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warrior304

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Let me first start by saying hello to everyone, this is an awesome website. Ok, on to the fun stuff.....I recently bought a 2000 warrior with the following mods....White Bros E series exhaust, Bored .30 over(not sure), jetted carb(not sure), new battery, new razr's all the way around, itp rear rims(wider offset), K+N filter with outer wears, air box modded four 1 inch holes drilled in it, new clutch. Well I got it for a good deal, but I knew it needed some stuff. I replaced the a-arm bushings and went over the whole quad adjusting what was out. It was running a little rough so i messed with the idle screw and air/fuel screw and got it running better. It was bogging when i would tap the gas from idle. Also changed the oil. Well after getting it right I rode a few times and now it seems to be blowing some smoke at cold start up, and if i let it sit wtih the gas valve on it leaves a puddle of fuel. Also a problem with the trans, it won't go into 4th, 5th, or 6th. 1st, 2nd, 3rd, Reverse and Nuetral work fine. The motor also sounds loud as far as internals...i need to compare to another warrior. Well sorry for the long post, but I am just looking for some starting points or advice. Thanks in advance....
 
The puddle of fuel is because of an issue with your floats. Either the height is set wrong, the valve is sticking, dirty, or needs replaced.

What color is the smoke at start up? Blue tint like oil burning? My guess would be the valve seals are getting a little worn, mine did this as well as many others i've seen. It won't hurt anything, keep an eye on it for if it starts smoking after the engine is warmed up, then you should probably do something about it.

The problem with your trans sounds like it could be a bent shift fork, but without splitting the cases and looking things over, there's no way to say for sure.

Hope that helps, and i'm sure somebody else will chime in with some more ideas for you to check out. Good luck and welcome to the forum.
 
Yea, I am gonna split it this weekend and take a look. It also has a 42t rear sprocket, and 1st gear is really quick. Should I change sprockets? I mainly trail ride and it just seems to go thru first quickly. Also it seems the clutch is slipping, is there any type oil that would do this? I used valvoline atv 10w 40....I am just looking to learn what I can and try and get quicker in the woods. Thanks
 
First gear is a stump pulling gear on warriors, I usually started out in second on mine and I had mine geared higher than stock.

The clutch design is a little flawed on the warriors, in that it will begin to slip before it is actually worn out. The problem is there is insufficient travel in the pressure plate after the friction plates wear to about half life. The cheap solution to get it working again is to add an additional steel plate in the clutch stack, this will take up some space and get pressure back on the plates again. With a worn one, you could probably even get 2 steels in.

It's common to add an extra steel plate in the stack when the clutch is replaced with a new one, the clutch lasts twice as long that way and the extra plate has no ill effects.

When my clutch started to slip because of the limited pressure plate travel, it seemed to do it when I switched from Silkolene to Valvoline ATV like you're using. I think it's just a little slicker on the clutch than a higher quality oil, and can be the straw that breaks the camel's back when the clutch is already worn. I've used the Valvoline ATV oil in the warrior after the clutch replacement, and other quads since then, and haven't had the same effect, otherwise i'd think differently about it. Still, just because that proves Valvoline is a lesser quality oil, I have stopped using it in my bike and raptor. All that I run anymore is Maxima or Silkolene, both are priced pretty decent and seem to be a very good quality oil over the cheaper ones i've tried.
 
thanks YamaRider i appreciate the answers and advice. So if i add a steel plate to my clutch now would I get anything out of it, and what do I use? What clutch is a good buy? It just started slipping and only when I really get on it. Also reading about the float all you do to adjust is "bend" it to allow more or less fuel in?
 
All you need to do is add an additional stock or aftermarket steel plate in the clutch pack, somewhere in the middle. Doesn't really matter where in the stack as long as it's not on the end. You could even use an old used plate as long as it's in ok condition, it just can't be warped or anything like that. If you want, I can check and see if I still have some old ones laying around, if I do I'd send them to you for whatever the shipping might cost. You would probably get another year of use out of the clutch by adding a couple plates, adding the plates will allow the rest of the friction material to get used.

Most of the aftermarket clutches are good, the stock clutches are good, just stay away from the extremely cheap clutches like Tusk and any no-name one that might pop up on ebay. I put an EBC in mine years ago and it worked great, i've sold the warrior to a buddy since then, and the clutch still seems to be holding up which surprises me because he's hard on clutches, I think he destroys a clutch on his sv650 at least once a year.

The float height adjustment is basically bending the tab. I don't know what the specs are supposed to be for factory settings, but a service manual will detail this, and you might be able to turn up something just searching old posts.

If you don't have a service manual yet let me know, I can send you a link to download one.
 
thanks again YamaRider...we are actually doing a clutch on my buddys warrior tomorrow, so i will check his plates out and see if there is a good plate left. I will let you know, and thanks so much for the offer, I really do appreciate it. I do have a copy of the manual on my computer, but thanks again. We are gonna split the case tomorrow and get a good look at everything, maybe do a little port and polishing. I also have a 1998 Silverado K1500 i see you have a 98 GMC...awesome trucks.
 
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