My little rebuild (finally)

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megafandrew

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Hey everyone Im doing a little bit of rebuilding/new parts for my 01' yamaha warrior and figured I could take some pictures along the way and make a small build up thread. While not a crazy $$ project or extremely powerful build, its non the less fun and my first build. I tore down all the plastic and Im working at removing the topend of the motor. My first upgrade to the motor will be my .50 over 10:25:1 wiesco piston kit that is ready for install. Besides that it also has a ProFlow Designs air filter aluminum intake adapter and k&n air filter with modded air box. I did have a supertrapp ids2 but its rusty and missing some bolts so I'm thinking of throwing on a whole new exhaust system. Also the carb is brand new oem and stage 2 dynojetted. I was going to paint the frame but too much trouble, and I want to ride lol ;D Some other plans for it while in the rebuild stage are as follows just a rough list right now:
-full new exhaust system (more then likely we will see)
-piston kit (right now going in)
-cam/camshaft upgrade?
-cdi upgrade?
-progressive front suspension
-new rear shock
-+2 a-arms
-pro-taper handle bars and grips

figure I might as well ust fix it up a bit and ride it for another year or 2 until either I sell it or ust cant find the place to store it

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actually I would be interested dead is there a thread on the forum here for them? Also can you see my pictures posted? I cant view them I used photobucket, clicked on the image I wanted and right clicked/properties and copied the url into the img/img thing
 
Shocks posted in the classified section. No pics for me. In photobucket there should be a line list below each picture with different codes. Find the
 
Let me stop you on a couple of those ideas. No offense to your ideas, but Progressive shocks really suck for the money, they perform more like a stock replacement than an aftermarket upgrade. I wouldn't go any cheaper than Works, though personally I wasn't satisfied with those either.

The other thing is the CDI upgrade. Unless you go all out and get a programmable Dynatek CDI, just leave the stock one in there. The other aftermarket "rev boxes" are nothing but trouble. They cause starting issues, they're known for burning out sometimes even within days or weeks, and they offer no performance advantage over stock. Their claim to raise the rev limiter 1000 rpm is the biggest line of **** of all, as there is not a stock rev limiter on the warrior.

Third, I wish somebody would have been able to warn me, but DO NOT buy a-arms from Burgard Cycle. That was a big nightmare for me that ended up in a loss of about $550 and back with the stock a-arms. Wicked and ASR a-arms are great quality for the money and they understand the concept of customer service. Burgard beleives that once you paid them, you no longer matter. And if you ride hard and in rocky terrain, i'd recommend investing in some heavy duty 12mm tie rods and ends at the same time, before you end up stuck in the middle of nowhere with busted pieces and an unridable machine. Don't buy tusk, don't buy honda style, just get the yamaha style with 12mm threads instead of the stock 10mm, you'll never break one and they won't wear out like cheap ones.
 
I fixed your pics as well. You did everything correctly, except for some reason photobucket adds a question mark, T, and a random number after the .jpg. When you post more pics, if you just delete everything behind the .jpg you shouldn't have any trouble.
 
YamaRider said:
I fixed your pics as well. You did everything correctly, except for some reason photobucket adds a question mark, T, and a random number after the .jpg. When you post more pics, if you just delete everything behind the .jpg you shouldn't have any trouble.

Hey actually thanks for the tips about the cdi and shocks etc. Your basically saving me my hard earned $$ and thanks for fixing up my pics. I followed the instructional sticky exactly pretty much lol. Also, I can say I appreciate your advice alot as Ive admired your warrior many a times! :) more will be coming guys although Im on my work shift right now (6 more 12 hour days) so little time right now to continue. Scratch the cdi, buy some good used shocks perhaps, what do you think about a hotcams upgrade? Worth my money?
 
I'm not a big fan of Hotcams. The thing i don't like about them is that they allow use of the stock springs by making the ramp and lift of the cam more mild than the others, and push the stock springs to the limits at the same time. It'll make it easier to float the valves, and make it more likely to break a spring and make a mess out of your top end. I would rather spend the extra money to get something a little better like one from webcams or megacycle that will give you better gains and still be more reliable. I've found that the old saying is very true. If you buy cheap, you buy twice.
 
I like that "if you buy cheap, you buy twice" boy can I attest to that with a car I bought last summer lol. Anyways I had my eyes on the asr arms, Im just waiting for the currency to adjust (just today canadian dollar is up to 1.16 to every american 1) which is finally good for me again to buy some stuff from across the border. Dead Im pretty sure Im gonna grab those shocks from you although I way arounnd 200lbs. and Im about 6ft. so I might need them regassed? Also I am on days off so check in for some pics and I will be getting that piston in the motor as I have 7 days off starting tommorow (although might head out of town for a day/night here pretty quick) Im wondering if I should just throw my supertrapp exhaust back on and mabey just repaint the pipe part of it that turned to a somewhat orange color (Ill grab a pic of the exhaust) Also do those powerbomb headers do anything worthwhiile? and are these arms any good? fullflight? http://cgi.ebay.ca/RAPTOR-350-WARRIOR-350-2-A-ARMS-3-COLORS-SALE-FFR_W0QQitemZ370194325204QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_ATV_Parts_Accessories?hash=item370194325204&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1215|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A50
 
Fullflight was a close send for me.......they don't offer the small skid area under the shock mount like ASR does but all in all they look great and I'm sure will work just fine.

Shock sale might be pending.......but whom ever comes up with the money first, they are the new proud owner or a set of WORKS.
 
^ lets not steal this thread. there is a post in the classifieds section. Asking $200 O.B.O.
 
here's a few pics of the ids'2 race series (no spark or silencer for this pipe and it is LOUD with actually a good performance increase, I reallyy enjoy supertrapps performance/quality) anyways I dont know how it got this orange coloring/rust but it rubs off somewhat easily should I just sand it down, respray it with high temp paint and keep the pipe or just get a new pipe?

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If you like supertrapps, keep it. Not everybody likes disc type exhausts like that. I was never a fan of them on the quads, but I just got an old school (early 90's) Supertrapp on my dual sport bike, and it's not bad for an old pipe. Just repack it and clean it up and throw a little polish on there, it'll look like new and perform like new.

(Hint: that orange buildup is probably clay mud that baked on, i had it on my stock pipe and a good soaking in simple green and a few cycles of scrubbing and rinsing got it off for me)
 
YamaRider said:
If you like supertrapps, keep it. Not everybody likes disc type exhausts like that. I was never a fan of them on the quads, but I just got an old school (early 90's) Supertrapp on my dual sport bike, and it's not bad for an old pipe. Just repack it and clean it up and throw a little polish on there, it'll look like new and perform like new.

(Hint: that orange buildup is probably clay mud that baked on, i had it on my stock pipe and a good soaking in simple green and a few cycles of scrubbing and rinsing got it off for me)

Interesting Yama I will try the simple green cleaner and buy some scotch pads to scrub at it, mabey blast it with my dad's pressure washer lol. I do like the pipe its not bad and has a good sound to it, plus if I can save myself 3/400 bucks I would be happy with that as this is going to be built for a fun trail bike. I never thought of that but it could be that baked on clay you speak of. If I put on the 10:25:1 piston kit with the .50 over I may just leave the motor at that and just get a mew seal/gasket set. As without a stroker kit like yours I know it can't be too much faster/powerful, the header is rusty do you think I should just buy a black oem one for cheap off ebay so it looks good once the pipe is clean again? or do those fmf powerbomb highflow header pipe actually give you a bit better flow? Im more concerned now with just getting the suspension to how I like it and the wide a-arms on there (back tires are already wide offset as they are yfz450 wheels so they should match up well with +2 a-arms.) Also Yama what is a good shock to look into for the back I am a 200lb rider (not overweight just big ;) lol) I find the stock oem one sags way to much and bottoms out easily on me. same with the front actually and how do you guys paint your frames? I know I need to sand/prep which is no problem but what ways do you paint the frames? |Is that a spray can job or?
 
Lots of questions there, hopefully i won't miss any.

If your header is rusty, you can just clean it up with a wire brush and paint it with some good quality high temp paint, I used 1200 degree silver engine paint and it worked fine for me. It chipped a little right at the head where it's the hottest, but it was cheap and looked a lot better than mud and rust.

Aftermarket headers really aren't worth the money on a warrior unless you're going for looks. The stock one is actually the same diameter pipe as the aftermarket ones, and is bent just as smoothly. The only place where there is any power loss vs an aftermarket one is at the weld where the flange is inside the pipe, you can grind most of that down with a dremel. Just don't take it all off, you could possibly make it too weak.


I'm also around 200# and I thought the stock shock was pretty stiff and harsh, I might have bottomed mine out twice and it was bad landings on the motocross track. I did stiffen up the spring preload pretty good though to keep it from sagging in the back.

I went to an 01 raptor 660 shock on the rear for a while but I didn't like it because it made the back end sit too high for my comfort and the more radical swingarm angle made it more difficult to keep the chain tensioned properly.

I snagged a used aftermarket banshee rear shock on ebay for $75 and that was the winning ticket for me. The ride height was right and it was valved plush enough that it wouldn't buck and bounce at high speeds through rough terrain, and still had good bottom-out resistance. That might not help you much, I took a chance and got luck with that one.

If you haven't tried stiffening the preload on the stock shock you might want to give that a try first, it could work good enough for you if you get it adjusted right.

As for painting the frame, you have a few options. The more you spend, the stronger it will be and the longer it will last. Of course any of these will have to begin with some prep work to get it smoothed out.

- The cheapest option is to rattle can the bitch. The paint will tend to chip off and rub off much easier, but at the low cost of spray paint, that's not a big deal as long as you don't mind touching up the chips and other damage.

- The middle option would be to have it professionally painted, or paint it yourself with pro-quality auto paints if you have the equipment to do it. The paint will be more durable, but it's still going to rub off and chip some, as any paint will.

- The most durable, but likely the most expensive option is to get it powder coated. This bakes on a hard shell over the frame which you will have to try really hard to chip or rub off. Most of the time if powder coat gets badly damaged, either it wasn't done properly or you did something horribly wrong like bend the frame in half.


If it was me, and just doing a quick and dirty rebuild to get the machine looking better on a budget, I would go with the rattle can method and just touch it up from time to time. If you choose to go with the original color paint it'll be even easier to keep it looking good, and there will be less prep work involved as well.

If you're going to rattle can it, make sure you choose a good quality paint (not the walmart 94 cent special) and do a test sample first in an inconspicuous area of the frame. Make sure it dries properly, doesn't discolor when touched, and doesn't flake off too easily. Silver paints especially like to change colors because the metallic flake in the paint will rub right off the surface. Also use caution with automotive spray paints like DupliColor. They look great but aren't as durable as a standard Krylon or Rustoleum type paint. Clearcoating it would help with the durability.

Hope that helps, did I miss anything? (That should keep you busy for a while anyways)
 
Thanks for the reading Yamarider, Im going to town right now to go pick up a wire wheel for my grinder and a few other things here and there to get the exhaust cleaned up! By this afternoon I should have the piston in I would think and bolt it back up for now to test her out. I iwll take some pics as well. Ill soon be ordering my +2 arms and if I can get the money together I probally will take those work shocks off dead, Im also going to play around with that preload on the rear today, I think that may be the problem is that its set to low from the previous owner who Im thinking was a bit lighter then me. :) Thanks yamarider again for this huge post above it helps out alot and I appreciate your responses and helping me out here! (your name is Dave isn't it? just so I dont have to call you yamarider lol)
 
Ok thanks Greg btw the wire brush is working well I am cleaning it rightnow in the garage with a few shots of simple green should be clean by tonight! EDIT: Also got the top half of the head off so piston/sleeve will go in tommorow sometime, its 9:40 pm and I have a movie to watch lol :) Not sure if Ill get it all set in there and back together though as I am probally headed out of town on Sunday for the big city to do some project car shopping lol.
 
i havent seen any of the fullflight yet, but i just got the wicked products +3s great product powdercoated any color for right at 425 shipped took about a week to get here and they even had to make them!!... best aftermarket ones i have seen in a while!!...STAY AWAY FROM BURGARD! THEY ARE JUNK AND DONT FIT... AND IT TOOK THEM 2 MONTHS TO GET THE SET TO ME!!!
 
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