I can't believe this bike will not start

Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum

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jmg1

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First off guys, I'm new to the forum. I'm having problems with a 2004 warrior. I'm getting gas, air, compression, and spark, but the bike still will not start. I have replaced the rings, timing chain, and I have checked the woodrift key to the flywheel to make sure it is not sheared or worn. The bike did have some cdi wiring issues, basically wiring harness was shorted out and fused together. I spliced in new wiring, cdi appears to be operational. I called Ricky's performance stators to get some specs to check the stator and pick up coil. The coil tested good to his specs, however his ohm resistance is not the same spec posted in the Clymer manual. Basically tech support at Ricky's told me generally when you have spark your ignition system is working properly. This is where I'm confused I know the bike is getting gas and air and I know it has good compression and I have grounded the spark plug while in the boot to the head and watched a nice crisp sharp blue spark come out of the plug. Common sense mechanics is if you have gas, air, compression and spark the engine should run. It must be something electrical? I just do not know what to check???? The battery has been replaced. The spark plug and gas are new. The fuse has been replaced as a procaution. The stator from green white to red white has 500 ohms resistance. The coil to the power wire to the plug in is metering 17.8 ohms resistance. I realize this according to the Clymer manual is out of spec, but after referring to a repair manager at a dealership and a coil expert they tell me it is not uncommon for Clymer to have their electrical checking specs off. Please help guys... tell me I'm overlooking something basic, electrical related. My biggest fear is I will buy every electrical component and the bike still won't run and it will be very costly. Help Please!!!
 
Welcome to the forum.

I think it would have to be a timing issue with everything else being in check as it is. Just because you have spark doesn't necessarily mean it's making that spark at the right time. I can't think of any other possible reason for it not running.

Does it try to fire at all? Flooding and fouling the plug?
 
The bike does flood after excessive cranking on the starter. I have checked the timing and the woodrift key in the flywheel. I will check it again when I get home but I am fairly sure the timing is right. I agree that is exactly what it sounds like to me. But when it was checked it was dead on
 
sounds to me like the timing chain is off (cam timing), not flywheel timing.. Or it could maybe be a bad pickup coil on the stator. Have you ohmed both of them out on the stator?
The spark plug coil sounds ok as far as ohms go. I would make sure and spec out the primary side and secondary side of the coil but as long as there close to spec it will work just fine.
You got good compression so the valves are adjusted correctly.
 
don't sit and crank on the starter for long periods of time as you'll burn the starter out.
 
I think the timing makes sense. I thought I would check to see the key in the flywheel was sheared causing the fly wheel to move and be out of time. I replaced the timing chain and the piston rings a week ago. I had the bike running at one point it took for hell and ever to get it to start but it finally did. It ran bad I checked the timing and I was off a tooth. I reset and then found the the CDI wiring all firied so I re-wired the bike and since on fire what so ever. It does spark and have good compression and it will flood so I know it is getting gas. I checked the stator and got 500 ohms the pickup coil I think was .5 ohms. I don't know who is right the guy at Ricky said 475-500 ohms is normal he also said the cylmer maunal is usally wrong with thier testing values cylmer was far lower like around 300 ohms. So I have no idea who is right? I think JasonP had a similar problem that turned out to be the stator. I just hate to buy a stator cause you can't return the part after you buy it.
 
on this site there is a true yamaha manual that you can download. I sugest you do that. At the electrical pages in there they have a flow chart of what to check first and verious steps to follow and check, giving you specs as well. If something is out of spec replace it.
 
The problem I have is that the electrical components changed in 2002 The manual on here is for an earlier year. I have no idea if the values have changed. Does anyone have a shop manual for a 2002 or newer that has these values? I agree something has to be bad electrical I just don't think I have good values. I need known good values to check the coil, stator, and ignition coil.
 
that values should stay the same from my understanding. I used them for my 98. I believe just the plug ends changed. From what I've read is that yamaha has changed stator plugs and cdi's connectors 3 times.
 
on th online manual is that correct for the raptor350 for the oms to be at 459-561?? that seem really high compared to the warrior which is at like 170- 200??? i got sold a worrior stator instead of a raptor 350 stator and it read 186.3 which is within spec of the pick up coil but now wheres near the raptor and im still not getting spark... and with the stator being elecctrical i cannot return it.. i spent 130 bux on the ******* thing and i have no use for it now
 
they are... the stator for the raptor and the warrior has the same part number right from yamaha and they are the same # on the parts unlimited and rickystator.com
 
Try pouring like a capful of oil down the sparkplug hole. From you cranking the starter and flooding the cylinder with gas you may have washed the walls out. Even with new rings installed if the cylinder walls are washed out it will not get good compression
 
hey before that maybe try to loosen the valve they might just be a hair tight
 
Try pouring like a capful of oil down the sparkplug hole. From you cranking the starter and flooding the cylinder with gas you may have washed the walls out. Even with new rings installed if the cylinder walls are washed out it will not get good compression

Not true and on top of that you will bend a rod if you put to much oil on top of the piston. You will not wash the cylinder walls out with gas and cause the engine not to start, plus when you start turning the engine over oil is getting sprayed off of the con rod bearing up on the cylinder wall. It really doesn't take that long for the rings to seat into the cylinder and the fact that you don't loose all that much compression or will not unless you did something seriously wrong when installing the piston.
 
hey before that maybe try to loosen the valve they might just be a hair tight

could be but usally you will hear a backfire through the carb or exhaust if this is the case.
 
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