 
man, this seems a lifetime ago. and it is still sitting where i left it. i guess i need to re ohm test, and appropriate funds to get this virago going.
 
ok, i have spark, but the rotor will not come off. i bought three grade 8 bolts to use with my harmonic puller. my impact gun has less torque than my cheater bar'd breakover. this is hella stuck. any ideas besides getting a better impact gun? the last time i tried, the crank bolt got bent.
 
nevermind, this beasty ran before in the same configuration. i disconnected the park brake jumper, smoked out the smaller ground lead. i cleaned the battery's terminals, the gound strap at the engine, the solenoid ends. cranked right up. the ends corrode quick on these.
 
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