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green_optimus

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Castle Rock Washington
Hey guys.. new to the board and some what new to yamahas.

Picked up a 99 warrior for my wife to learn on till I rebuild my Z400..

Its in pretty good shape for being neglected and left outside..only mod it has is a white bros slip on. The parking break sensor was giving me problems causing it to cut out so I pulled the plug under the hood..

Riding it it around I noticed right away that at an idle in neutral or even riding it around if I give it full WOT it cuts out and will die but if I ease up it will rev pretty good..

Done some digging around on the fourms and on the bike itself.. the oil filter is Brown/ black and full of goo.. jets are 42.5 and 145 witch I take are stock and the plug is ill black and wet..

Wanna know if I'm headed in the right direction.
Clean rebuild carb
Move jets to 45 and 147.5
Uni filter

Thanks Dan
 
Sounds like your headed in the right direction to start. Id also, if your getting the jets locally see if they have a 150, some have needed to go just a step higher. For those mods usually the 147.5 or 150 seems to be just about right. And welcome to the board!!
 
I plan on keeping the lid on the air box and from what I gather with the lid on its common to run a 147.5?.. after the Z is rebuild and the wife moves up to it and my daughter will take on the warrior..

Is it common for it to fall on its face like that with WOT but will rev if I ease into it?

I used to work on 2 strokes all the time but got out of the game years ago.. kinda getting a feel for it again..
 
make sure the accelerator pump rod is moving freely if that is stuck that's most likely the reason it falls flat when stabbing the throttle they tend to get stuck a little trick to help with it is change out the spring with one from a bic clicker pen there should be a how too somewhere on it with pics
 
Thanks for the link yamahauler! Like stated before I'm getting back in the game after a 10 year absence and I know each machine is a lil diff from the rest but the basics are the same..

I'll order up a new filter jets and do the spring mod and I'll keep posted with results..
 
The cone for the air filter has a ton of rust on it and I tossed it out with the foam filter that was falling apart when I took it out.. am I gonna need it for the uni or does it come with an adapter for the air box?
 
well I put a new filter and rejetted it to a 50 and a 147.5 also did the Bic spring and valve cap mod.. I've noticed it's got a lot more get up and go but even at an idle when I still Stab it it cuts out and will die if I don't let off the throttle.. if I touch the throttle and then stab it it revs good but that bottom end is still lagging a little bit..

Gonna try a new fuel line to eliminate the filter as a possibility
 
After running it for a bit at an idle I noticed it was running rich.. so I decided to put the stock pilot jet back in and check the spark plug.. plug was black but not wet but still same problem when I stab the throttle it will die! But with just barely touching the throttle and then stabbing it it will rev with no issue..

Will the air fuel screw have anything to do with it?

Starting to get frustrated..
 
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should be 2 turns out on the air/fuel screw and sometimes you may need to go an extra 1/4 turn but 2 is stock setting
did you make sure the float height is set right?
and maybe pull the petcock and clean it good they tend to get gummed up inside and may hinder flow from tank
 
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Well I turned the air fuel 2.5 turns out and it's still falling flat when i stab the throttle..

I'm sick of messing with it.. if anybody else has any info it would sure help.. half tempted to just get another carb..
 
If your using a btm carb, good luck. I've never seen one that will go from dead idle to wot and not die. These are designed as low rpm and torque motors. Not brassy race motors.
 
I understand that but it shouldn't die like that.. I'm not intending for it to be.. but everyone stabs the throttle while on trails getting over logs or pot holes lifting the front end making it easier.. if logged many hours on a warrior years back and it would rev from idle to WOT with no problem..

Iv noticed the needle doesn't come all/most the way out.. think that might be a problem?

Think I'll just order a zzp
 
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Clymer manual says Engine Idle speed should be between - 1,450 - 1,550 rpm's
I have a digital Tach on mine
 
Well I turned the air fuel 2.5 turns out and it's still falling flat when i stab the throttle..

I'm sick of messing with it.. if anybody else has any info it would sure help.. half tempted to just get another carb..


Just buy a brand new Zoom Zoom carb on e-bay for $68.00 shipped and you will be very happy.

I had all kinds of problems with my stock carb and as a last resort I bought a Zoom Zoom carb and my Warrior never ran as good as it does now! :tup:
 
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